There isn't a transmission dipstick on the '06 and later models with the 6-speed transmissions. They're "sealed for life".

 

My lexus service advisor said while there is no dipstick they do change the fluid at 60-90k miles.

unless he's wrong?

reading the manual he was wrong unless you have an ES.

INTERESTING

 

TThe 2005 also does not have a dipstick either

 

Hey Guys, I was referring to my SC 2002. It's between the Oil Dip Stick & the Firewall.

Chris From OZ.

 

Hey Bon, was there any special trick you used to disconnect the starter from the engine Block? I heard getting the nut on the right side is REALLY HARD.

Did you do it from below or from above?

I also heard if you remove the transmission mount you get more room to do it from below. Did you do anything like that?

 

the starter is located under the intake manifold. That is why he removed it...go back and look at the first photo he posted. You will see the starter on the top rear of the engine.
post 8.

 

Some people say there are two 14 mm nuts that hold it to the rear of the engine. One person says there were three (2 x 14, 1 X 12) EVERYONE says the RIGHT NUT/BOLT is almost impossible to get off. One person took out a wire bundle, another couple of people used a 3 ft ratchet extension and came from the bottom. A bunch of people implied taking off the manifold was the easy part compared to getting the nut loose.

As the latest member to complete the job, I was wondering if he had any recent insight

 

sorry, I misunderstood...I was good until you mentioned removing the transmission Mount. The trans mount is under the car.
That is when I thought you meant underneath the the car, like a normal starter.
honestly, this is a bad design and most Toyota starter are in a location that don't require major effort to replace.

 

I will agree to that. Someone posted that a dealer tech told them, the techs remove the transmission mount so the tranny hangs a little away from the firewall and they have more room to go in with a long extension

 

my answer to a stubborn bolt. First is whatever spray lubricant you like ( not here to debate what one is best) . Then hold a piece of dry ice on the bolt. This does two things. One it shrinks the bolt from the nut or threaded hole. Two, it actually vibrates the metal working in that spray lubricant. I use this method more than heat or in conjunction with heat. Heat the nut and use dry ice on the bolt.try it next time on a stuck bleeder screw.

 

There isn't anything special about the two back bolts that I recall. Yes, they're facing the firewall so you're working backwards. Sockets and extensions are what you need. Everything is done from up top. I sure didn't need to loosen a transmission mount. If your car won't start it would be pretty darn hard to get under the car to do so!

Have a vacuum cleaner available. A lot of road sand etc., collects on the intake manifold and tries to fall into the intake valves when removing it. Vacuuming it first and then carefully cleaning around the intake ports is mandatory.

Changing the spark plugs on my daughters RX330 was much, much worse! It took 10 minutes to do the front three and five hours to do the rear three.

 

That is great to hear, THANKS!

 

I do strongly recommend two or three people to assist with the removal and replacement of the intake manifold though. Unless you're particularly agile and strong.

 

I am definitely going to get some help on this one. For some reason it scares me...

Any other suggestions you have? Was there any one part that gave you pause? or is there any thing you would have done differently, if you had to do it all over again?

 

Don't overlook what I said about the fuel line disconnect: " Your best (only?) tool for that are flare nut wrenches. Odd thing is that it required an SAE wrench to get the best fit.". It takes two of these wrenches to get it done. Any other open-end wrench will likely just round over the flats and make you miserable. Also, be sure to drain your radiator and still expect some antifreeze to come out of the rear crossover coolant connector at the rear of the engine when your remove it - remove it slowly and build a dam of paper towels to keep antifreeze from flooding down into a cylinder if it does run forward. Expect some of the rubber sleeves on the fuel injector plugs or ignition coil connectors to be falling-off rotten. It's not really an issue unless some of the bits get into places that they don't belong. Finally, if you're anywhere near time to change the plugs this is a great time to do it!

If you're a tool nut they you might like this spark plug tool. I used it on my daughter's RX, and it worked very well for those deep well plugs, but haven't used it yet on my SC as I don't have enough miles. Check out the feedback on this tool. It's rare to see such overwhelming 5-star enthusiasm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1