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Hey everyone! So I'm starting to plan out my next project. I'm taking on the elusive Quarter Window Mod and need the help of all my wise CL electrical gurus. I know there are a few other threads on this topic but I started this thread as the other threads specify creating a whole new relay and splicing into the SC430's factory ECU. I would prefer not to do that and just as a stand alone module and switch. Let me start by saying that I have the LuxLink remote start and remote top drop/up. Now I know what many experinced users will say at this point, "if you have LuxLink, you only need the Quarter Window Module from Steve at Luxury Motorwerks." I spoke with Steve and he recommended this path with the window module. Let me explain. There are basically two "Generations" of the LuxLink. First gen is nonprogrammable/non-upgradable and allows remote start and remote roof control; Second gen (different hardware) is programmable and allows remote start and the remote top and other programmable features (ie. double press roof operation, quarter window addon); Third gen allows remote start, remote top, and double button tap on the dash to drop/raise top.There is no third gen. I have the 1st Gen (nonprogrammable/nonupgradable) and Steve says the add-on Quarter Window Module is not compatible with my LuxLink unit. The add-on Quarter Window Module only works with the 2nd gen. Thus, my only option is to add this window control unit. Whew. Now that that's covered, I'll continue.
I have the window unit with minimal directions, which I purchased directly from Steve at LuxuryMotorwerks. I have also disassembled the rear seat to expose the wiring harnesses of the left and right chassis wall. Unfortunately, this is where my expertise stops. I'm not sure which wire harness controls the quarter window motors and thus I don't know which wires to "splice" into; much less which wire of the set is UP and which is DOWN. I've attached photos of the rear seat and what I believe is the window motor harness, but am looking for confirmation. Additionally, I have the wiring diagram fo the window module but need help in wiring it correctly; specifically if anyone can indicate what colored wires of the window module should connect to which colored wires in the vehicle harnesses. I already have a 12v constant in the back seat off the ACC circuit which only is "hot" when the ignition is on. I will also ground in the backseat and mount the unit under the seat. I currently don't have a switch, and thus need someone's advice on which one to purchase (maybe an eBay link?), but also which wires of the harness to connect to the switch. I can take care of mounting, no problem.<br />Anyway, so those are my challenges. Please take a look at the photos and let me know your thoughts. Right now, it seems overwhelming but with all the other modifications I've tackled with this forum's help, I'm hoping this will be a walk in the park if I get all the information and make a plan before diving in. Hope to hear from you all, and your advice. Thanks in advance and sorry about the novel.
Don't see anything posted on your module yet. What power window control unit are you installing?
Typically units like the Directed 530T module are connected directly to the window motors. If you have the rear interior panels removed, find these motors. There are 2 wires going to each. The Drivers side should be Black with Yellow stripe and Black with Red stripe. The passenger side will be Yellow and Black.
Thanks Flop. Those are the same wires I was thinking, also. I just wanted someone, maybe with a service manual, to confirm. Additionally, I still need to know which is up and which is down on each respective side. Plus, which switch I should purchase and which set of wire to solder to the switch. Still hoping for more help and confirmation.
PS. I'd be incredibly grateful if someone mocked up a simplified schematic on wiring this thing. I can be pretty dense and easily get confused with these things sometimes. Would hate to damage something in this process, or end up running the window motors in the wrong direction or over excessive in the correct direction.
....just a thought Shawn.....with the top up, I would clip one of the wires (yellow/black or red/black), then proceed to let the top down. If the quarter window goes down, then the wire you didn't clip, is possibly the down side. Now if you proceed to let the top up & the quarter doesn't come up, then you know the clipped wire is the up side........hopefully this make sense to you
I have the full Service Manual set for the 2004 SC430. It is 3 volumes.
The wire color info came from the 2004 SC430 Electrical Wiring Diagram volume.
Think I would test it a bit differently. First, follow the two wire as they leave that connector and verify that
they do indeed go to the window motor. Next, make sure the front windows are down. Unplug that connector.
