Aftermarket stereo
Leave the speakers alone for now. They're plenty good to work with an aftermarket head unit and amp, and you can upgrade them later if desired. That includes the sub, which is pretty robust.
Don't bother trying to use the Nak amp with an aftermarket head unit. I don't think anyone has fully solved that riddle yet. If you want to keep the stock layout (4 speakers and a sub), get a 5-channel amp. 40-50 watts/ch is plenty for your goals. There's no need to rewire the speakers. The wires to them from the stock amp will get re-used with your new amp. All it needs to function is power and an input signal from the head unit.
Most aftermarket head units will raise the antenna as soon as they're turned on, which is pretty darn annoying when making frequent stops running errands. A few people have turned their old volume ***** into amp gain controls, but I've yet to see anyone document just how. I opened one up and it wasn't obvious to me which wires go where within the circuit board. A simple toggle switch for the antenna, mounted discretely, would be my approach for infrequent radio listening.
Don't bother trying to use the Nak amp with an aftermarket head unit. I don't think anyone has fully solved that riddle yet. If you want to keep the stock layout (4 speakers and a sub), get a 5-channel amp. 40-50 watts/ch is plenty for your goals. There's no need to rewire the speakers. The wires to them from the stock amp will get re-used with your new amp. All it needs to function is power and an input signal from the head unit.
Most aftermarket head units will raise the antenna as soon as they're turned on, which is pretty darn annoying when making frequent stops running errands. A few people have turned their old volume ***** into amp gain controls, but I've yet to see anyone document just how. I opened one up and it wasn't obvious to me which wires go where within the circuit board. A simple toggle switch for the antenna, mounted discretely, would be my approach for infrequent radio listening.
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 432
Likes: 17
From: Ontario
I started the stereo portion of this journey by working on my parts car today. I figured I'd practice with the expendable car first.
The parts car has an aftermarket double din Kenwood, a DDX512. In the trunk is a sub box with a 10" kicker and an Alpine amp, MRP-350. I fired it up and no static. I assume the factory sub is not connected but will figure that out tomorrow. the Kenwood install was pretty rough, not as pretty as examples shown here.
I pulled the console and have the Kenwood and HVAC detached but still wired up. A bit of a dogs breakfast of wiring back there. I'm going to trace things around and may get lucky with additional hardware. I will be putting in my newly purchased Kenwood in and selling this DDX512. I am also not going to use the sub box, as I'll be needing the trunk space. I may attempt to mount the kicker in the rear tray.
I also pulled apart one of the programmable key's from the parts car today. I think I may be able to disassemble, insert a new blank and put back together with the goal of cutting the blank and reprogramming to make a spare key for my driver.
The parts car has an aftermarket double din Kenwood, a DDX512. In the trunk is a sub box with a 10" kicker and an Alpine amp, MRP-350. I fired it up and no static. I assume the factory sub is not connected but will figure that out tomorrow. the Kenwood install was pretty rough, not as pretty as examples shown here.
I pulled the console and have the Kenwood and HVAC detached but still wired up. A bit of a dogs breakfast of wiring back there. I'm going to trace things around and may get lucky with additional hardware. I will be putting in my newly purchased Kenwood in and selling this DDX512. I am also not going to use the sub box, as I'll be needing the trunk space. I may attempt to mount the kicker in the rear tray.
I also pulled apart one of the programmable key's from the parts car today. I think I may be able to disassemble, insert a new blank and put back together with the goal of cutting the blank and reprogramming to make a spare key for my driver.
Last edited by Returd; Jan 25, 2017 at 03:46 PM.
^ That's a nice feature, for anyone shopping for an older 2-DIN unit, or if confirming that Kenwood carried it forward to newer models. I still haven't found a head unit with quite the feature set I'm looking for. The DDX512 is halfway there (backup camera input, volume ****, full preamp outs), but missing a few checklist items (mech-less, SD card). The only ones currently on the market that meet all my criteria are the uber cheap Chinese ones (including a lot of formerly good brands such as Blaupunkt, Clarion, Nakamichi, and Jensen) that all appear to be made by the same company. The waiting game continues...
There aren't a whole lot of subs that will fit in the stock location, due to the minimal mounting depth available. You need something very shallow mount, or build it up above the parcel shelf like some have done. If the P.O. built it into a box, it probably wasn't a shallow mount model, because why bother with that limitation then?
There aren't a whole lot of subs that will fit in the stock location, due to the minimal mounting depth available. You need something very shallow mount, or build it up above the parcel shelf like some have done. If the P.O. built it into a box, it probably wasn't a shallow mount model, because why bother with that limitation then?
