Flooring the RCF causes premature breakdown?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 431
Likes: 47
From: Pennsylvania
Again, this is a really dumb thread, one of the dumbest I have seen on this site and now it has really sunk even lower with you two guys beating your chests. Original question was silly and most of the responses have been silly
To the OP - Do some research. The Lexus F Line was meant to be driven not coddled. However it was not meant to be abused. The F also responds well to bolt on mods, both in the engine and handling pieces. Oil and gasoline, again do some research. Much has been written on this site about those products. Personally I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10W/30 (I live in a hot climate). Toyota oil filters and as far as gasoline is concerned, I try to switch it up but I always use only Top Tier Fuel.
Lou
To the OP - Do some research. The Lexus F Line was meant to be driven not coddled. However it was not meant to be abused. The F also responds well to bolt on mods, both in the engine and handling pieces. Oil and gasoline, again do some research. Much has been written on this site about those products. Personally I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10W/30 (I live in a hot climate). Toyota oil filters and as far as gasoline is concerned, I try to switch it up but I always use only Top Tier Fuel.
Lou
Last edited by Spam89; Jun 17, 2017 at 12:56 PM.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 98
From: California
doug, you're an idiot when Lexus 3GT calls you to consult on their engine issues, then you'll have some ground. The difference between a good oil and a bad oil is not the engine blowing up, it's about power. A good oil will seal the ring cylinder interface improving power and response as well as other factors like fuel economy and wear. You can drive this thing on **** fuel and oil and it will probably run for a long long time. But when your engine starts to rack up miles, feeding it garbage is going to rob its power over time. Doug strikes me like the guys who go and eat MCD and never bother to look at their waist size. Still alive but not living a healthy life. Lol
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 627
Likes: 114
From: Ohio
Daniel has an extensive thread on here about oil and his oil testing. He didnt read his knowledge on the internet he has created it with actual testing and posted the results for us all. I will be switching to the low ash rli oil in my next oil change and looking to reep the benefits as I floor my rcf at least 3 times a day 
Lead Lap
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 435
Likes: 122
From: NY
serious issues? No I just can't stand when a guy comes on a forum and answers a question based on pure BS speculation, and then further insults an industry professional who has devoted hundreds of hours on his own time to finding out what works best on these cars and so forth. You've also poked at me before and I just don't get it, it's not funny because I take these matters seriously. This is someone's engine. For you it may be nothing but a toy, but I treat every matter as life or death. Next time you get on a United 747, think about the guy who is working round the clock looking at oil to determine if an immenient failure on that plane's turbine, hydraulic landing gear and APU's powering the cockpit is going to take out 400 lives. When a team has a $350,000 engine and careers will be made or lost on a win or an engine failure, it is someone's life on the line and serious $$$$. Every engine is treated as life or death, it is not remotely funny for me. I bring that element of professionalism in everything I do, free or paid, I don't play games.
Doug, sorry about that, I get heated sometimes. Oh I've seen the older crowd lift heavier weights! I would probably shatter trying to lift your weights!
I am going to answer this question and address some issues for you, that no one else in the industry has done. Not even Toyota/Lexus, which is why 3GT called me to help out with some issues they've been having.
There is a massive difference between Shell fuel and Costco/generic fuel. As Lou mentioned, you'll be ok with top tier fuel, but the UOA confirm Shell's V-Power outperforms in many areas over BP/Exxon, only better fuel is coming from Ignite/VP Racing.
This is the order I use, 1. Shell, 2. BP, 3. Exxon., 4. I just don't drive my car in that area(lol jk).
