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Staining or Window Tinting Wood Trim?

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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 05:13 PM
  #16  
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Did you destroy the wood grain????
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 07:05 PM
  #17  
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Mines are plastic and paint was pealing off them. Just for info!



Originally Posted by rcchris7
I couldn't get any stains to take to the wood. It's super thin. I tried doing the same thing and ended up wrapping them in vinyl in the end
What do you mean by "it's super thin".. the quantity of clear apply originally to the wood panel or the wood panel themself?
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 12:02 AM
  #18  
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From personal experience, the staining method will not work. I sanded down a couple pieces before and when you get to the "wood", you find it is almost a piece of paper with wood print on it that is stuck to some metal, with cheap wood on the back which you can see if you look on the backside. It does not stain well, if at all, and just did not work for me.

An alternative is to use vinyl however the only vinyl I found had a cheap look to it and was essentially black vinyl with wood grain texture on it. It would look pretty cool if it had a thick coat of resin on it that was properly polished. However, it does not obtain the look of true blackwood. I had a sports design 2GS steering wheel and shift **** at one point and gave up trying to match it. A good alternative would be to paint it piano black as you posted in those pics. An example of a member who did the vinyl is cleansc4 if you check his history. I believe a few others did it as well.

If you want to do it the right way, you would need to do it like ScottURnot who have hydroprinting done (check his massive thread for interior pics). I scrapped the idea a while back because I received an estimate of near $500 but this was at least 4 years ago so prices may have come down considerably.

Oh also, I tried spray tinting the wood with VHT by roughing up the clear and spraying it. It kind of worked but did not impress me so I didn't bother going with it.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 05:19 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Hil
From personal experience, the staining method will not work. I sanded down a couple pieces before and when you get to the "wood", you find it is almost a piece of paper with wood print on it that is stuck to some metal, with cheap wood on the back which you can see if you look on the backside. It does not stain well, if at all, and just did not work for me.

An alternative is to use vinyl however the only vinyl I found had a cheap look to it and was essentially black vinyl with wood grain texture on it. It would look pretty cool if it had a thick coat of resin on it that was properly polished. However, it does not obtain the look of true blackwood. I had a sports design 2GS steering wheel and shift **** at one point and gave up trying to match it. A good alternative would be to paint it piano black as you posted in those pics. An example of a member who did the vinyl is cleansc4 if you check his history. I believe a few others did it as well.

If you want to do it the right way, you would need to do it like ScottURnot who have hydroprinting done (check his massive thread for interior pics). I scrapped the idea a while back because I received an estimate of near $500 but this was at least 4 years ago so prices may have come down considerably.

Oh also, I tried spray tinting the wood with VHT by roughing up the clear and spraying it. It kind of worked but did not impress me so I didn't bother going with it.
Thanks for the info. I stumbled upon ScottUrNot's thread with the hydroprinting last night and it looked really good. For now I'll get my interior pieces painted then wait on hydroprinting the wood.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 05:53 AM
  #20  
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I believe you will be very happy once they are reinstalled and painted to your liking.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 06:15 AM
  #21  
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The wood is very thin for a reason. It has to bend to fit the compound curves. It is finished with a varnish. You can only stain the wood after all of the varnish is removed. Consequently, your chances of trying to sand the varnish off without sanding thru the wood is slim to none. Using a liquid varnish remover might work. Even so, you would need to be able to then sand it to a fine surface. The wood should then be bleached to remove the old finish. Only then can the wood be re-stained successfully. Any lack of success in this process will result in the wood being destroyed. The only option left to use the wood would then be to paint or cover it.
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