When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Only when cold is not really one of the indications usually constant noise or the boost gauge playing
yes the first time I noticied it by the boost the gauge but what I don't know is that the boost gauge is playing all the time when that is broken or can it be intermitent at the beginning ?
I'm also reaching the point when this should be broken about milleage so.
The regulator gives a more distinctive sound like a radiator fan noise when it’s faulty. If you have an F Sport model and your boost gauges fluctuates then that’s another sign of a bad regulator.
The regulator gives a more distinctive sound like a radiator fan noise when it’s faulty. If you have an F Sport model and your boost gauges fluctuates then that’s another sign of a bad regulator.
ah yes i recall the sound now. That is the sound that all lexus dealers thinks that is normal 😁
yes the first time I noticied it by the boost the gauge but what I don't know is that the boost gauge is playing all the time when that is broken or can it be intermitent at the beginning ?
I'm also reaching the point when this should be broken about milleage so.
Thats usually the tough part because it behaves differently on each car, some cars fluctuate all the tume some don’t, but what i noticed is that it never fluctuate on WOT no matter how damaged it is....how many miles u put on that regulator? The trend we noticed is that it breaks every 8~10 k
Thats usually the tough part because it behaves differently on each car, some cars fluctuate all the tume some don’t, but what i noticed is that it never fluctuate on WOT no matter how damaged it is....how many miles u put on that regulator? The trend we noticed is that it breaks every 8~10 k
my first one has been changed at 8000 miles. Now I'm at 18000 miles. I have the servicing next week so I wanted to check before to change it at the same time. But if no symptom, can't be changed in advance under warranty I think... that a pity for me because im living 2h from the dealer...
my first one has been changed at 8000 miles. Now I'm at 18000 miles. I have the servicing next week so I wanted to check before to change it at the same time. But if no symptom, can't be changed in advance under warranty I think... that a pity for me because im living 2h from the dealer...
But if it is fluctuating a little means its busted so get it swapped, plus all dealers are already aware of this faulty part
With the BMS i am making a lot of low and mid power. Eddy who is the owner of the shop and also a tuner explained to me that the reason we are not seeing higher peak WHP is due to the fact that A/F dips too low in the high range. This is where custom dyno tuning is needed to fix that.
The regulator gives a more distinctive sound like a radiator fan noise when it’s faulty. If you have an F Sport model and your boost gauges fluctuates then that’s another sign of a bad regulator.
sometimes it felt like i lost boost when i floor it. i can hear the boost released before picking it up. it fluctuates at max boost but how do i prove this to the dealer that it is busted? my Blind spot monitor also busted for the second time, i think this time it's the other side mirror. since my car is still under warranty. i'm going to have the dealer fix this.
Hey guys I’ve been skimming through the thread and at first I started with thinking the burgers piggyback was the best for my needs but it seems the reflash is the smarter way but I’m crazy worried about warranty and cost of tuning my sexy beast
Does the burgers piggyback make the boost gauge not work like the Tom’s?
Is the Tom’s worth the extra money compared to burger’s?
And if there was something to happen to the car while reflashed will they even find out?
Ps I used to own an 01es300 back in the day I went to the dark side for a bit and owned an 06 TL lol
glad im back Home lol
With the BMS i am making a lot of low and mid power. Eddy who is the owner of the shop and also a tuner explained to me that the reason we are not seeing higher peak WHP is due to the fact that A/F dips too low in the high range. This is where custom dyno tuning is needed to fix that.
This is very good information! That’s exactly what we need, a full ride dyno tune with fuel/throttle maps. I’m looking forward to seeing your dyno tune results! Any idea about what it might cost per hour for dyno tuning?
*UPDATE*
From my dyno testing the BMS tune seems to favor back pressure from the stock down-pipe. It made just as much torque as i did with the stock motor (221WHP 278WTQ) , but i did pick up 9WHP peak with the aftermarket down-pipe (230WHP 280WTQ) . Overall the BMS is an awesome plug and play tuner for those wanting to keep a stock motor. I shared my dyno results with Terry Burger and he told me that with higher octane fuel such as an E85 mix we would see much higher numbers.
Originally Posted by IS200TFOWL
This is very good information! That’s exactly what we need, a full ride dyno tune with fuel/throttle maps. I’m looking forward to seeing your dyno tune results! Any idea about what it might cost per hour for dyno tuning?
The tuner quoted me $350 for the tune and the shop charges around $100 an hour for dyno time, so we are looking at around $450-$550. It will be Daniellina and i, so we may be able to work out a deal for doing both cars. I just loaded my TTI Stage 2 since it got better results than 2+ on my particular car, so my BMS w/ data cable is for sale if anyone is interested please PM me.
12-30-17, 05:56 AM