1. RLI BioSyn 2. Amsoil SS/Motul 300V 3. M1EP/Pennzoil UP/Redline (the last are readily available in all areas)
Everytime you turn on your RC F, you're wearing the engine. Flooring it wears the engine more, ensuring you have a quality oil, protects your engine internals and rather than wearing, the internals stay lubricated allowing you to tap that peak power, time and time again, without needlessly wearing the engine. RLI's ability to combat wear is due to the incredibly high Viscosity Index and the plant esters ability to cling to the metal better than even Motul and Amsoil, ensuring lubrication at 7,300 rpms. The interesting part of my dyno testing is that the lines were identical until 6,200rpms. That is where the RLI maintained a flat line and increased power, while the two others oils jumped slightly up and down. And that's where a high VI makes the difference, it's when you hit that 7,000 that it all makes a difference.
In my own RC F, the RLI went an extra 1,400 miles over M1, had a track day in there and it had 35% less wear. The ring seal also improved greatly as did the combustion efficiency. I want my RC F to hit 400 horse at 20K and as long as it can keep going. A crappier oil will just reduce my power over time, the engine will likely continue to run for as long as I desire. It's about preserving the power that you should be after.
Don't run a 10W30 on this engine unless you're at the track, as you will wear this engine more, you should really run a 5W30 or a 0W20 if you use this as a daily with some flooring here and there.
Doug, sorry about that, I get heated sometimes. Oh I've seen the older crowd lift heavier weights! I would probably shatter trying to lift your weights!
I am going to answer this question and address some issues for you, that no one else in the industry has done. Not even Toyota/Lexus, which is why 3GT called me to help out with some issues they've been having.
There is a massive difference between Shell fuel and Costco/generic fuel. As Lou mentioned, you'll be ok with top tier fuel, but the UOA confirm Shell's V-Power outperforms in many areas over BP/Exxon, only better fuel is coming from Ignite/VP Racing.
This is the order I use, 1. Shell, 2. BP, 3. Exxon., 4. I just don't drive my car in that area(lol jk).
1. RLI BioSyn 2. Amsoil SS/Motul 300V 3. M1EP/Pennzoil UP/Redline (the last are readily available in all areas)
Everytime you turn on your RC F, you're wearing the engine. Flooring it wears the engine more, ensuring you have a quality oil, protects your engine internals and rather than wearing, the internals stay lubricated allowing you to tap that peak power, time and time again, without needlessly wearing the engine. RLI's ability to combat wear is due to the incredibly high Viscosity Index and the plant esters ability to cling to the metal better than even Motul and Amsoil, ensuring lubrication at 7,300 rpms. The interesting part of my dyno testing is that the lines were identical until 6,200rpms. That is where the RLI maintained a flat line and increased power, while the two others oils jumped slightly up and down. And that's where a high VI makes the difference, it's when you hit that 7,000 that it all makes a difference.
In my own RC F, the RLI went an extra 1,400 miles over M1, had a track day in there and it had 35% less wear. The ring seal also improved greatly as did the combustion efficiency. I want my RC F to hit 400 horse at 20K and as long as it can keep going. A crappier oil will just reduce my power over time, the engine will likely continue to run for as long as I desire. It's about preserving the power that you should be after.
Don't run a 10W30 on this engine unless you're at the track, as you will wear this engine more, you should really run a 5W30 or a 0W20 if you use this as a daily with some flooring here and there.
Pole Position
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,634
Likes: 256
From: CA
Thanks for the response. The initial question might be dumb for you but for me, it is important. No need to state or pinpoint out that this thread or that thread is irrelevant or dumb. , anwsersI did a lot of research but there is a limited amount of thread on the RCF with many different points of views. Wanted answers because I do not know much about oil, gas, and cars in general. Thanks for the advice and no question is stupid, remember that =)
So, go ahead ASK ANY QUESTIONS. This forum should WELCOME ANY QUESTIONS.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 431
Likes: 47
From: Pennsylvania
serious issues? No I just can't stand when a guy comes on a forum and answers a question based on pure BS speculation, and then further insults an industry professional who has devoted hundreds of hours on his own time to finding out what works best on these cars and so forth. You've also poked at me before and I just don't get it, it's not funny because I take these matters seriously. This is someone's engine. For you it may be nothing but a toy, but I treat every matter as life or death. Next time you get on a United 747, think about the guy who is working round the clock looking at oil to determine if an immenient failure on that plane's turbine, hydraulic landing gear and APU's powering the cockpit is going to take out 400 lives. When a team has a $350,000 engine and careers will be made or lost on a win or an engine failure, it is someone's life on the line and serious $$$$. Every engine is treated as life or death, it is not remotely funny for me. I bring that element of professionalism in everything I do, free or paid, I don't play games.
