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Here is the thing. I bought the car from a buddy who bought it 3 years ago for a shop car as he owns a shop called endless motorsports. It sat for about 3 years with maybe 200 miles put on during that time. When I bought it it
Had allot of small bugs to work out. Most have which been figured out. It is running a hks vpc and has a map sensor on the car but I'm un sure of what map it is exactly. I would love to swap to a gte ecu, cop setup. And most likely will after I learn some more about it. I'm new to the sc side of things. But have owned probably 60+ turbo vehicles and i. Surely not and idiot. I can do ground up builds ect. I have owned the car for about 4 months now. And have accomplished so much already.
Does it matter if I buy a auto gte ecu?
I would like to start gathering parts soon for this setup. So I can take it to SP to get tuned as they are only 2 hrs from me or so.
yeah I am not surprised it sat alot of people get frustrated with that setup, I commend you for even getting it running so well, not everyone could have gotten that far on that ecu.
the n/a ecu uses that karman maf, so the vpc uses its own special map sensor and similates a karman maf output (aka maf delete), then the safc trims it for injectors, this is your current setup, with me so far right?
what the gte ecu expects is a map sensor signal not a maf, so for this combo you wont need the VPC cause there is no maf to delete, you will instead get and use an actual 2jz map sensor, and use the safc to just trim that larger injectors, so sell the VPC and get a stock 2jz map sensor and you can make that work.
yeah the 550's and safc are good, no changes needed there. so remove the VPC for a regular old 2jz map sensor, install 2jzgte ecu, and have the SAFC wired up to the 2jz map sensor and output to the right pin on the gte ecu. you will need a DS62 ignitor cause the GTE ecu needs the newer ignitor, and some spare ecu pins to do the wiring as shown in my thread, and for the non-coilpack wiring its very very quick to do the wiring.
if you do all that, your car will run like 5000x times better and that is without coilpacks even.
you can always add coils later you dont have to do it right away, it takes running 2 new wires from the ecu to the ignitor, and then making a coilpack harness that runs from ignitor to the coils (4 more new wires).
for now I would say just get to the right ecu, then worry about coilpacks down the road, its not that important unless you are trying to squeeze every bit of power out of the setup.
if you have an automatic, then get the auto ecu. only issue is it does not do the torque converter lockup on the stock trans, which is an issue for some.
If you have a manual, then you can use either ecu auto or manual, but the manual one from a supra is more ideal has a little higher rev limit and doesn't pull timing when it thinks the auto is shifting like the auto ecu.
You should be looking for a JDM 2jzgte ecu (aristo or supra)
the auto ecu's are more common though, and all Aristo ecu's are auto. only supra's had a manual ecu option.
I drove my manual on an auto aristo ecu for a while, but if you have a manual the JDM supra 6 speed ecu is where its at, usually more expensive but a nice ecu to have.
also the ecu's from a supra will work plug and play with the a/c system. if you use an aristo ecu you need to put in a simple relay to make the a/c work.
there isn't anything to tune on these ecu's, thats the whole reason to do the swap.
The ge ecu just doesn't know what to do which is why you have to tune it, the GTE ecu is already tuned for a turbo 2jz. just throw it on there, and set the SAFC to around -20% across the board to compensate for the injectors, and it should drive like it was tuned. I doubt SP will even touch your car unless its on a standalone or you are very very convincing.
Thank you so much Ali! You are the man. I have been lurking the forums the past couple weeks learning and gathering as much info as I can.
SP said they would tune my current setup for $300. But my turbo is on its last leg so that is getting ordered. And from the looks of it I will order a jdm gte ecu and install it all at once and trailer it down to SP.
Now, lile I said I purchased the car basically as it sits. With the safc2 and vpc already connected. Like I stated I have the safc pretty much dialed in although every so often I get my afr gauge jumping around at low throttle/ out of boost. I will more than likely be ordering a 67mm from drift motion. Keeping it close to what I have now, and I'm still running a w58. I am debating on what trans to go with next, and that will be taking place over winter when I pull the motor to redo the bay.
