New Lexus Owner. Please please help.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: CA
New Lexus Owner. Please please help.
I bought a 1992 SC400 yesterday and the driver door is stuck shut and the passenger window is stuck down.
Any suggestions? I took it to the Toyota dealership and it was just way too expensive.
Thank you .
Any suggestions? I took it to the Toyota dealership and it was just way too expensive.
Thank you .
you are going to have to take off the door panels and look inside. These are common issues. Door not opening is usually a broken little plastic clip on the door handle linkage. Window not going up is usually a regulator, but have a look and make sure it is on the track properly. Once you look inside both door panels, you will most likely see what is going on
This could be a failed door lock actuator. A bit pricey for the part alone. There is a DIY detailing how to replace it yourself but it is a chore.
If the internal solenoid hasn't failed and you can still hear the driver's side door locking and unlocking but can't open it, it's likely the small $2.00 plastic clip that holds the actuator rod in the door handle assembly.
HOWEVER, when that breaks there is the possibility that putting your electric window down can cause that little actuator rod, which sticks up and if hanging free will not be aligned in the right spot, to be bent or broken by the glass window coming down onto it.
No way to know what the condition is unless you open up the door panel to inspect it.
I've done this to both the driver and passenger side of my SC. It's an annoying repair. There is JUST enough room to remove the old lock actuator and install a new one. The FSM will instruct you to remove the window and regulator first and you will understand why once you get in there. However avoiding that extra process can and has been documented. It's just difficult.
Once done, however, it's good for another 18 years or so. Oh, and definitely replace that little plastic clip and keep a spare.
If the original lock actuator rod has miraculously not been damaged by the lowered window and the lock solenoid still clicks, all you need is a new $2.00 clip. It's worth noting, however, that eventually all SC door lock actuator assemblies need replacing, usually after 18-19 or so years of use. Longevity varies but they have a very long service life. The cars are just older by now.
The window motor or regulator failing on top of that would be a separate issue. However if BOTH the door lock actuator and the window motor/regulator need to be replaced, it actually makes fixing the door lock issue easier: you remove the window and regulator first, THEN replace the door lock actuator assembly, THEN install the new window regulator and reinstall the glass.
All very careful and tedious but... once you've done it it's done for years.
As for the parts cost, I would definitely shop around the online discounted dealers.
If the internal solenoid hasn't failed and you can still hear the driver's side door locking and unlocking but can't open it, it's likely the small $2.00 plastic clip that holds the actuator rod in the door handle assembly.
HOWEVER, when that breaks there is the possibility that putting your electric window down can cause that little actuator rod, which sticks up and if hanging free will not be aligned in the right spot, to be bent or broken by the glass window coming down onto it.
No way to know what the condition is unless you open up the door panel to inspect it.
I've done this to both the driver and passenger side of my SC. It's an annoying repair. There is JUST enough room to remove the old lock actuator and install a new one. The FSM will instruct you to remove the window and regulator first and you will understand why once you get in there. However avoiding that extra process can and has been documented. It's just difficult.
Once done, however, it's good for another 18 years or so. Oh, and definitely replace that little plastic clip and keep a spare.
If the original lock actuator rod has miraculously not been damaged by the lowered window and the lock solenoid still clicks, all you need is a new $2.00 clip. It's worth noting, however, that eventually all SC door lock actuator assemblies need replacing, usually after 18-19 or so years of use. Longevity varies but they have a very long service life. The cars are just older by now.
The window motor or regulator failing on top of that would be a separate issue. However if BOTH the door lock actuator and the window motor/regulator need to be replaced, it actually makes fixing the door lock issue easier: you remove the window and regulator first, THEN replace the door lock actuator assembly, THEN install the new window regulator and reinstall the glass.
All very careful and tedious but... once you've done it it's done for years.
As for the parts cost, I would definitely shop around the online discounted dealers.
Last edited by KahnBB6; Mar 3, 2016 at 05:15 PM.
