It is real simple. Thought it would be a lot harder. I cleaned out my MAF and TB the other day. Hardest part I would say is the TB since you have to use a long stick or flat head with a soft cloth at the end to clean deep inside. I use TB and Air filter cleaner by STP and CRC MAF. Here are the two pics of the products I bought both from autozone.



and

 

same 2 products i bought from them and used. results are great afterwards

 

CRC works wonders... great product..

 

rebuilding and cleaning the T/B will increase gas mileage and also throttle response in some cases... But should only clean the MAF sensor with Alcohol, the sensor is very sensitive and some cleaners leave a film that attracts dirt and grim....

 

Im sticking with CRC maf cleaner. Aint trying to apply Alcohol. The Spray works the best.

 

Is this correct?

1. Disconnect battery
2. Disconnect MAF
3. Clean MAF with CRC
4. Replace MAF
5. Replace battery.

 

Yes, that is correct. While your at it might as well clean the throttle body too.

 

What kind of air flow sensor do GS 300's have because I bought the CRC stuff and it said not to use on Karman Vortex sensors. It specifically said supras and most Lexus vehicles. I found literature that said 2jz-ge and 1uz-fe's have it, I'm sure they were referring to gen I ge's. I don't know if Lexus changed it for gen II engines. JeffT where are you?

 

I believe we have hotwire Sensor. I could be wrong. I've been using the CRC on my GS3 MAF Sensor w/o any problems. Just make sure you let it air dry for a few mins.

 

So I decided to clean my MAF & TB but the results do not appear to be good. I bought CRC MAF cleaner also CRC TB cleaner for the job. I started by removing the negative battery cable and the 20 amp fuse to reset the ECU while I cleaned. I remove the screws and unloosen clamps as mentioned in the DIY. I then unscrew and remove the MAF sensor and sprayed it about three times. I did not drown it in fluid but just did 3 small quick sprays and allowed it to air dry. For the TB, I used the TB cleaner and sprayed it it on the cotton towel and then wiped inside of it. I also sprayed a little bit of it inside on the metal flap twice to remove additional gunk and then wiped with the towel. After making sure all was dry, I installed everything back and started the car. Immediately I noticed a difference in how the car felt during idle. I've always had a smooth idle but now it is rough. I figure I give it a few minutes but that didn't help. So I take it for a spin and the rough idle continued. Even at a red light with my foot on the brake, the car felt rough. I drove on regular streets and also went on the highway for a total of about 15 minutes. The car seems to accelerate much quicker which may be the result of the ecu being reset. A little too late now but I'll double check everything tomorrow to make sure I didn't miss anything. I read on another thread that car will need to get "accustomed" after the cleaning I did. Just want to know if anyone experienced this after cleaning those parts and what was done to resolve it. Any tips would be helpful.

 

You'll just have to allow your car some time, probably a couple more days. After being reset, the ECU needs to "re-learn" everything. When I had my Cobra, I had hi-flow cats on the car and it failed smog (emissions portion) by a bit. I installed the stock crossover pipe and reset the ECU. The car did drive differently. I brought it back 2 days later to have it re-smogged but I failed the functionality part of the smog test since the sensors were reset and the car didn't "re-learn" and adjust yet.

 

Cars with Electronic Throttle Control (Drive-by-wire) should not be cleaned with any types solvents at all. You will mess up the electrical system and will cause the car to go into limp mode as it runs rough as stated above.

I believe the best way to clean it would be just wipe it clean with a clean rag and that's it.

 

Does 2G GS300s have this ECT?

 

I reset the ECU several times already in the past but never got this rough idle. In actuality, it's more of a harsh vibration that steadily goes through the car. My RPM while idle is at 1.5. I put the car in reverse and then engaged my parking brake to check under the hood. The engine does not even vibrate or shake at all. It appears to be running VERY smooth. Mind you no CEL yet to this point. I didn't mention this part earlier but now my focus has now shifted to my front strut bar that I put in that same day I'll let it stay as is for a few more days and then remove the stb out to see if this has something to do with it. Mind you while on the highway I was pushing hard at times doing 80-90 to test things out and my fuel gauge appears to not have budged much after the cleaning. For now at least it appears something good may have come out of this cleaning I did.

I hope I don't fall in this category but I've seen little to hardly anyone here mentioning that they screwed up there MAF by using the CRC cleaner.

 

Let's hope you don't have broken fuel gauge needle from all that vibration! If I can recall correctly, the last time I had cleaned the MAF and throttle body and reset the ECU, the GS did drive a bit differently at first but I definitely did not experience any rough idle or vibration. When I had the CEL pop up months ago, the car did idle very high and the transmission was very abrupt/clunky when shifting from P to D or P to R. I would hear/feel a clunk when shifting between gears. You might want to use an OBDII scanning tool to see if you can pull any codes.