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Advice on a B2510 Convertible Top problem?

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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 11:55 AM
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Default Advice on a B2510 Convertible Top problem?

My convertible top wouldn't go down. When you press the button, NOTHING happens. It didn't flash or anything.


I have access to Techstream and came up with a B2510 code, which is a "Short in Pulse Width Modulation Motor LH Circuit"


After many days of contemplation, I came to the conclusion the middle part of a motor might be caught on the outside. aka The cumulator is touching the stator? (not sure if those are the right terms, but they came up when I googled DC Motor)


So I disconnected each motor on the left hinge and scanned for codes each time. Finally when I disconnected this motor (The one the green wire is plugged into), the code disappeared.



So I tried the old "stuck starter thing" and tapped on it with a screwdriver. Sure enough that cleared up the code and my top started working again.


My question to the group is "Do I need to buy a new Motor/Hinge Assembly or will my fix work for awhile?"

As I type this post, I also remember I turn the black round dial on top of the motor. It was tight and I turned it so it was loose. I did both of those things at the same time, so I am not sure which one "fixed" the motor.

I don't know that much about electronics and read the code to mean there was a "short" in the motor, fixed by the tap. As I type up this post, I am wonder if it was trying to tell me the motor was out of synch with the right hand motor and turning the dial got it back in synch.

Does anyone know what the black dial does and which action got my top working?

I am open to any advice or opinions anyone might have.

Last edited by DshngDaryl; Jul 18, 2016 at 12:02 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:16 PM
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The word is commutator, not cumulator. Just an FYI.
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 02:31 PM
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....I'm not familiar with this, since I haven't had any top issues....BUT would like to congratulate you on your good work , in sorting through the code & issues. Hopefully someone with more knowledge on this subject will chime in. I personally wouldn't bother it, but would watch it closely. If the problem comes back, then do one of the procedures (you've done before) & see if this helps, if not, then try the other. Either way, your detective work may come in handy for other members.....also, you might start searching for the motor, just in case the problem comes back again
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 04:33 PM
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Well, if there was a short in the motor, tapping it wouldn't help, unless the short was caused by two objects not normally near each somehow coming together to short out. If the tapping helped it, I'd guess that there was a mechanical problem unless there was a connection problem.
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 07:11 PM
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A DC Pulse Width Modulation Motor has brushes. The brushes sometimes loose contact with the commutator and sometimes tapping the motor will re-seat the brushes allowing them to make connection and run the motor.
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 07:47 PM
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Another possibility. How often do you lower and raise the top? If it is infrequently, like once a
month or so, perhaps it just got stuck. Your troubleshooting / isolation process manually forced the
motor to rotate and then it started working again. My advice would be to use the top more often,
like twice a day for a couple of weeks. You'll either free things up and get them working normally
again or see that same fault again.

In my case the top always works well but every year when I take the SC out of winter hibernation, I
get auto-leveling headlight errors. They get less frequent after a week or so and disappear all
together by mid June.
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 07:51 PM
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Good point 1OldDog!
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 11:05 PM
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Thank you all for your help and kind words.i appreciate all your input and look forward to more.


Originally Posted by 1OldDog
A DC Pulse Width Modulation Motor has brushes. The brushes sometimes loose contact with the commutator and sometimes tapping the motor will re-seat the brushes allowing them to make connection and run the motor.


would you recommend replacing the brushes?
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DashingDar
would you recommend replacing the brushes?
Not really,like FlopTop04 said, just exercise the top more often.
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 05:41 AM
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would you recommend replacing the brushes?[/QUOTE]

It is unlikely that is even possible. These motors are normally sealed and trying to open one to replace the brushes is likely to ruin the motor.
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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 01:41 PM
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ARGH! My top stopped working again! I guess I have to replace the motor/hinge
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 01:00 PM
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Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Weird. New Day and It works again. I think it might be related to the bumps/potholes/speed bumps I go over in a normal course of a day. I think the jarring of everyday driving makes it stick or come loose. Anyone else have any other ideas?
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 02:09 PM
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You might make sure that everything is tightened down. It is possible that the jarring moves a sensor or connector around, if that is indeed what is making it work and not work.
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 06:44 PM
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Good thought
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 11:42 PM
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H Dashing ,

How did you open "motor on the left hinge" is it easy to open?

Thanks
Kush


Originally Posted by DashingDar
My convertible top wouldn't go down. When you press the button, NOTHING happens. It didn't flash or anything.


I have access to Techstream and came up with a B2510 code, which is a "Short in Pulse Width Modulation Motor LH Circuit"


After many days of contemplation, I came to the conclusion the middle part of a motor might be caught on the outside. aka The cumulator is touching the stator? (not sure if those are the right terms, but they came up when I googled DC Motor)


So I disconnected each motor on the left hinge and scanned for codes each time. Finally when I disconnected this motor (The one the green wire is plugged into), the code disappeared.



So I tried the old "stuck starter thing" and tapped on it with a screwdriver. Sure enough that cleared up the code and my top started working again.


My question to the group is "Do I need to buy a new Motor/Hinge Assembly or will my fix work for awhile?"

As I type this post, I also remember I turn the black round dial on top of the motor. It was tight and I turned it so it was loose. I did both of those things at the same time, so I am not sure which one "fixed" the motor.

I don't know that much about electronics and read the code to mean there was a "short" in the motor, fixed by the tap. As I type up this post, I am wonder if it was trying to tell me the motor was out of synch with the right hand motor and turning the dial got it back in synch.

Does anyone know what the black dial does and which action got my top working?

I am open to any advice or opinions anyone might have.
Reply



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