Doug, sorry about that, I get heated sometimes. Oh I've seen the older crowd lift heavier weights! I would probably shatter trying to lift your weights!
I am going to answer this question and address some issues for you, that no one else in the industry has done. Not even Toyota/Lexus, which is why 3GT called me to help out with some issues they've been having.
There is a massive difference between Shell fuel and Costco/generic fuel. As Lou mentioned, you'll be ok with top tier fuel, but the UOA confirm Shell's V-Power outperforms in many areas over BP/Exxon, only better fuel is coming from Ignite/VP Racing.
This is the order I use, 1. Shell, 2. BP, 3. Exxon., 4. I just don't drive my car in that area(lol jk).
1. RLI BioSyn 2. Amsoil SS/Motul 300V 3. M1EP/Pennzoil UP/Redline (the last are readily available in all areas)
Everytime you turn on your RC F, you're wearing the engine. Flooring it wears the engine more, ensuring you have a quality oil, protects your engine internals and rather than wearing, the internals stay lubricated allowing you to tap that peak power, time and time again, without needlessly wearing the engine. RLI's ability to combat wear is due to the incredibly high Viscosity Index and the plant esters ability to cling to the metal better than even Motul and Amsoil, ensuring lubrication at 7,300 rpms. The interesting part of my dyno testing is that the lines were identical until 6,200rpms. That is where the RLI maintained a flat line and increased power, while the two others oils jumped slightly up and down. And that's where a high VI makes the difference, it's when you hit that 7,000 that it all makes a difference.
In my own RC F, the RLI went an extra 1,400 miles over M1, had a track day in there and it had 35% less wear. The ring seal also improved greatly as did the combustion efficiency. I want my RC F to hit 400 horse at 20K and as long as it can keep going. A crappier oil will just reduce my power over time, the engine will likely continue to run for as long as I desire. It's about preserving the power that you should be after.
Don't run a 10W30 on this engine unless you're at the track, as you will wear this engine more, you should really run a 5W30 or a 0W20 if you use this as a daily with some flooring here and there.
Doug, sorry about that, I get heated sometimes. Oh I've seen the older crowd lift heavier weights! I would probably shatter trying to lift your weights!
I am going to answer this question and address some issues for you, that no one else in the industry has done. Not even Toyota/Lexus, which is why 3GT called me to help out with some issues they've been having.
There is a massive difference between Shell fuel and Costco/generic fuel. As Lou mentioned, you'll be ok with top tier fuel, but the UOA confirm Shell's V-Power outperforms in many areas over BP/Exxon, only better fuel is coming from Ignite/VP Racing.
This is the order I use, 1. Shell, 2. BP, 3. Exxon., 4. I just don't drive my car in that area(lol jk).
1. RLI BioSyn 2. Amsoil SS/Motul 300V 3. M1EP/Pennzoil UP/Redline (the last are readily available in all areas)
Everytime you turn on your RC F, you're wearing the engine. Flooring it wears the engine more, ensuring you have a quality oil, protects your engine internals and rather than wearing, the internals stay lubricated allowing you to tap that peak power, time and time again, without needlessly wearing the engine. RLI's ability to combat wear is due to the incredibly high Viscosity Index and the plant esters ability to cling to the metal better than even Motul and Amsoil, ensuring lubrication at 7,300 rpms. The interesting part of my dyno testing is that the lines were identical until 6,200rpms. That is where the RLI maintained a flat line and increased power, while the two others oils jumped slightly up and down. And that's where a high VI makes the difference, it's when you hit that 7,000 that it all makes a difference.