KhanBB6 is right. ^ I went through the same thing when I purchased my SC. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...ck-closed.html
Driver
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 3
From: TX
This could be a failed door lock actuator. A bit pricey for the part alone. There is a DIY detailing how to replace it yourself but it is a chore.
If the internal solenoid hasn't failed and you can still hear the driver's side door locking and unlocking but can't open it, it's likely the small $2.00 plastic clip that holds the actuator rod in the door handle assembly.
HOWEVER, when that breaks there is the possibility that putting your electric window down can cause that little actuator rod, which sticks up and if hanging free will not be aligned in the right spot, to be bent or broken by the glass window coming down onto it.
No way to know what the condition is unless you open up the door panel to inspect it.
I've done this to both the driver and passenger side of my SC. It's an annoying repair. There is JUST enough room to remove the old lock actuator and install a new one. The FSM will instruct you to remove the window and regulator first and you will understand why once you get in there. However avoiding that extra process can and has been documented. It's just difficult.
Once done, however, it's good for another 18 years or so. Oh, and definitely replace that little plastic clip and keep a spare.
If the original lock actuator rod has miraculously not been damaged by the lowered window and the lock solenoid still clicks, all you need is a new $2.00 clip. It's worth noting, however, that eventually all SC door lock actuator assemblies need replacing, usually after 18-19 or so years of use. Longevity varies but they have a very long service life. The cars are just older by now.
The window motor or regulator failing on top of that would be a separate issue. However if BOTH the door lock actuator and the window motor/regulator need to be replaced, it actually makes fixing the door lock issue easier: you remove the window and regulator first, THEN replace the door lock actuator assembly, THEN install the new window regulator and reinstall the glass.
All very careful and tedious but... once you've done it it's done for years.
As for the parts cost, I would definitely shop around the online discounted dealers.
If the internal solenoid hasn't failed and you can still hear the driver's side door locking and unlocking but can't open it, it's likely the small $2.00 plastic clip that holds the actuator rod in the door handle assembly.
HOWEVER, when that breaks there is the possibility that putting your electric window down can cause that little actuator rod, which sticks up and if hanging free will not be aligned in the right spot, to be bent or broken by the glass window coming down onto it.
No way to know what the condition is unless you open up the door panel to inspect it.
I've done this to both the driver and passenger side of my SC. It's an annoying repair. There is JUST enough room to remove the old lock actuator and install a new one. The FSM will instruct you to remove the window and regulator first and you will understand why once you get in there. However avoiding that extra process can and has been documented. It's just difficult.
Once done, however, it's good for another 18 years or so. Oh, and definitely replace that little plastic clip and keep a spare.
If the original lock actuator rod has miraculously not been damaged by the lowered window and the lock solenoid still clicks, all you need is a new $2.00 clip. It's worth noting, however, that eventually all SC door lock actuator assemblies need replacing, usually after 18-19 or so years of use. Longevity varies but they have a very long service life. The cars are just older by now.
The window motor or regulator failing on top of that would be a separate issue. However if BOTH the door lock actuator and the window motor/regulator need to be replaced, it actually makes fixing the door lock issue easier: you remove the window and regulator first, THEN replace the door lock actuator assembly, THEN install the new window regulator and reinstall the glass.
All very careful and tedious but... once you've done it it's done for years.
As for the parts cost, I would definitely shop around the online discounted dealers.
I will suggest that if you follow this advice remove the door cover very carefully and make sure you follow the DIY's here. A door panel is expensive but there is even a fix for that too.
welcome to CL
this is the link that fix my door problem:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...iy-w-pics.html
you will find more info from the sticky thread from the top of the forum
good luck
this is the link that fix my door problem:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...iy-w-pics.html
you will find more info from the sticky thread from the top of the forum
good luck
whatever you do do not roll down the window on the door that is not opening, it makes it worse as said it can break the rod, I have broken one myself been there done that welcome to the world of lexus.
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