I will be starting to source out a jdm manual gte ecu soon. When it arrives and time comes to do the instal. Will it be plug and play with my current harness? My safc is wired in right at the ecu harness. So will I need to switch any wires around for the gte ecu?
the ecu plugs into the factory harness but not all the wires are in the right place, there are a few you have to move/add its covered in the thread. yes you will have to do rewiring cause the vpc and safc are usually wired together, you will have to unwire that mess, seperate the safc, and then reinstall just the safc with the new 2jz map sensor.
the safc will reuse most of its wires like power ground rpm etc.. except it uses a different wire for map sensor vs karman maf, so you need to change those 2 wires at the safc. there are digrams for the JDM 2jzgte ecu online.
so remove vpc+safc, plug in JDM GTE ecu, install 2jz map sensor and safc back on, wire up the ignitor as shown, do the little bit of wiring at the ecu as shown in the thread for the ignition, and it should be running well.
yeah you are loosing alot of power man, been there done that, the n/a ecu once it freaks out (where it starts giving you low throttle issues in closed loop), it will pull timing all across meaning also in open loop in boost.
once you drive it on the gte ecu you will understand, there is no fighting the GTE ecu, and if you do encounter a problem the GTE ecu will help you keep driving and boosting well where the n/a ecu just keeps randomly doing whatever it feels like.
also you get a super lean idle after boosting like 16-17 afr itll just sit there heating up the engine for no reason.
you can run the gte ecu with the stock ignition system, you just need JDM 2jzgte ecu, 2jz map sensor, ds62 ignitor, 440cc injectors and the wiring (you can use 550cc with a piggyback like safc or map ecu etc..). this is assuming you have a 92-95 sc300, for 96-97 you can do the same but it wont be emissions friendly.
Ok SC3 a MAP ECU 3 can work on both GE & GTE ECU's right?
Is it possible to use a distributor system on a GTE ECU? I do not know how much power a COP set up adds but if its cheaper to start with a GE ECU then do an upgrade to a GTE ECU then convert to COP that would be nice. (I'm sure its the predictability and intensity of the spark that matters at that point any way. )
I'd like to retain my automatic. I'm not aiming for more than 400-500HP because I'd like to use 400-600cc injectors for the reliability in case the GTE ECU freaks out. and actually would rather have a is300 steering wheel and suprastick with a gated shifter and upgraded transmission components than go back to driving a stick shift. Because the $3000 clutch setup and big turbo are extra fun in bumper to bumper traffic right?
Seriously you are one of the best respondents on the forum. Are the threads that have this information being tagged properly ?
the only thing a GE ecu is good for is driving a non turbocharged GE motor, or it also makes a good door stop.
I really don't have much advice for using it on the GE ecu, but yes, one could use any piggyback on the GE ecu, this would delete the maf and give you some control over fueling. will it make the GE ecu behave properly, I don't think it would do it to any degree that I would enjoy driving the car with. I am sure it will run though.
you can use a GTE ecu with the stock distributor, all you have to do is change the stock ignitor for a $30 ds62 ignitor, and connect/solder about 5 pins near the ecu. its about as hard as intsalling a safc to do the tt ecu mod.
once you feel like going to coilpacks, you can do that down the road with some additional wiring, but anyone and everyone with a turbo and either a 92-95SC or one that does not need emissions should swap to at least a JDM 2JZGTE ecu to make the car drive properly, reliably, and not have detonation that the stock ecu can cause when it gets confused. the gte ecu does not get confused if you stick to the stock paramters or know how to set the piggybacks with the larger injectors.