Using a fused jumper ( 15 Amps should be good ) with +12V on it and another jumper going to Chassis Ground,
make the connections to the plug wires going to the window motor. It will either go up or down, depending on
the way you have the input. As an example using the passenger side window, connect +12V to the Yellow wire
and ground to the Black wire. Note which way the window travels. Reverse the wires, put +12V on the Black
and ground on the Yellow. The window will go the other way.
Doing it this way, off line, will prevent CEL codes from being logged and confusing the convertible top ECU.
Both are great ideas, and I was planning on doing the "test" as Texsexlex recommended, but I see your way to be more logical Flop. Thanks. Unforunately, I won't be able to test our theories until the first week of June when I get a little R&R. Until then, any additional advice/confirmation would be great. Still looking for a proper switch. Many on ebay. 5 pole? Double throw? I don't know which one to get. And where to splice it in? Would it be the yellow/ yellow-white pair of wires off the module? Also, what's this isolation diode diagram thing about? Something I need to take into consideration on my install?
Oh and additionally, what are your thoughts on the auto-roll down vent feature if great than 100 degrees inside the car? Should I install it in the manner suggested (if it requires EXTRA steps), or will it already be active with the normal planned installation?
I have gen 2 luxlink and the 1/4 window module from steve. It does work contrary to what steve says. There is just 2 bugs in the system caused by the design of the lexus top circuit
Bug 1 if you initiate the window down or up sequence [ double tap of window down switch ] The rear windows will go down or up depending on what there last state was. If after you want to operate the top down or up via double tap or hold button down you will have to shut down engine and do a restart, The 1/4 window mod when activated on gen 2 system the lexus computer sees that as a fault and terminates the top from working. That is why you have to shut down and restart car
Bug 2 any time you use 1/4 window mod and top goes to fault because of lexus computer seeing that as a fault. The next time you go to remote start the engine only. The top will drop as well.
Its really no big deal once you know about the bugs . I bought a gen 3 to swap out but am holding off for now. In fact I think steve can re-program the gen 2 to the gen 3 spec.
The window control switch that you are looking for is a momentary SPDT type toggle switch. Other names
include ON - OFF - ON and (ON) - OFF - (ON). The switch will have three terminals on it. Some switches
found on EBay have up and down arrows on them for the two rocker positions. The center pole would go
to chassis ground while the other two pins would go to the UP and Down inputs of the window control
module. Probably the main consideration would be the style and size of the switch. Some switches have
illumination if you desired that feature. This would require additional wiring and might not be dimmable
with the instrument panel lights.
The vent feature mentioned in the guide would not be available because the Up control is not a constant
(-) output like a normal alarm system Ground When Armed signal.
The Automatic Venting feature sounds nice as long as it never rains when the temperature goes over 100
degrees.
Here is the wiring, assuming a normal Type A power window system with a module wire breakdown :
Black/White cut for 2 window up / down
Green/Black Passenger Side, Motor side of cut Down wire
Green Passenger Side, Switch side of cut Down wire
Red +12V constant
Blue/Black Driver Side, Motor side of cut Down wire
Blue Driver Side, Switch side of cut Down wire
Black Chassis Ground
Brown/Blue Passenger Side, Motor side of cut Up wire
Brown Passenger Side, Switch side of cut Up wire
Yellow (-) Up signal from switch
Yellow/White (-) Down signal from switch
White/Blue Driver Side, Motor side of cut Up wire
White Driver Side, Switch side of cut Up wire
Looks fairly straight forward. Not sure how long the motor output wires are, but if possible mount the
control module centrally between the windows motor wires. Hopefully they reach to the side panels, if
not extend them with 14 gauge wire.
Connect the Red +12V input wire to a suitable power source. The Black wire would get a soldered-on
terminal lug and solidly connected to the vehicles frame.
The Yellow and Yellow/White would be run to the control switch along with an addition wire that was
joined with the Black wire to supply the switches ground center pin input. Those three wires would be
soldered to the proper switch pins.
Pair off the motor wires for each side, Brown/Blue, Brown, Green/Black and Green for the passenger
side and White, White/Blue, Blue and Blue/Black for the Drivers side.
After you determine each window motors up and down wire, cut the wires and make the connections
observing the motor and switch side denotations.
