Trunk keeps opening itself!!??
And I just got back home this afternoon after being gone for a few hours and I had left the car unlocked from this morning. Fuel door open, Trunk popped. And no, no one else was home or had access to the garage while I was gone. I went ahead and closed everything back up and pushed the Valet switch. I am very much leaning towards the ECU in the trunk near the rear window on the drivers side had to have gotten damp at some point.
And I just got back home this afternoon after being gone for a few hours and I had left the car unlocked from this morning. Fuel door open, Trunk popped. And no, no one else was home or had access to the garage while I was gone. I went ahead and closed everything back up and pushed the Valet switch. I am very much leaning towards the ECU in the trunk near the rear window on the drivers side had to have gotten damp at some point.
Last edited by Bgw70; Nov 3, 2018 at 04:01 PM.
So this morning, just got up and the Fuel tank door is open, but not the trunk. So the car was left in an unlocked state, but the valet switch was engaged. I went back down to the Garage after closing everything up and leaving unlocked and taking the valet switch off and a little over an hour later, the trunk was now popped and the fuel door Open..... So going to hunt online this week to find the electrical schematics to see where everything for those two circuits route to and from.
Last edited by Avmanager; Nov 4, 2018 at 04:49 AM.
It doesn't appear to be related to temp. My Garage is conditioned and its sitting about 70 degrees right now. I'm going to install a Naviks unit in it in a few weeks when I get more time, so will probably wait till that time to troubleshoot if its the ECU in the trunk since I will need the carpet and everything out at that time anyway. In the short term, my wife said she will just keep the car locked when she isn't in it. That's also a good way to get her back into the habit of locking her car....So Im just going to keep it locked in the garage when not in use till I do the backup camera installation
It doesn't appear to be related to temp. My Garage is conditioned and its sitting about 70 degrees right now. I'm going to install a Naviks unit in it in a few weeks when I get more time, so will probably wait till that time to troubleshoot if its the ECU in the trunk since I will need the carpet and everything out at that time anyway. In the short term, my wife said she will just keep the car locked when she isn't in it. That's also a good way to get her back into the habit of locking her car....So Im just going to keep it locked in the garage when not in use till I do the backup camera installation
its easier to access if you remove the center section carpet panels.
if you want to know more I can look for the thread.
also, do you still want some schematics for the ECU in question?
I would love some schematics on the ECU in question. That would help me out a lot.
I had seen on one of the other threads on the naviks, but was looking like people were doing two different ways to tie in the reverse. Either the harness or the backup light. Would love advice on the reverse trigger as that was the one thing I was going to do some more research on.
I've been spending a lot of time looking at backup cameras. I was looking for one that I could possibly get in the small area between the two license plate lights instead of doing a license plate frame camera.
I had seen on one of the other threads on the naviks, but was looking like people were doing two different ways to tie in the reverse. Either the harness or the backup light. Would love advice on the reverse trigger as that was the one thing I was going to do some more research on.
I've been spending a lot of time looking at backup cameras. I was looking for one that I could possibly get in the small area between the two license plate lights instead of doing a license plate frame camera.
I think avsingle cam (no licenaw frame) is available but you still have to mount it to the frame somehow. I would go with the framed camera, it will save you lot problems. For the back up trigger, use the back up light socket, It’s very simple, remove the bulb, insert the wire the reinstall the bulb.
Back to your weird problem, seemed like it’s only happened when the doors were unlocked, I think it might have something to do with the security system or the door lock system. I’m just guessing.
Back to your weird problem, seemed like it’s only happened when the doors were unlocked, I think it might have something to do with the security system or the door lock system. I’m just guessing.
I would love some schematics on the ECU in question. That would help me out a lot.
I had seen on one of the other threads on the naviks, but was looking like people were doing two different ways to tie in the reverse. Either the harness or the backup light. Would love advice on the reverse trigger as that was the one thing I was going to do some more research on.
I've been spending a lot of time looking at backup cameras. I was looking for one that I could possibly get in the small area between the two license plate lights instead of doing a license plate frame camera.
I had seen on one of the other threads on the naviks, but was looking like people were doing two different ways to tie in the reverse. Either the harness or the backup light. Would love advice on the reverse trigger as that was the one thing I was going to do some more research on.
