I don't set anything on the SC anyway... Never needed to. So that aspect won't be a personal hazard.

 

You never listen to the radio/stations? The computer chip also has to be retrained on your driving habits.

 

$300 shipped and worth every penny.

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/batt...1500series.htm

 

there's other threads on this subject. Lots of people say to use a voltmeter and check for a draw along the verious circuits at the fuse box. It's not going to be the alternator and highly unlikely the ECU. I've had the same issue for years and I'm on a stand alone. that's switch looks like a good idea I think I'm going to do that and just be done with it. Looks like it might also make a good kill switch if I hide it

 

Yeah I had researched it a while back and didnt opt to start testing, just got the switch and it works. I wouldn't splurge on a nice drycell battery if you have this issue, I drained one a few times before I got that switch and it doesn't charge fully anymore.

maybe we all have the same drain? that would be nice if someone figured out where its coming from.

 

I did not see any other threads on this...I thought such a small issue would be the ECU anyway...Thanks for the tip...(hiding the switch that is...)

...Which makes me interested...Does that trunk light that is on the CD player ever shut off when you close the trunk? Or would such a small bulb be able to drain a big battery like that? Might look into the draining issue...

 

I also have a draining issue... likely most of our problems are from the same source

 

Dunno if soarers have the same stock alarm/wiring but if so, this is a DIY fix for it.

Hope this helps.

 

Its not the trunk light and I dont even have the stock cd changer in the car anymore.
I tested that one by putting my cell phone in the trunk and setting it on video recording.
I could see that the trunk light would go out as soon as the trunk is closed.

Ill have to look into this when I get some more time. thanks.

 

Then I wonder what the heck the drainage might be...Studiogeek, that is something to look into! Thanks man. Oh, and thanks Ali for confirming the trunk light lol, is there something that you haven't done to your SC?

 

Lol, I have done alot of stuff to it but I will never install a rear spoiler. I like the wingless look

I just read that other thread, no aftermarket alarm here, so that seems like another dead end. may have to go out and measure amps one of these days to finally figure this out, but I still love having that switch it makes it so easy to do any electrical work to the car. There is the security light constantly blinking, and my stereo has another light that blinks also, but I feel like all cars have those.

 

^^How would you be able to find the drainage?

BTW, I love the spoiler on my SC. In fact, the SC IMAO look's kinda plump without it...

 

Under the steering column there is a switch that turns the key remote off. This will go a long way to preserve the battery, as otherwise the radio is constantly searching for remote signal.

 

^^Good idea, most of us don't even have the remote anyway. I'll check to see if that switch is on.

 

yeah I know what you mean, but the plumpness kind of grows on you after a while .
The 2 huge cans on the bottom help even things out a bit. I had a wingless 240 hatch before this SC, both are less common than the wing version but somehow I keep finding them.

finding the drain is a long process you test the current draw on each fuse, then when you find it you have to test everything on that circuit until you track it down. probably be ages before I get to finishing that. I sort of half guessed it will end up being some factory item I don;t want to remove, then I will be back to square 1 flipping the switch.

Although if its a less important module, one could put it on switched power instead of having a direct battery connection depending on what module it is, and that could solve the problem.

alot of the mercedes have this problem because the seat control circuit has power when the key is removed, so it can move the seat forward or back its the coutesy entrance thing. well the module goes bad and drins the battery every few days and costs over $1K per side to fix, but the DIY fix is that each module has a constant battery connection and a switched one, you just cut off the constant wire and jump it to the switched wire. you loose the ability to move the seat with the key not in the ignition, but no battery drain and the seats and memory work just fine.

I think alot of our seats work like that, as in you can move them without the key in the ignition, so maybe it has something to do with that.