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 432
Likes: 17
From: Ontario
^ That's a nice feature, for anyone shopping for an older 2-DIN unit, or if confirming that Kenwood carried it forward to newer models. I still haven't found a head unit with quite the feature set I'm looking for. The DDX512 is halfway there (backup camera input, volume ****, full preamp outs), but missing a few checklist items (mech-less, SD card). The only ones currently on the market that meet all my criteria are the uber cheap Chinese ones (including a lot of formerly good brands such as Blaupunkt, Clarion, Nakamichi, and Jensen) that all appear to be made by the same company. The waiting game continues...
There aren't a whole lot of subs that will fit in the stock location, due to the minimal mounting depth available. You need something very shallow mount, or build it up above the parcel shelf like some have done. If the P.O. built it into a box, it probably wasn't a shallow mount model, because why bother with that limitation then?
There aren't a whole lot of subs that will fit in the stock location, due to the minimal mounting depth available. You need something very shallow mount, or build it up above the parcel shelf like some have done. If the P.O. built it into a box, it probably wasn't a shallow mount model, because why bother with that limitation then?
On the subject of rear view cameras, where would you mount the camera?
Most of them mount to the top of the license plate. The hardest part is finding one with a small enough connector to pass through the limited grommet options behind the tail lights, and a long enough wire to reach so the connector isn't exposed to the elements. That or drill a new hole closer to center. I eventually found one that fit the bill, but I haven't been able to hook it up and test it out yet.
Pole Position
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,085
Likes: 401
From: Nor CA
I ended up with a model where the camera was mounted in a license plate frame. Had to remove the bumper cover as to install the plate with the fasteners on the "inside" but the end result was really clean. Post some pics as you progress... Good luck...
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 432
Likes: 17
From: Ontario
I got delayed by a few days but pulled some of the interior out of the parts car today. Glad I did this car first as I broke a few tabs etc. Working in a cold garage isn't the best for plastic parts. I may be heating up panels with a hair dryer before popping panels on my driver.
So I have the back seat out but am confounded on how to get the package tray out. Both my cars have spoiler mounted 3rd brake lights, so there is no interior brake light. I pulled 2 press pins at the forward edge of the package tray and got the seat belt retainers out of the way but I'm missing something. I had a look from the underside from the trunk and didn't see anything obvious either. I've already damaged it a bit as the press board has gone brittle and want to get this right so I don't damage my driver.
What's the secret?
EDIT
Well I just watched a few irritating fan boy youtube clips and got my answer. Th rear interior panels must be removed to get the rear deck out. The video I watched only replaced the 2 rear 4" speakers, not the sub. They made spacers for the replacement speakers. I guess I'll find out if I also need them.
So I have the back seat out but am confounded on how to get the package tray out. Both my cars have spoiler mounted 3rd brake lights, so there is no interior brake light. I pulled 2 press pins at the forward edge of the package tray and got the seat belt retainers out of the way but I'm missing something. I had a look from the underside from the trunk and didn't see anything obvious either. I've already damaged it a bit as the press board has gone brittle and want to get this right so I don't damage my driver.
What's the secret?
EDIT
Well I just watched a few irritating fan boy youtube clips and got my answer. Th rear interior panels must be removed to get the rear deck out. The video I watched only replaced the 2 rear 4" speakers, not the sub. They made spacers for the replacement speakers. I guess I'll find out if I also need them.
Last edited by Returd; Jan 30, 2017 at 06:13 PM.
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The ends of the parcel shelf tuck under the back window trims. You have to either wiggle it out from under them, which likely will crack the underside of the fiberboard, or remove one of the trims. That requires removing the front seat belt's upper anchor, lower trim panel, and upper handle.
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 432
Likes: 17
From: Ontario
I spent a good part of the day pulling the interior out of my parts car, including the roof liner. Got the parcel shelf out without too much drama once the side panels were out.
The parts car had Nakamichi speaker boxes in the doors. One of the speakers was torn with a duct tape patch, awesome.
I assume the factory sub is a Nakamichi also. I assume everyone replaces the Nak sub due to incompatibility issues? My 10" kicker is too deep and will require about a 2" spacer (no surprise from what I've surfed so far).
I see no problems with the sub, so re-using would be nice but I assume that'll require a lot of hoop jumping and re-suing the Nak amp.
Anyway I'm going to mull on my options over a few beers tonight and get back at it tomorrow.
