I got a 93 SC300 the other day and it has run fine the hundred or so miles I've put on it. Even at the emissions place, one of the things they checked for showed 0 ppm and idled fine. Yesterday, it started up fine and I drove 1/2 a mile to the grocery store for a few items, and started up and ran just fine on the 1/2 mile drive home. In the driveway it had a weird feel to the idle and when I revved it. Almost like what it felt like when I did a compression test on my Z32 the other day and didn't get one of the coil pack connectors on quite snug enough.

So today I pulled it down to a flat spot in the driveway to check if there are any engine codes (before I just buy new plugs and wires for the hell of it) and I plug a paperclip into the correct connectors on the diagnostic port inside the car and with the key to On (both with the car running and the car off) and the trans in neutral like the online guide says, I get nothing flashing. However when I plug it into the one in the engine bay, the O/D Off flashes constantly, along with constant quick flashing of the CEL light. No series of slow blinks followed by quick blinks or anything, so I guess that means there are no engine codes stored. However, the diagnostic port in the engine bay looks like this:



There is goop all in the ports, plus the terminals for +B and EP are jumpered already with a wire. Is there supposed to be goop all in the ports, and why would those 2 ports be jumpered already?

 

Ok nevermind, no need to check for engine codes when it turns out a plug wire had just popped off of the distributor cap lol

The one underneath the coil wire was just hanging out, down near the exhaust manifold heat shield. Once I figured out how the clips worked on this car, I just popped it back in place and made sure it was snug this time. Don't quite like the way they work on this car, and I definitely want to upgrade....5mm is awful wimpy