When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
97-SC300
Yep. The plastic block that held the stud on that end broke off and the little clips between the end screws were failing also. The only other option at that point is to get a whole new piece and wait for the plastic to break on IT. A bolt and a nut aren’t coming off. Soon, all of the trim will be held on this way, it’ll look BA.
Sweet bro cant go wrong at that price tho... I just got an sc400 1996, my first car and it is white too. Plan on drifting it but I do not know how yet, I only know how to go fast in it.... But I will learn soon and post vids~
I decided, since it was two hoses and a few bolts, to remove the EGR valve to see if there were any noticeable problems. I don’t have any fault codes. Once I removed the valve I saw this plate between it and the intake manifold.
That small hole goes up and into the intake and was almost completely blocked with carbon deposits.
So I chipped out all the carbon gunk and cleaned the EGR and reinstalled them and ran the car up to temp. There is a very noticeable improvement in the idle. It’s so smooth. The exhaust even smells like a regular car and not like a pile of crap I got to run on sewage.
Small update;
I took the front bumper off to bolt on a tow bar so I can take it to events and the emissions testing station. After it was off, I saw some superfluous equipment that I took off. Also, I put on the AC eliminator belt.
Ive been back and forth to the testers 3 times; all failures. It was 117 degrees here the other day, I decided it was perfect weather to take off my exhaust to visually inspect my cats.
I’m pretty sure I’m not supposed to be able to see the upstream O2 sensor that clearly.
Too funny about the cats, I've had the same thing happen to me on cars in the past. Good score on the diff! Always good to have an extra around. I'd go through one every 2 years or so in my old cressida. Once you weld them they tend to destroy themselves after a while (granted I drove that car a bunch).
It’s been a while and I’ve done a lot. That diff I bought is now in the car and I experimented with using hockey pucks to stiffen some rear subframe mounts and diff mounts, after an apparent construction adhesive fail.
Looks like wadded up rubber bands. I’ll probably end up with a set of poly mounts, I don’t like the idea of solid mounts.
I decided that hockey pucks were better.
Did 4x pic to keep photo volume down.
I started by heating the mounts with a torch until the innards slid out. Then machined three(2 and a half) hockey pucks to fit inside the mount. Last I pounded the insert into the center mindful of its orientation.
While I was test fitting the subframe mounts, I found another location where pucks might work a bit better to stiffen things up. I read that the rear end on these can feel a bit vague due to the luxury set-up that came from the factory.
its been a while but a lot has happened. Bought another set of mustang wheels with some proper drift tires. Federal SS595’s for the back and 595RS-RR’s for the fronts; both 225/45-17.
I gave up on passing emissions in order to get the vanity plate I wanted, for a joke I wrote that almost no one would ever get.
i towed the car to a drift-n-drags event in November. it was fun. I learned a ton. For example:
1. most street cars aren’t set up for drifting, duh right? This car is one of those that isn’t, yet. We have to ruin the cars streetability and set it up for skidability.
2. More power is needed. This car doesn’t have enough power to skid on those fresh sticky tires.
3. More handbrake power is needed. The factory cable and shoe handbrake sucks!
4. More steering angle is needed.
