My new aftermarket double din doesn’t have sound because amp won’t turn on but same wiring as previous aftermarket single din, First off to say, I bought this from my friend (95’ SC400) knowing and helping him fix it and what was done to it, thank god he fixed most of the problems but we installed his speakers in the rear deck and new sub, all kicker. We installed a cheap aftermarket single din and jlc or some company amp but the wiring was all cut from previous owner years ago and so he took it to a shop to fix it. They connected from my understanding the factory and the new amp together, or tied in to the same circuit or wiring, I have a amp remo wire (remote or trigger wire) coming to the front of the car behind the radio from the new amp, however there is the stock amp wire (pink and blue) I tried to connect the amp wire coming off the back of my new double din (hate single dins lol) to the new blue amp remote wire and the factory amp wire (that’s how it was with the old radio too, but forgot because I ended up soldering all the new connections, don’t like cheap crimps), however can’t get the amp to power on... so I disconnected the blue remote wire and I used the antenna wire that was not connected and barely grazed it across the amp wire and it powered on but only when touched and let off right away so it seems it can’t have consistent power? Just needs to know, got power and turn on and got power again and turn off? So I ended up wiring the amp remote wire to the accessories wire so it powers on when the key is in but now I get a loud thump from my sub and a constant ringing or buzz from my amp, I can’t get it to work together

 

If you're getting any loud pops or thumps with your current amp remote turn wiring I recommend ordering a PAC TR-4 low voltage remote turn-on unit. It's a pretty cheap and small unit that will either replace your aftermarket head unit's built in amp remote turn-on wire/circuit or will add this type of circuit to any aftermarket head unit that doesn't have its own amp remote turn on wire.

It has four wires: +12v output --> Amplifier remote, low voltage trigger wire of your choice, Ground and +12V Constant from the vehicle. Its purpose is to add in a one second delay before turning your amplifier on and a one second delay before it turns off.

It works really well with my VDO/Continental 1-DIN aftermarket head unit which didn't come with its own amp remote turn-on wire (and I'll add that it's one of the few truly good 1-DIN head units both visually/aesthetically and functionally: classic 90's looks, dials and buttons with modern features. A few aftermarket 1-DINs out there are good but most aren't).

Now I will say that my experience relates to retaining the stock Pioneer sub, OEM Pioneer sub-amp, OEM main Pioneer amplifier and a Beat-Sonic adapter specifically made for the SC300/400/Soarer for the majority of the wiring to my head unit... however the wiring principles are much the same.

Since you seem to have mostly replaced the stock Pioneer amp, subwoofer and sub-amp (unless your SC came with Nakamichi sound from the factory) I would refer you to Raine's threads regarding how to wire an aftermarket double-din head unit into the early 92-00 SC's. He has covered the lion's share in tremendous detail.