I've been spending a lot of time looking at backup cameras. I was looking for one that I could possibly get in the small area between the two license plate lights instead of doing a license plate frame camera.
GmanSC, pulled his camera directly from the reverse light bulb socket. Both of these methods are on the same circuit, just a different point in the circuit.
post #15 will show you where I connected my camera power. The camera has no power until you switch to reverse, the wire is then powered and 12vdc is applied to the camera and the radio. Video is then displayed on the upper nav screen, aftermarket radio, both or either one depending how the radio is setup and how the video signal is routed.
i split the video signal but only display it on the upper NAV screen.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...placement.html
Last edited by Bgw70; Nov 4, 2018 at 06:46 PM.
Bgw, you’re right. To me, it’s easier to pull power and the trigger for the camera from the light socket, rather splice from the connector pin. Either way will work.
Question: Can you, from the schematic, locate the switched +12v from the fuse box? I checked, could’nt find any. I know we’re using the power from the connector, just want to know if there is an alternate. Thks.
Question: Can you, from the schematic, locate the switched +12v from the fuse box? I checked, could’nt find any. I know we’re using the power from the connector, just want to know if there is an alternate. Thks.
Bgw, you’re right. To me, it’s easier to pull power and the trigger for the camera from the light socket, rather splice from the connector pin. Either way will work.
Question: Can you, from the schematic, locate the switched +12v from the fuse box? I checked, could’nt find any. I know we’re using the power from the connector, just want to know if there is an alternate. Thks.
Question: Can you, from the schematic, locate the switched +12v from the fuse box? I checked, could’nt find any. I know we’re using the power from the connector, just want to know if there is an alternate. Thks.
NOTE, I didn’t splice, I just slipped a new wire next to the existing pin, in the Jbox in the trunk.
I would love some schematics on the ECU in question. That would help me out a lot.
I had seen on one of the other threads on the naviks, but was looking like people were doing two different ways to tie in the reverse. Either the harness or the backup light. Would love advice on the reverse trigger as that was the one thing I was going to do some more research on.
I've been spending a lot of time looking at backup cameras. I was looking for one that I could possibly get in the small area between the two license plate lights instead of doing a license plate frame camera.
I had seen on one of the other threads on the naviks, but was looking like people were doing two different ways to tie in the reverse. Either the harness or the backup light. Would love advice on the reverse trigger as that was the one thing I was going to do some more research on.
I've been spending a lot of time looking at backup cameras. I was looking for one that I could possibly get in the small area between the two license plate lights instead of doing a license plate frame camera.
so use it on my 2007. Many things are still the same...
anyway, hope this helps!
Thank you BGW70, I started looking through the pictures some to narrow it down. Im not going to take the trunk lining out to look at the ECU in that area until my Naviks unit gets here. I ordered it end of the week. I did some more narrowing down to see if I can figure out any more patterns and noticed today that if I press either the trunk release or the fuel cap release button under the dash, both open. So I can consistently duplicate it pressing one or the other, but both pop open. Very Odd. Only other weird electrical on the car is the Dimmer does not Dim. I ordered another one off ebay for $10 and that one behaved the same way, so I went by my aunts and tried my switch in her car and it worked perfect. Then her switch in my car and it behaved the same. So at night, the instrument lights do not light up if the lights are on unless the rheostat is switched over to the constant on position. I've tried 3 different switches that I doublechecked in another vehicle. So not sure why they do not Dim. But I can dim them if the headlights are not switched on
It looks like it could be the ECU.
When you look at the schematic, the circuit requires a ground to activate the solenoid. When the switch is pushed, the circuit is completed.
it is not a constant ground. Where is the common ground?
it appears to be in the ECU.
before I swapped an ECU, I would open the J box and look for any foreign objects.
When you look at the schematic, the circuit requires a ground to activate the solenoid. When the switch is pushed, the circuit is completed.
it is not a constant ground. Where is the common ground?
it appears to be in the ECU.
before I swapped an ECU, I would open the J box and look for any foreign objects.
Last edited by Bgw70; Jun 19, 2020 at 01:28 PM.








