Forgot to add that I didn't buy the reverse module; I actually LIKE the way it responds better in reverse, too. I back into a tight spot in my garage to park, and it's on an incline, so the dead-spot made it real touchy... now it's gone.

 

I was just thinking that is seems like there's a whole lotta interest in this device.... whoever wants to buy them should post-up a list of buyers here and present a GB-offer to the seller. I'm sure if an 'agent' of CL hits up the seller with a potential large order he'll lower the per-unit price...

 

Here's a pic of the Blitz box label showing the part#, etc. Sorry for the crappy quality; I used my MacBook cam and it's not the best...(GammaLex: If you're using Photobooth on your Mac, under your Edit menu click on 'Auto Flip New Photos' and they won't be taken in mirror-image.)

 

Thanks INTDiamond Damn now that I know this works I found the TOMS unit for 200 pounds so its about $330 USD I wish I would found this seller before. All my TOMS braces will coming from him. Aqua hes your neighbor lol you would be using a TOMS unit now free shipping just 15% VAT damn brit tax
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOMs-linear-th...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Thanks for the great info.

 

Haha all my farting around and I can buy it local

Cheers for all the great info in this thread.

 

Installed my Blitz one today the 10405 thanks to intdiamond for helping Jolin figure out which one works.

Oh and cheers Gamma for getting Dave at Prolex to contact me.

Install is a PITA cause theres no damn room to get down to the connector, in the end I lost my temper with it, jammed a screwdriver in the plug and pulled it out

2 minutes later all working

Had a quick 5 minute drive and its pretty good, well worth having

 

I installed mine today. Yes it is hard to get throttle connector located above
the accelerator pedal. I was patient and made sure I inserted a small metal pick I have into the conenctor to release it. came right out. Then according
to the instructions I used my pick tool and removed the oem rubber gasket that was on the female part of the cars connector. [ I am not sure why the tell you to remove the gasket but I did what they said. I then plugged in the male connector from the new harness into the oem female . Wrapped electric tape around the connector. Then plugged in the other side of the supplied harness into the male oem conenctor. I paid attention to make sure that the caution label on both connectors of the supplied harness was installed face up and oriented with the lock of the oem connectors. I wire tied the both connectors in place and made sure they were secured away from the accelerator pedal. Ok now I took off the consol cover by first removing the entire trim panel that houses the heated swtches. With this out of the way and I removed the shifter ball and cigarette wire connector also snapped out the radio door switch .Then I removed the consol trim panel with the ash tray and cup holders . I fished the other end of the harness from the connectors I just installed into the console area and l plugged in to the units main brain box there is a 4 pin and a 2 pin connector that plugs into the brain { small about 2 1/2 " square ]

Now I took the ash tray insert out of the ashtray I then used a drill and made a hole in the bottom left side of the ash tray housing [ just below where there is light bulb that lights up the ash tray area ] I had chosen the left side of the ashtray when looking at it with cigarette lighter to the left because my plan was to install the small led and switch controller into the ash tray area.. I HAD TO DRILL THE ASHTRAY HOUSING FROM THE BACK NOT THROUGH THE ASH TRAY. IT IS MUCH EASIER TO DRILL FROM THE OUTSIDE AND SINCE THE ASH TRAY INSERT WAS OUT AND I WAS ABLE TO TAKE THE ENTIRE TRIM PANEL TO A WORK BENCH. [ Hint ] I also removed the actual ash tray assemble by unscrewing 4 small phillips head screws. This allowed me to now drill the ash tray and avoid any chance of damage to the console trim panel. Then I inserted the controllers 10 pin connector through the front of the ash tray and pulled all of the wire through. Since the connector is a 10 pin wide connector I made sure the hole I made in the ashtray would allow me to insert the conenctor side ways and allow me enough room to slightly press the connectors wires to the side this would allow me to just make the hole large enough to fit.

I pluged the 10 pin connector into the remianing connector of the brain. I found that I had enough wire harness supplied from the kit to be able to thread from the accelerator into the console and I located the brain directly underneath where the heated trim control panel would sit . I used velcro tape and pressed the brain to right side of the console right up against it. All the wires were routed so they would not interfer with anything. I then found a piece of wood that I cut and fit to place it into the ash tray [ I did not put the actual ash tray insert back in ] The wood was used to make it so I had a good foundation in order to use double face tape to hold the controller in place.I used epoxy to hold the wood in place in the ash tray housing and then I cut a piece of rubber [ from old mouse pad ] that woudl fit and cover the entire area where the wood was. I made it so now the wood was hidden I glued the rubber to the wood. Now double face tape and I pressed the controller in place with the wire routed to the left and out the hole I originally drilled . During the process I measured the wood and the rubber to make sure that when it was in place I would be able to close the ash tray door and it would not rattle around. When I was all done I now had the controller hidden in the ash tray I never use [ non smoker ] The cigarette lighter is still in place and can be used to plug in cell phone etc. [ The controller sits into a natural lip in the plastic of the ash tray housing that just so happens to be exactly where the controller needs to be. So with the tape in place and the controller sitting in the lip it will not move and will not rattlle. It is very visible when driving since the LED digits are large and green. The control switches on/off [ mode switch up and down /eco sp1 sp2 sp3 ] are easy to reach and are well lit up for night driving.

Well now that I have obsessed in how to install it and where to locate the controller I quess I will tell you how it worked.

I realize that it does not make the car faster and I was wondering what effect it would have. FANTASTIC THE THROTTLE IS MUCH MORE RESPONSIVE
ITS DOWN RIGHT UNCANNY . I did not know what to expect. I am sure we all have installed mods and afterwords have a hard time telling if they really made any differance at all. This mod was like a light bulb went off. I crusied through all the different modes eco sp1 sp2 sp3 . Even the eco mode is better then using our stock power ect switch . You can feel the differance
immediatley .

At the end of the day I have a much more responsive car with a hidden controller and a quality harness [ looks like oem ] and device that was plug and play. I did evrythiing I was told to do and i had no dreaded dash light or check engine light or error come on . They do caution you not to turn on the ignition untill all connectors are in place

I will take pictures of the controller mounted in the ash tray tomorrow.


That was a mouth full It actually was kind of fun to do .


Buddy

 

Dang mrblister you really went to town

Cant wait to see pics. After I plugged mine in I just stuck it to the nearest flat surface.. although reading your post I think I will put a cable tie on those connections just incase

 

Aquanuke

I went to town and back. Every time I add a mod my wife thinks I am kidding her. She never can see a differance. Luxlink 1/4 window mod none of this shows . She cant tell new tiress from old. She thinks the ash tray is for coins .

I hope to get pictures up on cl Monday Night

Buddy

 

Any update on the pictures? Are you all still happy with the unit? I have an 02 which I bought new and the lag has always bothered me.

Many thanks,

Bill

 

I'm very happy with it; if I forget to turn it on, the car feels like it's running on 4 cylinders when I hit the gas!

 

It is nice to know that there is an aftermarket device to resolve the issue. It is also nice to know that I wasn't the only one who noticed it.
However, I did discover that by running it with the performance switch in the PWR mode through a couple of tanks of gas, that it reduced the lag to a semi acceptable delay. I still don't like it, but it is fairly tolerable now. Computers aren't always our friends...

 

I've always driven in the PWR mode and this device makes a night and day difference pertaining to the lag, regardless of the mode.

 

Have any of you looked into the SLR Motorsports Performance chip? It is only $70. It claims to add 50 hp and 3 to 6 mpg.