In my own RC F, the RLI went an extra 1,400 miles over M1, had a track day in there and it had 35% less wear. The ring seal also improved greatly as did the combustion efficiency. I want my RC F to hit 400 horse at 20K and as long as it can keep going. A crappier oil will just reduce my power over time, the engine will likely continue to run for as long as I desire. It's about preserving the power that you should be after.
Don't run a 10W30 on this engine unless you're at the track, as you will wear this engine more, you should really run a 5W30 or a 0W20 if you use this as a daily with some flooring here and there.
http://renewablelube.com/store/index...product_id=221
This is and should be the right one? Thanks!
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Pole Position
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,634
Likes: 256
From: CA
danielTRLK, I personally welcome your expertise with your real world experiences and hard SCIENTIFIC DATA to back it up. You are a scientist in my opinion whereas that other person is not. You don't speculate just randomly based on pure BS as that other person with some FLAWED interpretations with some reading on the WWW.
The likelihood of that other person keeping his "nice EXPENSIVE cars" beyond the OEM warranty is ABSOLUTELY ZERO AS HE HAD DEMONSTRATED. Likely all are leased and as such a business expense deduction (nothing against leasing if it works better for someone). So he will just use and abuse for the duration of the lease and return it. You are so true on the engine power loss over time if one does not used the right oil or scheduled maintenance.
I've always wondered why Toyota/Lexus DID NOT ALLOW TOTAL BURN OUTS during their "press release test drives"?
Why does some of the European brands (BMW, for example) tend to have even more major breakdowns soon after warranty almost like clockwork?
Why is it important for someone buying used to look into the "black box" in a sports car (GTR, for example) and see how many times "launch control" were used and at what stages of it's life cycle? Also to get a feel on how the car was treated?
I think the answer (as in ALL things mechanical with moving parts) is wear a tear which thus far no one can escape from this FACT. It's just a matter of how much and how fast the wear and tear is as time goes on. Maybe in the future some SCIENTISTS will finalize an engine with some sort of magnetic parts with "no contact points" and hence eliminate the wear and tear issue? Maybe Toyota/Lexus is already on this? I don't think this will happen anytime soon as the big oil will not like it since this design will drastically reduced engine oil use/lubricant use.
Ultimately people on this forum will decide what to use/do/believe with what they read here. The SMART ones will NOT be fooled.
The likelihood of that other person keeping his "nice EXPENSIVE cars" beyond the OEM warranty is ABSOLUTELY ZERO AS HE HAD DEMONSTRATED. Likely all are leased and as such a business expense deduction (nothing against leasing if it works better for someone). So he will just use and abuse for the duration of the lease and return it. You are so true on the engine power loss over time if one does not used the right oil or scheduled maintenance.
I've always wondered why Toyota/Lexus DID NOT ALLOW TOTAL BURN OUTS during their "press release test drives"?
Why does some of the European brands (BMW, for example) tend to have even more major breakdowns soon after warranty almost like clockwork?
Why is it important for someone buying used to look into the "black box" in a sports car (GTR, for example) and see how many times "launch control" were used and at what stages of it's life cycle? Also to get a feel on how the car was treated?
I think the answer (as in ALL things mechanical with moving parts) is wear a tear which thus far no one can escape from this FACT. It's just a matter of how much and how fast the wear and tear is as time goes on. Maybe in the future some SCIENTISTS will finalize an engine with some sort of magnetic parts with "no contact points" and hence eliminate the wear and tear issue? Maybe Toyota/Lexus is already on this? I don't think this will happen anytime soon as the big oil will not like it since this design will drastically reduced engine oil use/lubricant use.
