Turbo Application + DD Reliability
if you have the time and money I'd run through the seals on the motor (front/rear main, cam seals), completely rebuild the head(decked head, new valve stem seals, cam seals, valves and cams cleaned up but left stock), run a tt hg, arp headstuds, new valve cover seals and youre good to go. the main problem with these motors is seals going bad over time. with all new seals and a refreshed head, tt hg, headstuds your ge will be good for 500+ all day.
^^^^^has nothing of this sort and any solid competent tuner who TRULY cares for there customers pocket and car would never leave a customer with 2 tunes on a single map . one of the best features of using a standalone like a simple aem is the ability to tune in boostcut .. your tuner tunes you to say 18 psi on pump gas , your vac line to wastegate comes off and turbo tried to boost to its limit , aem senses via map sensor with a sec or so and cuts ign and fuel at 20 psi long before any damage can occur .. thats a good amount of protection that has saved my engine a few times .. the only other protection I PERSONALLY crave is fuel pressure drop during wot to cut boost and envoke a soft rev cut
http://www.fsrmotorsports.com/tuning...-demo-and-dyno
i do not work for this company or have any affiliation i'm just sharing what I have found.
how is my advice any worse than yours. all you said is if you refresh the top end, change the headgasket. maybe you could elaborate as to why my advice is so terrible in order to help the OP and the community grow, rather than just putting down what others say.
I do correct myself though, if the OP has the time and money he might as well just completly rebuild the motor and have all brand new parts. or go the route you suggested and get a lower mileage motor, but i still suggest going through all the seals and gaskets just in case. I'm a strong advocate of doing things right the first time to avoid problems down the road.
sorry i made two posts i don't know how to merge them together into one response.
I do correct myself though, if the OP has the time and money he might as well just completly rebuild the motor and have all brand new parts. or go the route you suggested and get a lower mileage motor, but i still suggest going through all the seals and gaskets just in case. I'm a strong advocate of doing things right the first time to avoid problems down the road.
sorry i made two posts i don't know how to merge them together into one response.
^^^^^ read my post again.
You don't rebuild the top end on 267k miles engine and leave the bottom end intact, the bottom end will need a rebuilt too or you will be burning all day every day.
You either do both or get a lower miles engine and swap the headgasket.
That's how it works.
You don't rebuild the top end on 267k miles engine and leave the bottom end intact, the bottom end will need a rebuilt too or you will be burning all day every day.
You either do both or get a lower miles engine and swap the headgasket.
That's how it works.
That's what I'll likely do.... Find a low mileage GE and rebuild it with all new seals and stuff. I'm assuming ideally the piston rings as well as bearings?
I just need to get my other car done so I'll have a 2nd car to use meanwhile. Motor swap... the cold can cause procratination, hate working in the cold.
I just need to get my other car done so I'll have a 2nd car to use meanwhile. Motor swap... the cold can cause procratination, hate working in the cold.
i guess your choice of wording confused me a bit. so youre saying that if you rebuild the head, you must also rebuild the bottom end or else you will burn oil? i'm looking for an explanation rather than "do this because thats how it works."
I think he means that there is no point in rebuilding your head if the bottom end is still old and worn from 267k miles. And I would agree that "this is how it works": you can risk just rebuilding one half of the motor , but will probably still encounter problems with the other half.
I think he means that there is no point in rebuilding your head if the bottom end is still old and worn from 267k miles. And I would agree that "this is how it works": you can risk just rebuilding one half of the motor , but will probably still encounter problems with the other half.
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