pseaser

My first post got deleted and It didn't auto save my post

I apologize that I couldn't get the pictures up, but if you want the pictures in the run threw, visit my blog at lowbudgetracing1320.wordpress.com/2015/02/07/fix-it-yourself-ignition-switch

This was done on my auto 92 Sc300.

Please use caution! This content is to showcase the things needed to complete an ignition switch replacement and I am not responsible for any malfunction or harm that may come to you or the vehicle.

The symptom I had was simply the starter not getting power from the ignition switch. I put in a 12v push button for a while but it died. I ran another one & shortly that one followed suit. After scratching my head, frustrated, I caved in from my frugality and got another ignition switch. Still not amused with the job at hand, I waited. In the mean time I was stuck having to hot wiring the car. I couldn't take it anymore, so I finally put the one I had at my disposal, in the car. Steps aren't to bad, so I’ll break it down as much as I can.

Tools needed:
Flat head
Either a 6” or (x2) 3” ⅜ extensions
Flash light
Mini philips screw driver
⅜ ratchet
Wire cutters
Magnet
Long phillips screw driver
A bit of patience

I started by moving the driver & passenger seats all the way back & putting the steering wheel as high as it would go.
Then I pulled off the battery cables. This is the most important part: airbags can deploy & electrical shorts can happen.
Next, I took out all the materials I had in my armrest & front carpets area: well some of it.
Take off the shift handle, or shift **** (auto or 5 speed) this one was an auto so there's two bolts that hold the shift boot cover in place.
Then just pull it up & put it to the side.
Next, disconnect the power & overdrive buttons.
Remove your shift boot cover.
Remove your cup holder.
Open up the armrest & there will be (x2) 10 mm bolts under the little carpet.
Also there's a screw in the top portion that’s plastic.
Under the shift boot cover, you have 4 screws to remove.
In a nutshell, remove all the screws for the center console.
Get behind the air condition, hazard light, & volume buttons to disconnect the plugs.
Once those are removed, simply pull on the entire upper center console gently & pop her out. Watch out for the push clips, they can be tight.
Next, remove the plug behind the cigarette lighter & ashtray.
There's (x4) 10 mm bolts holding in the CD player & radio tray. Remove those.
Now, pull out slightly (giggity)
Get behind the cd player & temp controller to take out all the plugs & the antennas cables. Next, take out all the screws holding in the bottom center console. I believe there's 6.
On the left side under the front portion of the console & underneath the ignition, there's a screw: take it out.
There's a panel underneath the glove compartment with (x2) screws & two clips, remove these.
Next, there's a parallel screw from underneath the ignition side by the front of the console but underneath the glove box.
Now the lower console is ready to come out.
Put your car in neutral & pull the console up & towards the rear seats.
Take one portion out at a time, from front to rear & slide it out.
Now open the glove compartment & pull out the two screws on the top.
Once removing those, there is going to be two lights with plugs-in to the left by the console.
There's two screws on the bottom that need to be removed as well.
Remove those then pull out the glove compartment.
The pillar that goes across the center console & holds the key ignition has clips that just need to be tugged on & the whole piece comes out.
Be careful not to try to do the other side first. I made that mistake & ruined mine.
After you have this portion off, go to the left side & take off the half c pillar.
It’s just pulled from the bottom & top and it snaps right out.
I went ahead & pulled off my steering wheels airbag because I needed to check the connector.
Under that, there’s two panels that house the gas opener button, the trunk release, the hood release, & the security switch. Remove this portion by taken off the (x2) screws & (x2) clips.
Behind it will be a bracket that is held in by (x4) 10mm bolts, remove all those & it falls right out.
Next, there's an a/c duct held in by a screw close to the left. Pull away gently.

*************Now comes the fun part****************

In total there are going to be (x5) screws in tight places that need to be removed.
If you look at the new ignition switch you’ll see (x2) go on the front sensor, (x2) go on the slightly bigger one, & one, right behind the ignition switch connector area.
This is where that mini phillips head comes into play.
First, remove the screw that’s right at the end of the switch. (You’ll need to really get under the steering wheel as much as possible).
Cut the zip tie that’s hold the wiring for the ignition switch.
Make your way back up towards the front of the steering wheel & take out the other (x4) screws accordingly.
Doing it this way makes you appreciate the last screw a bit more by doing the hardest one first. :}
Go to the back of the switch, slightly twist & pull the switch & all it’s contents out.
There's a plug that is connected towards the other end, unclip it.
Watch how you took it out & make sure the switch is turned to the, “off” position before installing it. It should only go in one way but just in case, click it back to off first.

Follow these steps in reverse & put everything back. I did this job in 2.5 hours while talking to a neighbor & kicking around a bit.

You have a few choices to make as far as parts. Discount auto parts offers there BWD/Intermotor Ignition Switch, Part No. CS1071, that cost $151.99. Rockauto has there AIRTEX / WELLS, Part # 1S6405, and it cost $97.79. Both prices are displayed from the higher side of there prices. Lexus dealer wanted $150.99 for the part & $472.28 for labor. On the local end, Pep Boys wanted $399.05 for labor & $116.99 for the part: which would take a week to get here. The average part price was $129.44 with a standard deviation of about $26.77. As far as labor goes, both places quoted an average of at least 1 hour 45 minutes. It took me 2 ½ hours & that’s with me having to take off my steering wheel and take out some of the same parts I put in because I forgot something.

Luckily, I had a spare to pull this one out of. Which I ordered from myself threw a site I’m still developing called LBR1320.com, http://www.lbr1320.com/need-a-part-e...r-request.html

As far as difficulty level, I would rate it at a 4. It’s not that bad just time consuming. I hope this helps, I would do it again if I had to versus putting in the 12-v button I had prior.

Sorry again that I couldn't get the pictures up, but if you want the pictures in the run threw, visit my blog at lowbudgetracing1320.wordpress.com/2015/02/07/fix-it-yourself-ignition-switch

oldManTan

the weird problem i'm having is that even jumping the wires behind the ignition block doesn't start my car. so idk what's wrong with mine, i doubt it's the ignition cylinder but somethihng else entirely so i'm still using a start button. good write up though. i've taken that part of the interior apart quite a few times, it's not fun having to lay on the ground to get to all the screws.

pseaser

Hey oldManTan, I haven't had that problem, knock on wood but I do have a question. When you tried to direct jump the wires from the back of the switch, was the stock plug in to the starter reconnected? That may have been an issue, just in case, It still needs to read the signal somehow and you might have cut out the circuit. Thanks for reading, I wish my pics would have loaded, it is a pain at times to take out.

oldManTan

yes plug was connected, i simply opened up the wires a little and touched them together, lights flickered but no start. one of the systems either Neutral safety start or the security system are keeping it from starting. so i gotta figure out which one.

pseaser

Cars can be like the doctors office, it's sad to say but sometimes it comes down to trial and error. I wish you the best of luck, I would try disconnecting all accessorizes associated with the switch and trying it again. I hope this helps.

oldManTan

i'm fine with my push button for now, i did it pretty cleanly, no soldering or anything exposed and it's been fine for over a month now. hopefully i'll get a nice RFID system soon so the whole ignition block can just be ignored and covered up with a button in it's place.

megamax

iTrader: (9)

why isn't there a video of this yet?