On the rear view camera, I'm going to mount it in the rear spoiler, dead center. I'll mock it up on the parts car.
I also pulled the drivers door and salvaged the hinge which was in decent shape. I used a floor jack and supplemented with rope/pulley on the window frame. The balance point of the door is pretty much where the the window frame transitions from diagonal to horizontal. I think I can swap hinges without pulling the door harness.
The parts car had Nakamichi speaker boxes in the doors. One of the speakers was torn with a duct tape patch, awesome.
I assume the factory sub is a Nakamichi also. I assume everyone replaces the Nak sub due to incompatibility issues? My 10" kicker is too deep and will require about a 2" spacer (no surprise from what I've surfed so far).
I see no problems with the sub, so re-using would be nice but I assume that'll require a lot of hoop jumping and re-suing the Nak amp.
Anyway I'm going to mull on my options over a few beers tonight and get back at it tomorrow.
On the rear view camera, I'm going to mount it in the rear spoiler, dead center. I'll mock it up on the parts car.
I also pulled the drivers door and salvaged the hinge which was in decent shape. I used a floor jack and supplemented with rope/pulley on the window frame. The balance point of the door is pretty much where the the window frame transitions from diagonal to horizontal. I think I can swap hinges without pulling the door harness.
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 432
Likes: 17
From: Ontario
I figured I'd add a useful link to a thread about the factory subs.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...arket-amp.html
From what I just read on here I may be able to re-use my factory Nak sub from my parts car as it's in good condition. I'll see what the Nak sub in my drive looks like in a few days. On the other hand I did a little searching on low profile 10" subs and they're pretty chaep. I may replace just to avoid having to replace a blown 25 year old sub in a year.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...arket-amp.html
From what I just read on here I may be able to re-use my factory Nak sub from my parts car as it's in good condition. I'll see what the Nak sub in my drive looks like in a few days. On the other hand I did a little searching on low profile 10" subs and they're pretty chaep. I may replace just to avoid having to replace a blown 25 year old sub in a year.
The Nak is just a regular ol' sub with slightly peculiar resistance. Most amps should be able to power it as long as you don't push major wattage, which doesn't sound like your goal anyway.
Is the door speaker's cone torn or just part of the surround? Most of the time, you wouldn't even know there's a torn surround by the SQ.
As for the door hinge, the harness passes through it, so you have to disconnect the three plugs in the footwell and pull them through first. It's pretty easy to figure out what goes where when you pull back the carpet. The grommet just pops out from the inside, then the wiring connectors get passed through one at a time.
Is the door speaker's cone torn or just part of the surround? Most of the time, you wouldn't even know there's a torn surround by the SQ.
As for the door hinge, the harness passes through it, so you have to disconnect the three plugs in the footwell and pull them through first. It's pretty easy to figure out what goes where when you pull back the carpet. The grommet just pops out from the inside, then the wiring connectors get passed through one at a time.
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 432
Likes: 17
From: Ontario
I've gone full retard and will be replacing the entire factory stereo, speakers and amp.
I'm wiring in new tweeters and 4" door speakers. What's the polarity of the factory speaker wires? the tweeters have a blue and a yellow wires ( I need to wire in a cross over).
the 4" have a tan and darker tan wire. I intend to connect at the kick panel and use the factory wires from there into the door.
I'm wiring in new tweeters and 4" door speakers. What's the polarity of the factory speaker wires? the tweeters have a blue and a yellow wires ( I need to wire in a cross over).
the 4" have a tan and darker tan wire. I intend to connect at the kick panel and use the factory wires from there into the door.
I've gone full retard and will be replacing the entire factory stereo, speakers and amp.
I'm wiring in new tweeters and 4" door speakers. What's the polarity of the factory speaker wires? the tweeters have a blue and a yellow wires ( I need to wire in a cross over).
the 4" have a tan and darker tan wire. I intend to connect at the kick panel and use the factory wires from there into the door.
I'm wiring in new tweeters and 4" door speakers. What's the polarity of the factory speaker wires? the tweeters have a blue and a yellow wires ( I need to wire in a cross over).
the 4" have a tan and darker tan wire. I intend to connect at the kick panel and use the factory wires from there into the door.
I currently have 2 pairs of 12 gauge wiring (overkill, but I had a lot sitting around in my garage) for my speakers and tweeters run through the harness since my cross-over is mounted in the rear section of the car. I was able to do the first pair of wires on the car, but the 2nd pair was a lot more challenging. After wasting almost 2 hours to do one side, I pulled the harness out on the other side and finished in 30 minutes.