**WTB** A/C lines...
i need the two lines that run under the radiator and follow the pass frame rail back to the firewall... one of them has the low pressure fitting on it. they are not able to be sepparated, and the dealer want $260 my cost for them. if anyone has them please let me know... Gazi... im looking at you.
thanks guys.
thanks guys.
I just installed the same lines on my car a few hours ago, I tried looking for used ones for a little while but it's so hot outside i ended up just paying the $260 from Lexus for them and i had them the next day at the Toyota dealer i work for. Its really worth the extra money because you get both high and low side lines, o rings, new pressure switch and all brackets and insulation. Mine ended up leaking on both the high and low sides right below the radiatior due to a lot of pitting from all the salt here in the winters. I also highly recommend a new Reciever/dryer since you will be opening the system for atleast an hour to install the new lines, it's an extra 30 bucks and you just have to remove the drivers headlight to install it. then use a good a/c machine to deep vaccumm all the rest of the moisture out of the system before you charge it up. I haven't had working a/c in my car in probably a year and it's so nice now, drove home with the thermometer still in the center vent and was seeing around 42 degrees. chilly!
thanks for the heads up... but im certian i car get the drier out without taking the light out.
mine broke in the same place... but i think its cause thats where my car hits if i go over a speed bump too fast.
if nothing turns up, ill get it from lexus. i figure ill have it all done within an hour or so one night after work... does that seem right?
thanks again.
mine broke in the same place... but i think its cause thats where my car hits if i go over a speed bump too fast.
if nothing turns up, ill get it from lexus. i figure ill have it all done within an hour or so one night after work... does that seem right?
thanks again.
It took me about 2 hours including the time to vac the system down and recharge it. One more thing to look out for when doing this job, where the 2 lines hookup on the bottom left side of the car there is a very flimsy metal bracket with a stud coming down for the high side line and a nut welded to it for the high side line/hose. When i went to break the nut loose from the high side the whole bracket twisted and i was unable to use it to hold the fittings together with the new stuff, nothing would line up. I ended up just getting rid of it and using 2 long bolts/nuts to secure the fittings together and then zip tied them so they won't rattle under there.
I had a leak on one of the lines discussed above, looked like pitting(salt on the black steel metal bracket) and rubbing of the aluminum tube with that rusted bracket under the radiator area.
I removed the rusted brackets, located the leak (had dye in the system).
Then, put heat sinks on both sides of the aluminum tube, sanded, wire brushed, used an aluminum solder that you use a propane torch with and used a narrow flame.
Repainted the bracked with Por-15 rust paint. Insulated the contact part with rubber inner tube material and had the system recharged , new drier, vacummed.
So far so good.(its been two months)
I removed the rusted brackets, located the leak (had dye in the system).
Then, put heat sinks on both sides of the aluminum tube, sanded, wire brushed, used an aluminum solder that you use a propane torch with and used a narrow flame.
Repainted the bracked with Por-15 rust paint. Insulated the contact part with rubber inner tube material and had the system recharged , new drier, vacummed.
So far so good.(its been two months)
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