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Changed the starter (massive PITA). To gain access to the bellhousing bolts I had to drop the subframes (one was cracked anyway). Then drop the motor under the car. Followed by removing the tranny and adapter plate to gain access to Two bolts. To put it all back togeather I got the privilege of muscling a tranny into place while on my back in the dirt, followed by trying to jack the motor into the correct position on uneven ground. Good times
Also removed about 2-3 pounds of of rat nest.
Changed the front subframes
Installed new;
Motor mounts
Timing belt
Tensioners
Waterpump
Distributor caps & rotors
Plugs & wires
And Valve cover gaskets
The old valve covers were pretty ragged, I sanded down a second set and installed them so the motor looks halfway decent.
Other problems to tackle include:
Door handle plastic tab broke(ls handles)
Still Limp mode issues after rebuilt ecu.
ABS stopped working and this is my only vehicle so, no bueno.
The clutch master cylinder had one of two bolts back off so its crooked and thanks to the prime design of the pedal bracket its impossible to fit a wrench over the bolt.
Windshield is cracked and spiderwebbing.
After installing the starter something is chatters very loudly for about 20 minutes of driving, I believe the trannys screwed.
Both exhaust manifolds are ****ed and have ruined threads for the cats. So both cats are held with one bolt, basically the entire exhaust needs to be replaced from the block back as the rest of the exhaust is severly smashed and cracked from contacting the ground.
Also thanks to all the accidents and rough experiances this chassis has had, its beginning to come apart and/or stress the spot welds, on the right wheel well the welds have ripped apart.
The brake and fuel lines to the rear of the car are no longer protected thanks to the shielding being ripped off, they are also dented and bent.
Windshield wipers and bug spray dont work, but its not the wiper assembly as I tryed replacing it with one that works.
drain and check the gear oil for metal shavings, I never knew the valley was filled with so much rat excrement or whatever that is. maybe a bolt is sitting in the valley now moving around?
I also had to replace the main crossmember, was it the aluminum crossmember that was cracked?
and whats with the ECU? I had replaced the ECU at once point because the car would start acting up (overheating ECU? does it start stalling and wanting to die with like 0 power? I had to pull over so many times.
cant wait to see the valve covers all done.
and what part of california are you in? you look like you are in the sierras? no smog out there right? delete the cats.
and if its the top bolt yeah that one is ridiculous to put on, IIRC that should have been a nylock nut/bolt so it shouldnt have just backed out.
drain and check the gear oil for metal shavings, I never knew the valley was filled with so much rat excrement or whatever that is. maybe a bolt is sitting in the valley now moving around?
Upon further investigation its probly not the tranny, the sound changes with rpm and when you turn the car off(while its still making noise) you can hear it rotate,maybe I bent something?
I also had to replace the main crossmember, was it the aluminum crossmember that was cracked?
Yeah the aluminum one cracked and the steel one was pinching the bushings
and whats with the ECU? I had replaced the ECU at once point because the car would start acting up (overheating ECU? does it start stalling and wanting to die with like 0 power? I had to pull over so many times.
Honestly Ive gone through 4 ecu's, upon inspection all had leaking capacitors in the same place, but the whole limp-mode ordeal has too many varibles to list(Ill make a seperate post eventually) the motor will cut fuel until the car reachs idle, then wont allow any rpm past 2500 until its turned off and on again.
cant wait to see the valve covers all done.
Not a great photo but its better than nothing;
and what part of california are you in? you look like you are in the sierras? no smog out there right? delete the cats.
and if its the top bolt yeah that one is ridiculous to put on, IIRC that should have been a nylock nut/bolt so it shouldnt have just backed out.
Im in Humboldt county
Ive got smog every two years of Im correct, but its just a sniffer test with no exhaust inspection usually.
I put that crossmember in not too long ago, late 2014?
it didnt have any cracks or anything. I hope the chassis isnt twisted and causing all this, given the body damage. man this car seems to have too many problems.
somethings not right about that ECU thing, that would make 5 or 6 ECUs in 2 years? maybe something wrong with the wiring.
The limp mode shenanigans:
The other day Im in the middle of nowhere and the car does it, so I turn it off and when I go to turn it back on nothing happens, it acts like theres no battery. Soon I realize the 150A fuse blew, Ive got no money for the $250 tow to the bottom of my driveway so I force the two prongs togeather which allows me to start the car then they loose contact and everything besides things crucial to the motor shut off. (No gauges,no headlights,no electric seats,etc) the drive home was long enough to warrent at least 2 limp mode situations. None happened.
My theory:
Theres some module in the interior thats not working properly?
Maybe if the car dosent get feedback from the gauges it cant automatically regulate rpm thus no limp mode.
On the subframe note; There is a unmaintained dirt road about 1 mile long to reach my house from the county road. This leads to LOTS of chassis flex, and contact with the ground, it was bottoming out that cracked it.
Last edited by Sony1492; Jul 24, 2016 at 07:18 PM.
Just finished getting this assembly connected to the parts car in an effort to cure my electrical issues. Got all the holes for the clutch master cylinder cut. Next will be swapping the rear subframes.
Got the rear subframe on and got the car running, theres still some trac and abs issues to track down aswell as wiring in the front airbag sensors.
Im probly gonna continue with this build thread because although its a different chassis 80% of the old car is in this one, and Im not taking this build in any different directions.
Had the rear wheels stolen w/ tires installed not two days prior, they also stole about 15 gallons of gas and broke the door to the gas cap aswell. Last but not least they stole everything in the trunk(air pump, jumper cables, tow strap, jack, jackstand, fire extiguisher, a backpack full of miscellaneous tools, and the battery). All due to it braking down 40 miles from anywhere again. Thanks to the tow being worth $800 and a few other factors I had to leave it for nearly 3 days at the nearest post office, I get back and it looks like that.
This cars third trip on a flatbed since Ive owned it.
The cars still not running again but the issue seems to be related to the ignition switch. Sadly the parts cars ignition switch was compromised aswell, so now its the waiting game. ...But g35 rims might be in my future.
It's been a while but the cars still running. Did a few things since I last posted but mostly used it for commuting, so it didn't get as much love as it should have.Blew up my open diff, welded it blew that up and gonna reweld that soon. Removed the powersteering pump using a +4Engineering alternator bracket. Relocated the harness around the wheel well. Ordered a set of 245/40R18's and spacers. I plan on getting the knuckles shortened with a little bumpsteer correction aswell in the very near future. Still havnt gotten a matching set of rims but I've got a couple ADR 18x8.5's for the front which is nice. I'll get some pics up soon.
