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Yep I checked that as well. It has power going through it when I checked with my multi meter at both pins. I even touched it while my dad turned on the engine and felt the clicking on the relay.
That's strange. If you are receiving power at the DRL NO 2 relay, and it's clicking closed as it should, then you should be getting power out of the DRL NO 2 relay (please do check that you are getting 12V at the white wire with red stripe at the relay). And if you are getting 12V out from the relay, then the white with red wire goes straight to the H-LP UPR fuses, where you should be getting power but you say you are not getting power. So either you are not getting 12V out of the DRL NO 2 relay, or the white with red wire is broken or a connector is undone. Please check these things and report back.
Leon. That's exactly why I bought the DRL no.2 relay new from Toyota since I figured according to the manual that it then feeds directly to the H-LP UPR fuses after power comes from DRL no. 2 fuse. DRL no. 2 fuse has power, but DRL no. 1 doesn't. I figured even though my used relay was clicking, it did not necessarily mean it was 100% functional so I tried new one, but no luck. I'm not sure where those wires are that you mention. I just removed the relay out and checked two pins where the relay plugged in and they read 14.34 volts each. Should power be going through either side of the DRL relay harness because none is when I checked each pin.
I figured out why my battery light has been on this whole time while both the battery and alternator has been working at 100%. I ordered and was replacing my alternator today with a re manufactured Denso from Rock Auto when I removed the cover to the connector. One of the wires was broken at the connector and not connected. Hopefully this helps another fellow club lexus member.
Sorry, I'm running out of ideas. If the DRL Relay NO 2 is operational (i.e. clicking), and supplying voltage at terminal 2, then the only way to NOT be getting voltage at the H-LP UPR fuses is if the wiring between the two is bad (it's the white with red wire). The IS thread did remind me that connections and wires can go bad, you might want to double check them. In addition, it reminded me of one of the most tricky electrical issues I had years ago, when I was getting voltage where I should, but the device was still not working. That's when I learned that getting 12V at a connection did not guarantee that enough current can flow through the wires and connections to actually power anything. I got just enough current to have the multimeter read 12V, but not enough current to power the device. I had to replace some corroded wiring to get things to work properly again. So this may apply in your case too. I guess the next thing to try is to start jumpering across suspect devices or connections, and seeing if the DRL starts working. Maybe start with supplying battery voltage directly to the H-LP UPR fuse and seeing if that turns them on, and if so, then start working your way backwards. If you PM me your email address, I can send you the wiring diagram and you can work through it one device at a time.
Leon,
I found the issue when I was replacing my alternator. There was one wire that was not connected to the alternator connector clip. I believe this to be the ground wire possibly, but this wire caused my battery light to show up as well as my drls not to turn on anymore. I think my mechanic or a previous body shop broke it originally and wrapped the wire to the pin to get it working temporarily until I drove it. :/ It took me a week to get a new connector, seals, and open barrel connector to re crimp it and have it installed. Thanks a lot for helping me out and hope this helps another CL member.
[QUOTE=Agent$mith;9859699]Leon,
I found the issue when I was replacing my alternator. There was one wire that was not connected to the alternator connector clip. I believe this to be the ground wire possibly/QUOTE]
Excellent detective work Johnny! That is indeed a ground wire, and as we deduced earlier by process of elimination, your issue pretty much had to be in wiring or connections, not in any of the devices (relays). So congrats on finding the issue. I think wiring problems re always harder to find than device issues, you can't just "part swap" and see if that fixes it. Anyway, well done!
