Doing my front brakes, just confirmation on putting jacking points.

 

It looks like the car jack is actually on the jacking point.
The jack stand is on the rear bushing for the lower control arm. I'm not sure that's the best place...maybe a better place would be the frame rail itself, it's definitely way stronger.
The frame rail, in the second pic, would the rail about an inch above the green wire for the air/fuel ratio sensor (top right area of the pic).

 

Awesome thanks man
now having a hellacious time getting these nuts off...
The back of caliber

 

Once you break them loose then they come out easy...just gotta crack them free though. Long wrench or breaker bar will work.

 

Break in period is freaking me out, grinding sound wow. I left one shimmy in, thinking of taking it out

 

Um...there shouldn't be any grinding noise. And any shims that were installed should be put back exactly where they were with none being omitted. Everything is in there for a purpose.

If you're not sure, I highly recommend taking it to a shop. The grinding is not a good sign at all.

 

everything worked out ok, got on the horn with akebono rep and told me to take off the shims, that it comes with one already. booooom quiet drives normal

Thanks Sasnuke, really appreciate it

 

good to hear its normal, some aftermarket pads come already installed with shims. but i prefer using oem shims.

 

Didn't realize you were putting on aftermarket pads. Akebono is a great choice.
And yeah, if the pads came with shims then you won't need the OEM ones.
Personally I prefer the OEM shims as many of the aftermarket pads come with stick-on shims.
The downside to stick on shims is that at some point they may become unstuck...then the question is, where do they go? You don't want to know the answer.

 

Wait i'm confused,
You don't have to take the caliper off the hub to change brake pads normally

 

He must have the IS250 if he's removing caliper to change pads. on the 350, they're four piston calipers and easily removable without removing the caliper.

OP, you should invest in a low profile 3.5 ton jack for your car if you're going to maintenance. reason is because you jack up the car from its frame rail then use the jack points to set the car on jack stand. Your emergency scissor jack is on the jack point which where the jack stand would be.

when working on this car, I usually jack up the rear end from the differential, set the two jack stand on the rear jack points, then jack up the car from either the front driver or passenger side frame rail and jack it up, the car will lift off of all four tires. From here, you can set the two front jack stand to their jack points. Always place jack stands when working under the car, never just rely on scissor jack or jack to hold up the car.

 

The front middle jacking point is just past the under splash guard but before the oil pan. DO NOT jack by the oil pan. There is a small indented circle at the spot. But you should not be using a jackstand there. Once lifted, place jackstands at the marked locations just inside of the side skirts (there are two indents on the frame when the jack should be placed.. do NOT jack directly under the side skirts).

The rear jacking point is the silver differential housing.

Use rubber top jacks or a clothe to prevent scratches on all jacking points.

Always use wheel chucks on the opposite wheels your jacking. The manual actually says to put the car in neutral .. which could make the car roll, but will prevent tranny damage. Be safe!

 

 

I have no idea lol. I thought I only went back 1 maybe 2 pages? Either way, people still find these threads through site and searches, so it's good to make sure the answers are there.

 

Just saw this old thread. Hope nobody is jacking by the control arm bushing bracket as appears to be shown in the photos on the first page. Nope don't do that.

I'm not familiar with 100% of the jacking points on the car right this moment ( have to go back out and look) but at the very least I know of the reinforced pinch welds at the four corners (sides) of the car, the rear subframe, or if I recall correctly, the front center jack nub (I have to look at that one again but I vaguely remember using it). Yes you can likely use any hard point under the car in a pinch but you really have to be careful what you use or you risk damaging something. aluminum is not meant for lifting or supporting.

also -- Do not ever use the "Rails" or the boxed section of the unibody which look like "frame rails." yes the car would go in an upward direction but it's relatively soft and not designed for that. It's just boxed, sometimes double or triple layered sheet metal. It's meant to be strong as an overall package, not in an immediate 3" square area lifting 3,600 lbs. you risk bending it particularly depending on how your setup is. Not stable.