Stereo project begins...
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: CA
dumb question, but is there a way to simply replace the current amp (in the trunk) with your new one? I understand, the OEM amp is connected to lots of things not audio, but considering the lack of usable space, swapping the new for the old amp would be the way to go, if at all possible.
that said, I bet you know what you're doing, peter.
so, what are the problems with 'swapping' rather than 'adding' the amps?
that said, I bet you know what you're doing, peter.
so, what are the problems with 'swapping' rather than 'adding' the amps?
PS - I don't think the stock amp is being used. I glanced at the schematic and didn't recall seeing a need to use it (at least ot for what I need my system to do)
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: CA
Sorry this took so long. I've been moving and things have been pretty hectic haha.
But the installation is almost done. I still have to finish putting in a few things such as a more powerful amp for my sub and a satellite radio hook up.
Once my SC was in the shop and half way through installation, the shop realize that in order to get a working top screen (where our stock nav is), I needed a different unit than the JVC. I ended up getting a clarion nx700 double din unit. The reason being because it is capable of playing on two different screens at once (i.e. DVD up top screen and navigation on bottom screen).
I am planning on taking the car in again when all of my parts are in, which should be sometime this week. Once I have everything in, I will be sure to have a write up on my system.
BTW, I have a bunch of mark levinson parts sitting around that are ready to be shipped out to a new home
But the installation is almost done. I still have to finish putting in a few things such as a more powerful amp for my sub and a satellite radio hook up.
Once my SC was in the shop and half way through installation, the shop realize that in order to get a working top screen (where our stock nav is), I needed a different unit than the JVC. I ended up getting a clarion nx700 double din unit. The reason being because it is capable of playing on two different screens at once (i.e. DVD up top screen and navigation on bottom screen).
I am planning on taking the car in again when all of my parts are in, which should be sometime this week. Once I have everything in, I will be sure to have a write up on my system.
BTW, I have a bunch of mark levinson parts sitting around that are ready to be shipped out to a new home
My head unit isn't as flashy, but what i do like about it is what you were saying, which is to have at least one know to control the volume. As you can see, mine has one HUGE ****. The center of it is is a pushbutton that makes it easy to scrolll through the other settings (like bass/ treble). I would always want a **** or at least some buttons in a car stereo for ergonomic control...although it's not as nice looking as the Clarion!
So when yours is finished, you'll be able to push a button so that the video signals going to the top screen and button screen will flip?
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: CA
Gald a solution was found!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Looks great so far-- AS you know, I have the same set up in my back seat-- I wish I lived closer to you, I would love to see (and hear) the finished product! Do you know what the max depth is for the rear side speakers? I'm thinking of matching / upgrading to my DCG's I put in the front.
Last edited by bobcat1; Aug 12, 2010 at 06:07 AM. Reason: already posted similar
Sounds good. I'll PM you my phone number and we can set up some time to meet this weekend. The closest Home Depot to me is on 17th and Wilson in Costa Mesa
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: PQ
Interesting info, Peter Klim
I think they must have kept a module/circuit board (with the radio connectors) to keep the data/digital signal flowing through TX wires. If we look at this diagram (thanks GammaLex
) :
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-its-here.html
we can see that the radio (p. 321) is part of the navi system with 3 connections : ATX (to the navi screen), TXS (to the combination meter, which include speedometer info, p.320), and TX (to the amp, and ultimately the navi ecu, p.322). So the ML amp must also stay connected and powered on too to keep navi functionality (but the ML amp could be bypassed anyway, or LOCs can be used between the ML amp and an aftermarket amp).
Do you think your installer could tell you what they kept? If it involved lot of unsoldering inside the radio or just unscrewing a board? And how this part is always powered on? This would be very pertinent info.
Thanks!
Denis
I think they must have kept a module/circuit board (with the radio connectors) to keep the data/digital signal flowing through TX wires. If we look at this diagram (thanks GammaLex
) :https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-its-here.html
we can see that the radio (p. 321) is part of the navi system with 3 connections : ATX (to the navi screen), TXS (to the combination meter, which include speedometer info, p.320), and TX (to the amp, and ultimately the navi ecu, p.322). So the ML amp must also stay connected and powered on too to keep navi functionality (but the ML amp could be bypassed anyway, or LOCs can be used between the ML amp and an aftermarket amp).