Ultimately people on this forum will decide what to use/do/believe with what they read here. The SMART ones will NOT be fooled.
serious issues? No I just can't stand when a guy comes on a forum and answers a question based on pure BS speculation, and then further insults an industry professional who has devoted hundreds of hours on his own time to finding out what works best on these cars and so forth. You've also poked at me before and I just don't get it, it's not funny because I take these matters seriously. This is someone's engine. For you it may be nothing but a toy, but I treat every matter as life or death. Next time you get on a United 747, think about the guy who is working round the clock looking at oil to determine if an immenient failure on that plane's turbine, hydraulic landing gear and APU's powering the cockpit is going to take out 400 lives. When a team has a $350,000 engine and careers will be made or lost on a win or an engine failure, it is someone's life on the line and serious $$$$. Every engine is treated as life or death, it is not remotely funny for me. I bring that element of professionalism in everything I do, free or paid, I don't play games.
Doug, sorry about that, I get heated sometimes. Oh I've seen the older crowd lift heavier weights! I would probably shatter trying to lift your weights!
I am going to answer this question and address some issues for you, that no one else in the industry has done. Not even Toyota/Lexus, which is why 3GT called me to help out with some issues they've been having.
There is a massive difference between Shell fuel and Costco/generic fuel. As Lou mentioned, you'll be ok with top tier fuel, but the UOA confirm Shell's V-Power outperforms in many areas over BP/Exxon, only better fuel is coming from Ignite/VP Racing.
This is the order I use, 1. Shell, 2. BP, 3. Exxon., 4. I just don't drive my car in that area(lol jk).
1. RLI BioSyn 2. Amsoil SS/Motul 300V 3. M1EP/Pennzoil UP/Redline (the last are readily available in all areas)
Everytime you turn on your RC F, you're wearing the engine. Flooring it wears the engine more, ensuring you have a quality oil, protects your engine internals and rather than wearing, the internals stay lubricated allowing you to tap that peak power, time and time again, without needlessly wearing the engine. RLI's ability to combat wear is due to the incredibly high Viscosity Index and the plant esters ability to cling to the metal better than even Motul and Amsoil, ensuring lubrication at 7,300 rpms. The interesting part of my dyno testing is that the lines were identical until 6,200rpms. That is where the RLI maintained a flat line and increased power, while the two others oils jumped slightly up and down. And that's where a high VI makes the difference, it's when you hit that 7,000 that it all makes a difference.
In my own RC F, the RLI went an extra 1,400 miles over M1, had a track day in there and it had 35% less wear. The ring seal also improved greatly as did the combustion efficiency. I want my RC F to hit 400 horse at 20K and as long as it can keep going. A crappier oil will just reduce my power over time, the engine will likely continue to run for as long as I desire. It's about preserving the power that you should be after.
Don't run a 10W30 on this engine unless you're at the track, as you will wear this engine more, you should really run a 5W30 or a 0W20 if you use this as a daily with some flooring here and there.
Doug, sorry about that, I get heated sometimes. Oh I've seen the older crowd lift heavier weights! I would probably shatter trying to lift your weights!
I am going to answer this question and address some issues for you, that no one else in the industry has done. Not even Toyota/Lexus, which is why 3GT called me to help out with some issues they've been having.
There is a massive difference between Shell fuel and Costco/generic fuel. As Lou mentioned, you'll be ok with top tier fuel, but the UOA confirm Shell's V-Power outperforms in many areas over BP/Exxon, only better fuel is coming from Ignite/VP Racing.
This is the order I use, 1. Shell, 2. BP, 3. Exxon., 4. I just don't drive my car in that area(lol jk).
1. RLI BioSyn 2. Amsoil SS/Motul 300V 3. M1EP/Pennzoil UP/Redline (the last are readily available in all areas)
Everytime you turn on your RC F, you're wearing the engine. Flooring it wears the engine more, ensuring you have a quality oil, protects your engine internals and rather than wearing, the internals stay lubricated allowing you to tap that peak power, time and time again, without needlessly wearing the engine. RLI's ability to combat wear is due to the incredibly high Viscosity Index and the plant esters ability to cling to the metal better than even Motul and Amsoil, ensuring lubrication at 7,300 rpms. The interesting part of my dyno testing is that the lines were identical until 6,200rpms. That is where the RLI maintained a flat line and increased power, while the two others oils jumped slightly up and down. And that's where a high VI makes the difference, it's when you hit that 7,000 that it all makes a difference.