again under no curcumstance should anyone just use the stock GE ecu, you are wasting your time you could be spending elsewhere, grab a gte ecu (there are a many of them out there), grab a map sensor, drop in some 440cc injectors (550cc needs a safc or map ecu or insert your favorite piggyback here), change out the ignitor (swap pins to a new connector and plug in not rocket science), and presto your car will pick up power and always idle at the correct afr. and in the future you can upgrade to coils which is really the icing on the cake, once you do the whole thing the car drives buttery smooth and has much more power, and you can feel safer boosting knowing the ecu knows you are actually boosting and delivering realistic timing for that.
for the auto part, as I said the auto fonction works but the torque converter lockup doesn't unless you switch to a 2jz gte automatic and pin in the existing wiring. this is basically what they do when you send in your harness to have a swap harness made, they add these extra parts from a gte harness or you can just get the connectors and wire them up, there are only a couple on there. a gte trans would be the best if you want to stay auto and work out the wiring, then you can hold 400hp on that trans all day long reliably, unlike the stock trans no idea when it will go at that power. alot of people who have a trans in good condition are considering just slapping a real trans cooler on there, and seeing how long the stock one lasts. my thinking is it may last a lot longer than some think with the trans cooler even without the lockup working cause its mostly an issue on the highway and the cooler should help alot at those speeds. also its used briefly on cold starts but its not vital. itll at least get you by till you can find a more built or gte auto or plan for a manual swap.
manual swaps w58 are usually $1500 or less these days, the parts do add up but so does the fun. Suprastick is great if you can find one, but its not even close to replacing the feel of a manual, which is 99.6% of the reason I enjoy mine. you can get a r154 swap for more and there are even more exotic swaps as well.
I am currently on a GE ecu and a safc, and I must say it absolutely sucks! Low rpms, cruising, idling, basically anything out of boost...it runs like crap. I will be doing the TT ecu swap soon. Going to just do it all right away, ecu, coils.
So today was D day and I started MAP3 install and I have a few questions.
I want to believe the software didn't install properly because I can't access the map3 ecu dashboard. Every time I click on the icon I get a Division by zero error message. Does anybody know what's going on ?
I wired in The harnesses and I have a few more wires leftover that I am not sure how to wire in/ if I don't need them.
The 18 way harness is completely wired into the igniter wires, and I have 6 leftover. four for CH7 and 8 in/outputs which I wont be using because the Jz is a 6 cyl. the last two are the purple and black wire for analog input and output. I believe these are for the O2 sensor? Do I need to install them if I have an AEM wideband?
The 16 way harness has a lot more wires left over: I got the oem MAP signal, TPS, Both grounds Teed to one, KVF input & output as well as the 12v batter power hooked up. everything else is not connected.
The car started right up and yes it does runs like **** at the moment, I wasn't able to adjust anything because I cant get my dashboard to open up on my laptop.
16 way leftovers:
white/black MAF/Baro input
yellow O2
yellow/green switched output #
purple Switched output #2
Analog #1
Any clue on if I need these or not will be appreciated.
Also at idle, one of the red led light are slashing partially the one on the right.
Disconnected the O2 and did some idle tuning and it worked smoothly. How ever I'm having issues in the following areas.
Rpm tuning: when I hit the gas to tune my rpm points the car won't really rev, it sounds like the rev limiter is being hit/ bouncing off the rev limiter and this is at 2500 ish rpm.
When I **** to drive, it starts to run lean and dies. After doing more adjustments I was able to get it to idle but hitting the brakes makes the car run lean or when my electric fans kicks on.
I got multiple or ecu code, 21 which is for the O2 sensor being disconnected for tuning, and 42 for speed signal and my overdrive light is flashing.
During my drive earlier trying to tune my cruising afr, I got on it a bit and I hit boost cut like it did with out the map installed.
I just started noticing that the tps status on the dashboard is moving up and down at idle.
The ecu, boost and WB Gages are connected to the same ground but the ecu is saying my afr is 14.6 ( the afr is defaulted. It doesn't change or search/ does not appear live like the gage itself) i don't know if that's how it's supposed to be or not thought I ask on here. Please watch the video and see if I'm missing something:/
06-04-15, 01:29 PM