Do you think your installer could tell you what they kept? If it involved lot of unsoldering inside the radio or just unscrewing a board? And how this part is always powered on? This would be very pertinent info.
Thanks!
Denis
Last edited by dracip; Aug 19, 2010 at 07:19 AM.
Interesting info, Peter Klim
I think they must have kept a module/circuit board (with the radio connectors) to keep the data/digital signal flowing through TX wires. If we look at this diagram (thanks GammaLex ) :
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-its-here.html
we can see that the radio (p. 321) is part of the navi system with 3 connections : ATX (to the navi screen), TXS (to the combination meter, which include speedometer info, p.320), and TX (to the amp, and ultimately the navi ecu, p.322). So the ML amp must also stay connected and powered on too to keep navi functionality (but the ML amp could be bypassed anyway, or LOCs can be used between the ML amp and an aftermarket amp).
Do you think your installer could tell you what they kept? If it involved lot of unsoldering inside the radio or just unscrewing a board? And how this part is always powered on? This would be very pertinent info.
Thanks!
Denis
I think they must have kept a module/circuit board (with the radio connectors) to keep the data/digital signal flowing through TX wires. If we look at this diagram (thanks GammaLex
) :https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-its-here.html
we can see that the radio (p. 321) is part of the navi system with 3 connections : ATX (to the navi screen), TXS (to the combination meter, which include speedometer info, p.320), and TX (to the amp, and ultimately the navi ecu, p.322). So the ML amp must also stay connected and powered on too to keep navi functionality (but the ML amp could be bypassed anyway, or LOCs can be used between the ML amp and an aftermarket amp).
Do you think your installer could tell you what they kept? If it involved lot of unsoldering inside the radio or just unscrewing a board? And how this part is always powered on? This would be very pertinent info.
Thanks!
Denis
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: PQ
here?
I meant no disrespect, I just did a little research to maybe narrow down the search on this part, and maybe I'm completely off track. But it seems we're both (and some other members too) eager to know how it works, don't we? And maybe it's easier to do than re-locate the HU somewhere in the car or performing surgery in the dash electronics
.
Nice SC BTW
I meant no disrespect, I just did a little research to maybe narrow down the search on this part, and maybe I'm completely off track. But it seems we're both (and some other members too) eager to know how it works, don't we?
And maybe it's easier to do than re-locate the HU somewhere in the car or performing surgery in the dash electronics.Nice SC BTW
Pole Position
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 266
Likes: 4
From: NC
mIStaboi,
I did the entire upgrade as ZGone described just with different components. I have the entire trunk buttoned up so getting to the amp isn't going to happen unless it's for repair.
Here's my recommendation: Take a digital electronics meter, set it to DC. Connect the black meter lead to the chassis ground (any metal in trunk) and use the other (red) lead to search for a 12VDC signal at the amp. When you find it turn the ML HU off and see if the 12VDC goes to 0VDC. If it does you have a switching - amp turn on signal. Doesn't matter if it's gray. What matters is it turns on/off with the HU. Since it's a signal level line there is no power drain (almost none) on it so the chances of overloading anything are 'nil.
Good Luck!
I did the entire upgrade as ZGone described just with different components. I have the entire trunk buttoned up so getting to the amp isn't going to happen unless it's for repair.
Here's my recommendation: Take a digital electronics meter, set it to DC. Connect the black meter lead to the chassis ground (any metal in trunk) and use the other (red) lead to search for a 12VDC signal at the amp. When you find it turn the ML HU off and see if the 12VDC goes to 0VDC. If it does you have a switching - amp turn on signal. Doesn't matter if it's gray. What matters is it turns on/off with the HU. Since it's a signal level line there is no power drain (almost none) on it so the chances of overloading anything are 'nil.
Good Luck!
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