In my own RC F, the RLI went an extra 1,400 miles over M1, had a track day in there and it had 35% less wear. The ring seal also improved greatly as did the combustion efficiency. I want my RC F to hit 400 horse at 20K and as long as it can keep going. A crappier oil will just reduce my power over time, the engine will likely continue to run for as long as I desire. It's about preserving the power that you should be after.
Don't run a 10W30 on this engine unless you're at the track, as you will wear this engine more, you should really run a 5W30 or a 0W20 if you use this as a daily with some flooring here and there.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 407
Likes: 38
From: SC
Amazon carries the entire Renewable-Lubricant line:
Because I have some home inventory of M1 in my garage, I'm thinking about purchasing the RL Booster Pack. Daniel, what is your thoughts on this:
Finally, I agree with 100% on Shell gas. However, it should be noted as someone posted in another thread, the quality/age of the station is just as if not MORE important than the gas brand.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rc-...ml#post9898851
Personally, I'll fill-up at any new/modern top tier station rather than stop at a 20 y/o Shell.
Lead Lap
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 435
Likes: 122
From: NY
Their PCMO SHP 0W20 is a great formula as well. M1EP is also a good formula in the 0W20, if the RLI proves to be too pricey or out of reach.
I stay away from additives for the most part. Many studies have proven short term benefits at the cost of long term effects. A lot of the additives chew away at the metal they're supposed to be protecting over time. I've never tried it, so it doesn't mean it can't be helpful, but I don't want to be the test dummy to try it, lol.
Use UOA to confirm any product however as things that work or don't work in theory don't always play out in reality, and I have not tested every product on the market. M1 is not a bad formula, rather there is better out there for similar $ including what I consider the big brother "M1EP".
I think a lot of people on this forum are very keen on keeping their vehicles in top shape, after all, most of us want to hit redline repeatly without suffering a power loss over time for doing so. I can't say why, at least not yet, but for this week (from 6/18/2017 between 4:30PMCST on 6/23/2017) I can offer everyone who asks a free oil analysis kit. You can use this to confirm wear, test blackstone or just pee in a cup and see if you're made of iron. Just e-mail me, daniel@tribologik.com. I need some kind of name, not a username, an address to ship to, an e-mail address and a phone number. The free samples do not have to be returned within any time frame. Once they are shipped out, they are good for life, keep them in your garage or where ever. Consider it a father's day gift for everyone on CL(I always think Craigslist is e-mailing me lol).
Daniel Mackey
123 Great Street
Schaumburg, Il. 60173
Daniel@yahoo.com
630-000-1234
I stay away from additives for the most part. Many studies have proven short term benefits at the cost of long term effects. A lot of the additives chew away at the metal they're supposed to be protecting over time. I've never tried it, so it doesn't mean it can't be helpful, but I don't want to be the test dummy to try it, lol.
Use UOA to confirm any product however as things that work or don't work in theory don't always play out in reality, and I have not tested every product on the market. M1 is not a bad formula, rather there is better out there for similar $ including what I consider the big brother "M1EP".
I think a lot of people on this forum are very keen on keeping their vehicles in top shape, after all, most of us want to hit redline repeatly without suffering a power loss over time for doing so. I can't say why, at least not yet, but for this week (from 6/18/2017 between 4:30PMCST on 6/23/2017) I can offer everyone who asks a free oil analysis kit. You can use this to confirm wear, test blackstone or just pee in a cup and see if you're made of iron. Just e-mail me, daniel@tribologik.com. I need some kind of name, not a username, an address to ship to, an e-mail address and a phone number. The free samples do not have to be returned within any time frame. Once they are shipped out, they are good for life, keep them in your garage or where ever. Consider it a father's day gift for everyone on CL(I always think Craigslist is e-mailing me lol).
