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Replaced old steering rack bushings with Figs Engineering polyurethane bushings. Before the swap, the old bushings allowed the rack to move back and forth about 8 mm when moving steering wheel left/right with car parked. Now, I can't see any rack movement and steering is more immediately responsive. No change in noise nor noticeable steering wheel road vibration. Should have done this ages ago.
They were a little grabby for the first few miles, but seem to work fine now. I haven't noticed a difference in performance, but I've never had a serious braking situation with my SC before or after the new brakes.
My car always pulled to the left, so I got toe plates and a digital inclinometer. I found that total toe was OK but the Dr side tire was straight and the PA tire toe in. Camber was a little off on DR side.
I was stupid and didn't mark my starting point on the camber bolt and cannot get it right haha.
I'm gonna make a stand with 2x4s so I can adjust it with weight on wheels this weekend and get it right.
Yeah, it was pretty obvious what was wrong.
I used a large washer stuck under the horn and a level to keep the steering wheel straight as I rolled into the garage.
I tied a piece of string to my rear rim and found the DR side wheel was almost perfectly parallel while the PA side was turned in.
You're supposed to adjust caster, then camber, then toe. We don't have caster adjustment so I went straight to camber and got it all out of whack.
They were a little grabby for the first few miles, but seem to work fine now. I haven't noticed a difference in performance, but I've never had a serious braking situation with my SC before or after the new brakes.
SeaStories
I have power stop pads and slotted rotors as well. I followed their instructions for braking them in, but it wasn't until after an actual track day that they really bedded in. Now as soon as they warm up, the brakes are seriously good. What surprised me was how fast the rotors ate up the pads. I replaced them in February and barely go anywhere due to the pandemic, but my pads are already down 30%. Not a big deal, but make sure you check them more often!
I have power stop pads and slotted rotors as well. I followed their instructions for braking them in, but it wasn't until after an actual track day that they really bedded in. Now as soon as they warm up, the brakes are seriously good. What surprised me was how fast the rotors ate up the pads. I replaced them in February and barely go anywhere due to the pandemic, but my pads are already down 30%. Not a big deal, but make sure you check them more often!
Thanks to threads in this forum, my 222K+ 2002 got some love
Changed power steering fluid - was already working well, but seems lighter to touch after change.
Changed transmission fluid (5 speed) - slight delays between gears are now gone with fresh Toyota T-IV. Old fluid was brown.
Changed spark plugs from original Denso to NGK's - Amazing the old ones lasted this long. Gaps on old plugs were about 0.048. After transmission fluid and new plugs, she accelerates more aggressively.
Only bad thing was discovering oil in 2/3 of my spark plug wells. Seems to be slow leaks as there is NOTHING venting or weeping to outside of valve covers. Adding a valve cover gasket job to next week's front suspension rebuild.
refurbished the rear speakers and got control of my quarter windows
I had to strip the back of the car to install my rear quarter window control module and discovered two very sad rear speakers. With a kit and a bit of extra effort, my rear windows go up and down when I say so AND I can hear my rear speakers again !!! OK, what's next?
Cleaned the throttle body intake and the mass flow air sensor Wednesday (for a noticeable improvement in throttle response and drive-ability). Installed Daizen Polyurethane Steering Rack Bushings Thursday, discovered the LH tie rod is warn out (ordered Mevotech replacements for both sides). Washed the car Friday and waxed it Sunday.
10-09-20, 07:12 AM
