khuong

I ran all the usb cables to the centre console along the middle, there’s two cuts in the metal frame allowing you to run it all straight into the console.

I got 6 usb cables there for both android units lol.

oneround

Yeah, not sure where to go from here. The Toy-Lex 6-pin plug basically takes over the network between the Gateway ECU and the radio. And with the radio gone, there is no brain left to tell the Multi-Display to open/close/tilt.

My electronics knowledge doesn't extend far enough to figure out how to keep the Gateway ECU in the system and get the data to the Toy-Lex. Going to think on it a bit before changing anything.

The solution might be to go over to the PAC SWI-RC-1 product since it doesn't use any of the radio/Gateway pins or connectors.

khuong

I agree with the ASWC there is no way to complete the circuit, I tested it with it, the module itself completes it but only do it’s communication.

I think with the PAC you might be able to do all the buttons.

For my module it’s because I have the telephone stuff too, so it’s different and sucks!

I suggest the pac and the 68ohm.

I only have the nav modules connected to keep the tilt /door functions working for nav

stock radio is abs has been out for ages.

oneround

I am "almost" done with my make-over. I say almost because while the sound system itself is up and working well, I did something wrong inside the doors. Oh, and I misplaced the cigarette light cord when I was wrapping up the wiring for the headunit (not a big deal would have gone unused anyway).

My goof-up concerns the door lock switch. They unlock by the interior lock switch, but no longer lock using the same switch(have to manually lock the doors when exiting). There isn't even a sound of trying to lock. Perhaps I didn't get the plug in correctly. Not sure.
If anyone has done this, and fixed it, I would appreciate some guidance as to what goofed-up thing I did. I read through some posts and tried locking and unlocking several times, waited overnight and came out to find the system self corrected. Strange (from my experience) but true.

Lots of others have done a better job of documenting what they did for stereo redo efforts, so I will just make a list.
A list of what I replaced, and with what:
Multi-display screen -- Lilliput high-brightness monitor (fed using HDMI cable from headunit)
ML (Pioneer) Headunit -- Xtrons TQ700L Android double din headunit - 4 GB RAM, 64GB ROM, lots of bells and whistles. Only using a few of them..
ML Amp -- Kicker 4-channel amp - channels 3&4 bridged for a sub. located in same spot the ML amp occupied
ML Woofer -- Pioneer 8" shallow mount. Fits perfect, was even able to use OEM mounting ring
ML Door Speakers -- Pioneer Premier midbass/tweeter component set. I put the silk dome tweeter where the 4" ML speaker was located - it was too big to fit in the metal dome ML tweeter spot.
ML Back seat speakers -- not used, I personally don't care for speakers behind me.
OEM Speaker wiring used.
RCA cables from headunit to amp - run along passenger side.
Back-up camera mounted above license plate, between lights. Power tapped from back-up lights as well as using them for the trigger to switch the headunit to auto display the rear camera view.
Currently using an Axxess ASWC-Toy-Lex steering wheel control interface. It works, but to use it I had to give up the push button activated door to the Multi-display. Someday I will try out my PAC audio steering wheel control box as it doesn't require use of the radio plug that makes the Toy-Lex no longer support the door opening/closing by switch.

khuong

Very nice

I do suggest the PAC .. i think your mileage will be better than mine with the buttons, as my car has more buttons on swc. I actually ended up adding resistors to every button on swc module + disconnected it entirely from the car, and used the clockspring wiring, (which was the same one that the PAC wanted from the SW column) advantage is now i have 8 buttons total - which i use for both the android HU's in the car.. lol 2 for top, to switch between waze/cameras.. and the rest for the main HU where old radio was to control the audio/volumes.

oneround

I want to say thanks for the help. You made my install a bunch easier.

oneround

After looking at my failed ML amp, I decided to check impedance for the speaker channels at the amp.

My best guess at cause of failure:

The PO basically ignored the failure of the speaker surrounds. The decayed and missing surrounds couldn't keep the speaker cones properly aligned. Based on the impedance I saw on a couple of the speaker connections at the amp, my guess is the speakers shorted out and that fried the output section of the ML amp.

One of my boys proved a direct short will kill an amp when he "did in" an old-school Sansui receiver.

Hence my advice - if you want to keep your ML amp alive, make sure you take care of your speakers.

khuong

good to know -- i fixed my mids, and replaced the lower speakers, and back speakers, and sub with 8ohm ones

Bgw70

What brand and model did you purchase?
I believe the ML sub is 16ohms…not sure it matters much.

oneround

I have read many times on the forum about the 16-Ohm woofer. And there's a high likelihood I'm beating a dead horse, but I thought a tiny bit of clarification might help anyone searching for a replacement,

Based on my car (later model years might be different) -- the woofer has a dual voice coil design with each coil being 8-Ohms. So it could be wired as a 4-Ohm woofer (voice coils in parallel), a dual coil 8-Ohm woofer, or a 16-Ohm woofer (voice coils in series).

Based on the wiring diagram for a 2002, it's wired as a dual 8-Ohm voice coil woofer.





That said, I don't think it's easy to find dual 8-Ohm voice coil woofers, so this why I thought I might be beating a dead horse.

khuong

Im using dc golds dual 8ohms wired up to output 16ohms close to default same as most have done previously

as well as fosgate pps8-6 8ohms with custom 3D printed brackets

and umm some fosgate ones for rear speakers

kept the stock mids, I silicones the speakers just in case (was still good and sealed)

tweeters left cuz they looked annoying to replace and sound great still.

I’ll get you links and parts tomorrow just in bed browsing

khuong

I lied lol here’s the link.. forgot I can search Amazon

Goldwood Sound Dual Voice Coil 8" Replacement Speaker Woofer Black (GW-408D)
I wired it up in series, not getting into impedance vs resistance argument. Wired it like others have and tested with multimeter and installed.

I can post pictures if anyone wants.

Buster06

@khuong ,
Are these connectors at the back of your nav display unit?
if I wire them as such, then I can remove the nav display unit and still have the close/open/till buttons working?

oneround

I'm not @khuong , but he's referring to the connectors on the back of the radio/headunit. The radio door does not need the connectors to function, as the door mechanism has its own connector.

The Nav unit does not have a separate connector for the door. There are other threads that refer to removing and retaining a board from the nav unit if you don't want the nav unit but you still want a functioning door.

His drawing makes use of the unused radio connectors (after installing an aftermarket radio) to keep the nav door functional without buying something like the Beatsonic box. . Basically his works outlines a a simple but functional LAN "master" (the 60-Ohm resistor - replaces the 60-Ohm resistance in the radio unit)), and the wires that provide a LAN signal pathway for the Nav unit door.

Hope that helps,
Lee

khuong

Hey oneround is correct, that drawing is for the radio.

If you want your NAV Tilt/Open/Close to still work -- after you remove it, you must retain the pcb board that the original NAV unit uses, depending on the year of your car, that'll either be a single board with 3 connectors, or a large board with 3 connectors + daughter board.

The threads are linked in this thread to the posts, but basically you take it apart, keep the board, and tuck it connected behind your speedometer (plenty of room).

However you'll still require some way of retaining the NAV commuication to the ECU (via the resistor or if you a beatsonic)

If you need more details, just send me a pm.