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Yeah looks like it would work for the 1UZ too with washers to raise it. How much did you guys pay?
So I started tearing things apart, and I'm not sure if its' refreshing to see everything is stock and original on the car. Rear heater hoses have never been changed with the original clamps on them. Anyways, people online quote this job @ 3 hours and I will definitely take longer than that and I've done this before!
At this point 2 hours in, I've removed the throttle body while leaving the bottom coolant line attached, and I have all of the bolts/nuts removed for the y-pipe, EGR pipe big nut is removed and I've detached the EGR connection to the y-pipe. All that is left (and is preventing me from moving forward with y-pipe removal) is removing the two lower EGR bolts to the head. This thing is a PITA and makes me love my GTE so much more.. Charcoal canister has been removed as well. Will attempt further removal tomorrow after some sleep.
Paid $169 for mine... could've gotten it cheaper, but I preferred a local pick up, 3 different stealerships around here at various prices and this was the cheapest... One was $200 no type of discounts...
Going to do another coat or two of spray paint on the pedal assembly, and planning to do valve cover gaskets/sparkplugs/wires in the morning and start my re-assembly. Once everything is back together and confirmed fixed/test drove i plan on throwing it on jack stands and doing an oil change/suspension/front TT brakes and have it finished by the weekend when I go back to work. Going to trade a spare motor to a buddy in exchange for fender rolling, i understand the risk and I feel with the condition of the paint (it will need to be repainted some day) I'm willing to roll over cutting, and have the car fully repainted later.
Another 2-3 hours in and both valve cover gaskets are done, new grommets; fipg on the cam corners, spark plugs, wires, cap/rotor, pcv valve/grommet. Should just take one more day to finish putting it all together. You can really tell number 6 wasn't firing well with the nasty electrode, and I'm not sure if these were OEM plugs or not. Took out denso double platinums (PK16R11) and put in denso iridiums (SK16R11)
throttle body water hose was a pain to put on. I feel like I needed some 7" bent needle nose pliers to do it correctly but its' all back together. Also changed my vacuum hose routing a little bit so I didn't have to use any caps, rear throttle body vacuum source is going to the ACIS valve under the intake mnaifold, and the heater control valve is connected to the top throttle body port, and then I looped two sets of ports. Runs great, idles so smooth you can't even tell the car is turned on when you're inside it.
With all the fires surrounding my city I think I'm going to hold off on suspension/calipers to avoid spending any more time in the smoke. Air quality is extremely poor where I'm at right now.
Cabin air filters were so easy to install, no tools needed and only took me about 2-3 minutes. None previously in there, and a lot of pine needles. Also my new 99-00 RX300 steering wheel came. Waiting for the adapter harness to come in from japan in a few days.
Figured I would add a small update, 200 miles on the car and it is running butter smooth and no check engine/EGR code with the resistor I put in. Finally been enjoying it. Also my airbag adapter came from japan but smoke is still so thick you can't see 100 ft infront of you, so I'm going to delay on updates still.
With how complete everything is up front I'm not in the biggest mood to cut it up to try and fit a large FMIC; especially with no goals in the immediate future beyond 400-450. So I decided to jump on a 91-95 SMIC setup from a soarer for real cheap. Just need to clean it up and probably replace the couplers with some new silicone. Also comes with the air filter box which looks like it will work perfect with my modified vvt-i intake w/ MAF on my 2jzgte.
To my surprise it came with all the hoses, just missing one or two hose clamps and maybe a few bolts. Nothing appears broken which is sweet. Will allow me to easily retain the oem undercovers and not have to mess with A/C lines or P/S cooler
Thanks! Started having a wobble in the rear end, pulled off the tire and realized the left rear had broken some internal bands and was ballooning. Thankfully I have a full set of chrome spares from a previous GS300 so I put one on and everything feels smooth now. Also checked my rear bushings and ball joints and everything looks good.
And the bad news is I'm being forced to buy a house much earlier than anticipated or move by spring so I'll be postponing updates for a while until I get settled again.
Very nice car I had a Baltic blue limited I that is unfortunately no longer with me was a beautiful car favorite color the Baltic blue is limited edition with less then 500 in each 300/400 platform and you should have a limited edition badge on the cup holder the color code came from the Supra
Thanks! Yeah my door code is the correct color showing its a true baltic blue 752 paint code, but i do not have the limited edition badge on the cup holder. According to what i've read and found there were a little over 15k SC's produced in 1995 but 455 baltic blue color codes (199 SC300's). Might not be the RAREST combo like some lower production years in a manual trans, but I bet when you look at a purely production stand point of color codes the baltic blue is pretty rare. I don't think the numbers are low purely from a unloved paint color, as this color blows away the teal mist metallic which you find only on 1995s' and you see those a LOT more.
