Oil Change Procedure for SC430
#46
One end at a time, I start with the front. Using the center point and then put the axle stands in (I use the side scissor jack points for this)... then do the rear (if needed).
I can't find the SC430 diagram atm (I have a hard copy printed off in my car) but this old SC300/400 shows the idea -> https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att..._793_68711.jpg
I can't find the SC430 diagram atm (I have a hard copy printed off in my car) but this old SC300/400 shows the idea -> https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att..._793_68711.jpg
#48
Mate I am most certainly NOT an AMSoil distributor!
M1 0w40 is not recommended by Mobil for either my SC430 or RX350. 5w30 is what is recommended. The AMSoil 5w30 is HDD which has a HTHS of 3.5 and a TBN of 12.1. It's closer to a 5W40 in reality. This is the Series 3000 I am referring to.
I have PM'd a guy on BITOG who is an authority on Mobil products re Group III/Group IV and I am awaiting his reply. This guy was involved in the development and certification of M1 products and will post his reply when received.
The M1 5W30's specs do not match the AMSoil HDD series 3000 5w30 which is why I use it. I change oil every six months and don't believe in extended OCI's regardless of what ANY oil manufacturer says.
M1 0w40 is not recommended by Mobil for either my SC430 or RX350. 5w30 is what is recommended. The AMSoil 5w30 is HDD which has a HTHS of 3.5 and a TBN of 12.1. It's closer to a 5W40 in reality. This is the Series 3000 I am referring to.
I have PM'd a guy on BITOG who is an authority on Mobil products re Group III/Group IV and I am awaiting his reply. This guy was involved in the development and certification of M1 products and will post his reply when received.
The M1 5W30's specs do not match the AMSoil HDD series 3000 5w30 which is why I use it. I change oil every six months and don't believe in extended OCI's regardless of what ANY oil manufacturer says.
Ahhh, but we split hairs!
If you change your oil twice per year and do 10K-12K miles per year or less in mixed driving then we are in agreement. Even many of the newer hydrocracked dino oils if changed at this frequency would probably get by as long as the service wasn't severe.
The M1 0W-40 meets the most stringent European specs and just wouldn't be able to resist the tendency to shear-down if it were a group III, no matter what anyone tells you.
#51
Driver School Candidate
I use ramps when I change my oil. My driveway is slopped so that when I put the front wheels on the ramps, the car is level. The filter is a Toyota 90915-YZZD3 and the gasket for the oil plug is Toyota part number 90430-12031. There is a plastic cover under the engine bay that needs to come off. There are lots of screws holding it on and many screw back into plastic. You will need to be careful and not strip them out. Toyota sells an inexpensive tool that fits over the end of the filter to unscrew it. The torque on the oil plug is 29 foot pounds. A nice feature is you can set your navigation screen to tell you when to change your oil and to complete other maintenance tasks at schedules you set up.
#52
Lexus Test Driver
Haha, I always like the oil debate, oil, filters and even which ramps to use!
Here is my two cents...I used many different types and brands over the years and through my own experience, regular oil seemed to work just fine if you change every 3-4k miles.
My test dummy was a 1995 Honda Accord. I purchased almost new, I sold it with 217k miles. It had a valve adjustment service interval listed in the owners manual and every time I checked them they never required an adjustment.
In addition, when I took the car to Honda for the second timing belt change, I had them replace a leaking valve cover gasket. When they were finished, the tech came out and told me that was the cleanest engine he had ever worked on. His comment, you must change your oil on a regular interval.
Here is my two cents...I used many different types and brands over the years and through my own experience, regular oil seemed to work just fine if you change every 3-4k miles.
My test dummy was a 1995 Honda Accord. I purchased almost new, I sold it with 217k miles. It had a valve adjustment service interval listed in the owners manual and every time I checked them they never required an adjustment.
In addition, when I took the car to Honda for the second timing belt change, I had them replace a leaking valve cover gasket. When they were finished, the tech came out and told me that was the cleanest engine he had ever worked on. His comment, you must change your oil on a regular interval.
#53
Driver School Candidate
Oil overfilled?
My mechanic filled my 2002 SC430 oil to a questionable level imo.
Is it safe to just drive with the level shown?
30% over the max
Or should I go back and have it drained a little? I noticed when the motor has been turned on, the level decreases quite a bit. Makes it hard to state my case once having driven to the mechanic.
Is it safe to just drive with the level shown?
30% over the max
Or should I go back and have it drained a little? I noticed when the motor has been turned on, the level decreases quite a bit. Makes it hard to state my case once having driven to the mechanic.
#54
If this is with the engine cold and sitting around for a while, It's definitely overfilled. Should be at the F line when cold and time allowed to drip down into oil pan.
When recently run, the level should be below F.
When recently run, the level should be below F.
#56
Pole Position
Project Farm extensively tested all the oils on the market and the winner was Penzoil Platinum Plus. I see no reason to vary the change interval, 5K or 6mo, unless you drive only a few thousand miles a year, as do I. I change my oil once per year, but I'm very conscientious about always bringing the motor to operating temperature before shutting it down, which keeps crankcase condensation to a minimum.
There are many good tests on YouTube for oil filters as well. The premium filters from Purolator, Wix, Bosch, K&N, and even Fram, do well. Since each manufacturer has several lines from economy to premium, how much one spends is more critical than which brand one chooses. I tend to go with Wix XP, K&N, or OEM. The OEM filters are rarely tested online for some reason.
I prefer a floorjack and jackstands to ramps for the same reasons listed in the posts above. The jack points are shown in the owner's manual and shop manuals. There is a center point on the front, main cross-member, and you use the differential as the jackpoint for the rear.
If you want the job done right...do it yourself! Nobody cares more about your vehicle than you. Shops put their rookies on the lube rack, and these grease monkeys don't know s$#@ from Shinola! You're lucky if they don't over, or, under tighten your drain bolt and/or filter after putting your vehicle on a lift using the wrong jackpoints! And, don't get me started on double-gasketing!
There are many good tests on YouTube for oil filters as well. The premium filters from Purolator, Wix, Bosch, K&N, and even Fram, do well. Since each manufacturer has several lines from economy to premium, how much one spends is more critical than which brand one chooses. I tend to go with Wix XP, K&N, or OEM. The OEM filters are rarely tested online for some reason.
I prefer a floorjack and jackstands to ramps for the same reasons listed in the posts above. The jack points are shown in the owner's manual and shop manuals. There is a center point on the front, main cross-member, and you use the differential as the jackpoint for the rear.
If you want the job done right...do it yourself! Nobody cares more about your vehicle than you. Shops put their rookies on the lube rack, and these grease monkeys don't know s$#@ from Shinola! You're lucky if they don't over, or, under tighten your drain bolt and/or filter after putting your vehicle on a lift using the wrong jackpoints! And, don't get me started on double-gasketing!
The following users liked this post:
Bgw70 (03-30-22)
#57
Pole Position
#58
The oil expands as it gets hotter. Cold oil could be lower on the dipstick than the F line. Often the car manufacturers say that you should check your oil level when the oil is warm and after the car has set for a few minutes after turning it off. That is when the level should be at the F or full level.
Last edited by Oldsig; 02-10-21 at 08:57 PM.
#59
Lexus Test Driver
If anyone needs Toyota oil filters at a reasonable price…$5ea.
this is my third set of 10…they last me about four years, but now that we retired, might be five years.
this is my third set of 10…they last me about four years, but now that we retired, might be five years.
Last edited by Bgw70; 03-25-22 at 02:56 AM.
#60
Pole Position