sc4hunnit

Just use the factory harness from the factory amp for the speakers. Just make sure you rewire the front speakers because for some reason, the input goes to the tweeter first then crosses over to the mid drivers, not driver then tweeter, at least on my Nakamichi system it was like that. Good luck. I just did mine. 6.5" components in the front, 6.5" component in the rear, and two 12's.

PoorMike

Just for future reference I would avoid buy wiring kits, you are usually overpaying for them. Find a local stereo store buy aux cables and the required amount of wire you need and you can usually save some cash!

Anyways, I did just buy this HU I have it installed, w/ backup camera, took about 45 mins max (w/o me going back out to buy a fuse I blew) This headunit is by far the best one i have ever owned.

The wiring harness it comes with is like any aftermarket harness so just match up the colors heat shrink the wires and boom awesome HU achived.

kk93sc3

@Biddles - I might just have to wait for the PDX-5 to go back on sale. Yesterday afternoon it was going for $250 on Amazon, but of course I checked after work and it was at $430 or w/e.

I'm either waiting, or considering the Rockford Fosgate R600X5 or even the Kicker ZX700.5.

I'm also going to get a sound dampening kit of some sort.

@sc4hunnit - So I should rewire the front speakers completely? Send the wiring through the door jams and what not? How'd that go? Or do you mean splice into the wires by the speakers and just switch them around?

@PoorMike - That's good to know. Glad someone on here has that HU. Did you bypass the parking brake or w/e so you can watch while in drive?

Oh and does a wiring kit also come with the necessary things to hook up a sub? Kind of a dumb question.

kk93sc3

@PoorMike: Did you use the Metra dash kit for the HU? If so, how's it working? I read they're flimsy but there's a mod you can do.

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

Please elaborate on the mod if anyone knows, my creeks on every bump, I hate flimsy metra broken tabs piece of crap product for a lexus!
OP: the great thing about connecting wires in the trunk is, you don't have to mess with ripping your door panels apart and buy more and run those wires, those wires are already there going from the amp out so you just need to figure out the colors of 8( 2 front and 2 rear + and -) wires of 2 plugs and even wire your amps remote using existing sc wires. That's the easiers way I thought?
Your subwoofer will get a signal from the amp only using single rca cable, and all of your 4 smaller speakers would be connected to the HU. the best part would be knowledge of your own work and how it all works and it's free install!!

Biddles

iTrader: (2)

I can confirm the Metra dash kit sucks, I have them in both my SC's and the center console has about 3/4" of play which is very annoying when you hit bumps. I'm going to look into strengthening it without doing the old bracket mod as I no longer have the original brackets to do so anyway. I figure I can stuff some Dynamat in there, or something to reduce wiggle. It sucks because the plastic is so flimsy and the double din has a good amount of weight to it.

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

The only way to make the radio sturdy is to use the factory brackets with the Metra kit. It isn't very hard at all. The brackets can be bought from lexus by themselves. I'd also recommend adding a insert at the bottom of the radio to cover the gap when you open the ashtray so you don't see any of the wiring. That irritated me. See pic two.

Shane

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Shane! Great pic worth 1000 words!

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

If so many on people are concerned on running new wires to new speakers, just tap into the rear of the harness that plugs into the factory harness that goes in the changer. Run new wires from there. Much easier.

I have redone my whole stereo in mine. If anyone has a specific question, post up.

Biddles

iTrader: (2)

Got a link where we can buy the brackets? I need them.

kk93sc3

I'm gonna tap into the factory harness that goes into the changer. Is it necessary to even run new wires from there, or do you just do it to make them longer so you can connect them to the amp?
Also, where did you mount your amp, and how? I was thinking I would put mine on the back wall of the trunk behind the rear seats. Not sure how to mount it though or where the best place would be.
Did you do any sound dampening? If so, what brand, how many sq. ft, and where in the car?
Did you have to rewire the front speakers like sc4hunnit (see the comment below)? If so, how did you change that? Kinda confused on to do it if that's the case.

Sorry for all the questions. I appreciate you taking out the time to comment.


This is the mod I was talking about. What did you use to close that gap, and how did you make it stay in place?

Thanks for commenting!

kk93sc3

I'm considering the Kicker CompVR 07CVR104 for my sub (which will go in the factory location). Seems like a really good value.

For those of you with an aftermarket sub in the factory location, which make/model did you get? How much modification was necessary?

Thanks in advance.

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

www.sewellparts.com for the brackets. They are $18.50 each.

The spacer I made is just press fit. It's a 5/8" by 3/4" piece of MDF wrapped with black felt.


Shane

SC4ME

this thread is alot more helpful than mine lol, i have my broken metra and my original brackets so im about to do this