Daniel Mackey
123 Great Street
Schaumburg, Il. 60173
Daniel@yahoo.com
630-000-1234
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 627
Likes: 114
From: Ohio
This is the link Dan provided direct from RLI .
http://renewablelube.com/store/index...product_id=221
http://renewablelube.com/store/index...product_id=221
Last edited by GetKinetic; Jun 19, 2017 at 01:16 AM.
Pole Position
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,634
Likes: 256
From: CA
Pole Position
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,634
Likes: 256
From: CA
The Amazon link for the RLL does not work.
There is a RLL on Amazon for a different one at $47:
http://http://a.co/e5QBOlp
Renewable Lubricants Bio-SynXtra Super High Performance Motor Oil, 1 Gallon Jug
Renewable Lubricants
Link: http://a.co/e5QBOlp
Versus:
The RLL own website for $31 ??? IDK if these two are the same or diffeent?
http://renewablelube.com/store/index...product_id=221
There is a RLL on Amazon for a different one at $47:
http://http://a.co/e5QBOlp
Renewable Lubricants Bio-SynXtra Super High Performance Motor Oil, 1 Gallon Jug
Renewable Lubricants
Link: http://a.co/e5QBOlp
Versus:
The RLL own website for $31 ??? IDK if these two are the same or diffeent?
http://renewablelube.com/store/index...product_id=221
Bio-SynXtra HDMO 5W30 Low Ash (1 Gallon Jug)
- Product Code: 85333
- Availability: In Stock
$31.85
Daniel, thank you for some very valuable info. I did not know about low ash. Seems extremely important! From what I've garnered, the 0W-20 is not HD which is what I may start using.
Amazon carries the entire Renewable-Lubricant line:
https://www.amazon.com/Renewable-Lub...ble+Lubricants
Because I have some home inventory of M1 in my garage, I'm thinking about purchasing the RL Booster Pack. Daniel, what is your thoughts on this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0N4KG4...ing=UTF8&psc=1
Finally, I agree with 100% on Shell gas. However, it should be noted as someone posted in another thread, the quality/age of the station is just as if not MORE important than the gas brand.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rc-...ml#post9898851
Personally, I'll fill-up at any new/modern top tier station rather than stop at a 20 y/o Shell.
Amazon carries the entire Renewable-Lubricant line:
https://www.amazon.com/Renewable-Lub...ble+Lubricants
Because I have some home inventory of M1 in my garage, I'm thinking about purchasing the RL Booster Pack. Daniel, what is your thoughts on this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0N4KG4...ing=UTF8&psc=1
Finally, I agree with 100% on Shell gas. However, it should be noted as someone posted in another thread, the quality/age of the station is just as if not MORE important than the gas brand.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rc-...ml#post9898851
Personally, I'll fill-up at any new/modern top tier station rather than stop at a 20 y/o Shell.
Lead Lap
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 435
Likes: 122
From: NY
Amazon is pricier because they include the shipping. I buy direct from RLI as it's slightly cheaper.
85333, is what you want in the RC F, 85093 is the 0W20 formula if you just daily drive gently. I am a big fan of the M1EP 0W20 formula, does well in this engine, very well for an off the shelf lubricant if you can't afford the RLI.
Renewable Lubricants is having a 10% off sale, CREATED10 is the promo code to use, good until August 1,2017.
85333, is what you want in the RC F, 85093 is the 0W20 formula if you just daily drive gently. I am a big fan of the M1EP 0W20 formula, does well in this engine, very well for an off the shelf lubricant if you can't afford the RLI.
Renewable Lubricants is having a 10% off sale, CREATED10 is the promo code to use, good until August 1,2017.