No diode would be required because the modules inputs are not coming from an alarm system.
I would solder all connections and use heatshrink tube to insulate. Neat and reliable.
I have gen 2 luxlink and the 1/4 window module from steve. It does work contrary to what steve says. There is just 2 bugs in the system caused by the design of the lexus top circuit
Bug 1 if you initiate the window down or up sequence [ double tap of window down switch ] The rear windows will go down or up depending on what there last state was. If after you want to operate the top down or up via double tap or hold button down you will have to shut down engine and do a restart, The 1/4 window mod when activated on gen 2 system the lexus computer sees that as a fault and terminates the top from working. That is why you have to shut down and restart car
Bug 2 any time you use 1/4 window mod and top goes to fault because of lexus computer seeing that as a fault. The next time you go to remote start the engine only. The top will drop as well.
Its really no big deal once you know about the bugs . I bought a gen 3 to swap out but am holding off for now. In fact I think steve can re-program the gen 2 to the gen 3 spec.
I spoke with him on the phone for about 30 minutes and he didn't mention any of those options and specifically told me my LuxLink will not work with Gen3 Quarter module. He didn't mention he could upgrade mine from gen 2 to 3 either. This was the only option which remained. Even this way though, he told me that I'd have to restart car for top function as you experience. In any case, as he didn't volunteer to upgrade mine and denied that the stand alone module will work. My options are limited. 😕. Not sure what to do now. Advice?
The 1/4 window module gen 3 was the last generation unit steve made. When he was selling them you could of bought the 1/4 module then if you wanted it. Since my installed gen was gen 2 and it did have the 1/4 window mod he told me I could swap my unit gen 2 out and install the new gen 3 and that would be just a swap out no rewiring. I asked him if I sent my old gen 2 in he said he can re-program soft wear to the new timing specs of the gen 3 . The main difference was from gen 2 to gen 3 was really a timing issue with regarding the drop remote start and then drop the top as a single press sequence. In the older gen 2 the timing window was very narrow and was hard to execute since the timing was very tight. The new unit gen 3 he allowed for more time. There also was the other issue in gen 2 where if you had a fault [ caused by the 1/4 window execution ] the next time you would start the car remote with the un lock lock lock sequence the top would drop as well. This was fixed in gen 3 . The fault in the 1/4 window module execution is not correctable because the lexus computer sees the 1/4 window as a fault that is why the restart is necessary.
I as well had many conversations with steve when the luxlink was a new device and in fact my first purchase was the gen 2 and I did order the 1/4 window module and he told me at the time I ordered the unit that if I wanted he 1/4 window mod he had to program that in then. Mine is still the gen 2 and it works reliable of course some times I don't get the sequence timing right
for remote start and remote top in one sequence.
mine from gen 2 to 3 either. This was the only option which remained. Even this way though, he told me that I'd have to restart car for top function as you experience. In any case, as he didn't volunteer to upgrade mine and denied that the stand alone module will work. My options are limited. 😕. Not sure what to do now. Advice?[/QUOTE]
So I spoke with Steve about 10 minutes ago and he filled me in. Please refer to the 1st post to see the changes. Sorry for the confusion, but I think it's all straightened out now. So as it stands, I have a 1st Gen (nonprogrammable/nonupgrable) LuxLink and thus I must use the stand alone window module with stand alone switch. The 2nd Gen (which MrBlister) must have, is programmable/upgradable and allows for the double touch top operation and quarter window add-on. Therefore, since mine is not upgradable, I cannot have Steve add the features of double press to open nor quarter window mod. Too bad. :-(
Additionally, I asked about which wire is UP/DOWN and he tried to find his schematic. No luck. He said best option is to use a 12volt tester and initiate the top cycle to start the process of the quarter window going down without cutting anything. This would indicate which wire handles which direction. Also in this method is prevents tripping a "Top Failure" problem. Easy peasy. That's why he's the pro. Anyway, won't be able to get to the project until first week of June. Will update at that time.
04-29-17, 12:57 PM
SC430 Quarter Window Mod Using Window Module
