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I bought a ES300 (last year (I think ) or the year before). The odometer was changed before us, but we don't know at what mileage. I haven't had issues with it and did the regular routine of oil changes and mechanicals. We did have to replace the transmission hose after it burst (not sure if it just randomly or from hitting a concrete stopper [before timing belt]). So new transmission fluid goes in. A timing belt kit a few months ago, [September-December 2017]) Recently last few months I noticed that the transmission is a little laggy when first driven after a cold start. I usually wait for the car thermostat to hit the middle before driving, (I know that's only for the coolant, not transmission fluid temp). I will be driving on the on ramp and the transmission will take a few seconds while at 3-K rpm to shift to the next gear, but after driving long enough it doesn't do that again. 3 weeks ago the car just shut down on the highway in the morning when I was going to class. Check engine light and trac-off light were dimming. I pulled over, car wouldn't start, called parents. Waited few minutes and the car started up, pulled out and then car shut off again, and pulled over. I had the car towed to my dad's shop. It sounded like the fuel pump died. So we replaced that. I also had the A/F O2 sensor bank 1 code, so I replaced that also (did bank-2 same month as the transmission hose), dad did the test-drive and it was fine. In that same evening, we went to fill up the gas tank, and on leaving the gas station, the car struggled to shift to second gear. We went back to the shop (literally down the street). I scanned it and these two codes came up:
P0753 and P0758.
I know these are for the Shift Solenoid A and Solenoid B. But my concern is I don't know how many "Actual" mileage are in this car yet alone transmission. I read on here that if the magnets in the T-pan have shavings on them then its either the bearing/gears. I am planning to drop the pan tomorrow, and see if the magnets have shavings on them.
I think that plugs into the backside of cruise control(?). Looking at your first picture, the module left of the battery. Look on the back side about 4 or 5 inches down.
I had to charge the battery today(20 minutes), I started the car and after 2 minutes the car just stopped running. Didn't get much time today to work on it after that.
Because of the multiple solenoid errors I'd check the wiring and the connectors. Unlikely you have two solenoids failing at the same time. It's possible that your ECM is bad.
Because of the multiple solenoid errors I'd check the wiring and the connectors. Unlikely you have two solenoids failing at the same time. It's possible that your ECM is bad.
Where do you recommend checking the wiring from? The main motor harness to the transmission ports below the battery? I was going to do a resistance and continuity check for the solenoids, but can't find the acceptable values anywhere even AllData.
According to a 2001 repair manual with U140E transmission, these are the trouble areas for errors P0753 and p0758:
- Open or short in shift solenoid valve SL1, SL2, S4 circuit
- Shift solenoid valve SL1, SL2, S4
- ECM
For errors p0753 and p0758
PREPARATION:
Disconnect the connector from ECM.
CHECK:
(a) Measure the resistance between terminals SL1+ and
SL1– of the ECM connector.
(b) Measure the resistance between terminals SL2+ and
SL2– of the ECM connector.
(c) Measure the resistance between terminal S4 of the ECM
connector and the body ground.
OK:
Resistance:
(a) SL1+ – SL1–: 5.3 ± 0.2 W
(b) SL2+ – SL2–: 5.3 ± 0.2 W
(c) S4 – Body ground: 13 ± 2 W
If the resistance was bad in the previous step then
PREPARATION:
(a) Disconnect the solenoid connector from the automatic
transaxle.
(b) Disconnect the connector from the ECM.
CHECK:
(a) Measure the harness and connector between terminal
SL1+ or SL1– of the ECM and terminal SL1+ or SL1– of
the solenoid connector.
(b) Measure the harness and connector between terminal
SL2+ or SL2– of the ECM and terminal SL2+ or SL2– of
the solenoid connector.
(c) Measure the harness and connector between terminal S4
of the ECM and terminal S4 of the solenoid connector
Resistance should be zero. If not you have a problem in the wiring. If good you have a problem in solenoids.
Check shift solenoid valve SLT.
PREPARATION:
(a) Jack up the vehicle.
(b) Remove the oil pan
(c) Disconnect the solenoid connector.
Check solenoid resistance:
CHECK:
Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2 of the solenoid
connector.
OK:
Resistance: 5.0 – 5.6 W
Check solenoid operation:
CHECK:
Connect the positive (+) lead with an 8 – 10W bulb to the terminal
1 of the solenoid connector and the negative (–) lead to the
terminal 2, then check the movement of the valve.
OK if
When battery positive voltage is applied. Valve moves in direction in illustration at right.
When battery positive voltage is cut off. Valve moves in direction in illustration at left.
Then check harness and connector between shift solenoid valve SLT and ECM
If everything above checks out, the problem is the ECM
I ordered some solenoids, and got the ones for a A451e. .
Reordered. On the meanwhile, I changed the alternator as the output was low. I had changed the fuel pump a little while ago, thought it may be the pump again causing the car to turn off, but after removing it to replace it again (bought another pump), I bench tested it and the pump seems to be working.
Does anyone know what the black wrapped thing on beside the fuel pump is for? It attached to a gold solenoid of some sort (I'm guessing thats a pressure regulator? )?
I was wondering why, the icon would flash when I would try to use CC
2000 ES300 Transmission Problem, (Solenoid)
) or the year before). The odometer was changed before us, but we don't know at what mileage. I haven't had issues with it and did the regular routine of oil changes and mechanicals. We did have to replace the transmission hose after it burst (not sure if it just randomly or from hitting a concrete stopper [before timing belt]). So new transmission fluid goes in. A timing belt kit a few months ago, [September-December 2017]) Recently last few months I noticed that the transmission is a little laggy when first driven after a cold start. I usually wait for the car thermostat to hit the middle before driving, (I know that's only for the coolant, not transmission fluid temp). I will be driving on the on ramp and the transmission will take a few seconds while at 3-K rpm to shift to the next gear, but after driving long enough it doesn't do that again. 3 weeks ago the car just shut down on the highway in the morning when I was going to class. Check engine light and trac-off light were dimming. I pulled over, car wouldn't start, called parents. Waited few minutes and the car started up, pulled out and then car shut off again, and pulled over. I had the car towed to my dad's shop. It sounded like the fuel pump died. So we replaced that. I also had the A/F O2 sensor bank 1 code, so I replaced that also (did bank-2 same month as the transmission hose), dad did the test-drive and it was fine. In that same evening, we went to fill up the gas tank, and on leaving the gas station, the car struggled to shift to second gear. We went back to the shop (literally down the street). I scanned it and these two codes came up:
. I'll have read it all to understand before reading.
.
