^ so, what is allowed then? Whats normal drain for the 300's/400's/Soarers?

Also, are the only two fuse locations the engine bay and driver footwell?

 

That I don't know, but I'm sure if someone had the TEWD it'd be in there.

Yes, there's only two fuse locations.

But you should be able to see the drain alleviate after the fuse that's running power drops.

 

people with swaps dont have this problem?

 

What's your battery drain in amperage? Get a DMM, put in AMPS mode connect the meter in SERIES with the battery ground cable and battery's negative post. And report what's the amperage draw. Should be less than 60 mA or .06 A.

 

Yup, I was wrong, this man is right!

 

I don't.
Its bizarre.
Even though I have a 1JZ now, the fuse boxes and all the interior wiring is the same as before but for whatever reason it works fine. I had not driven the car for almost 2 months after my rear coolant hose took a dump, but the car started up like nothing happened.

Before I did the swap, I had not driven the car for about 4 or 5 days awaiting headlights and the battery died. Also did it again when I went away for a weekend out of state during the spring (different battery).

 

i believe that the distributor leaks oil onto the alternator but what problems would that make?

 

the drain can be caused by the factory immobiliser.
always lock the car. even though you have it in the shed with the windows down.
the immobiliser is still active talking to other computers all the time and draining the battery.

also go out and buy a cheap earthing kit and attach them to most of the factory earthing points.
even though its cheap. the wires still have less resistance than factory wiring

 

If oil is leaking onto your alternator it can cause it to stop working. There are lots of post about it on here.

It might not be the cause of your battery problem but it could still cause you problems down the road. I'd try and keep the oil off the alternator. If the leak isn't too bad just keep it wiped off. It usually collects on the metal around the distributor before it drips onto the alternator. If its real bad though I would change out the o ring on the distributor.

If your alternator is charging good check for a drain like other posts suggest. Finding a drain can be a pain though lol.

 

^ I know dripping oil is a common problem, and reason why alternators keep dying. But I'm not so sure that's the main reason for dead batteries after a few days of not driving.
I'm on my second alternator and there's nothing that can leak anywhere near the alternator on vvt-i 1UZ models (no distributor, and not the PS either).
I have a feeling it's something to do with the immobilizer as well..

 

I like the imobilizer theory. I have had the car for 5 years and never had this problem before. My new house has a garage and I dont need to lock doors, at my last house I had a carport and kept doors locked and even if sat for a week it always started.

 

charged battery, ran it for awhile thurs, locked the doors and now its starting right up after sitting a couple of days! I thought alternator maybe goin out but it seems like it maybe just not having doors locked. I love this forum.

 

I had the oil messing up my alternator issue twice , three months apart. Each time it also messed the cells up in my batteries each time and I had to have them replaced.

 

I would also check and see if there are and issues with your pwr windows and/or audio system..the harness in the driver side door hinge was shorting on mine, causing it to die in 6-8 hrs...I still need to fix that!

 

If you have a multimeter (which could be used to do the parasitic draw test that GS4 mentions above) you could also check the performance of your alternator.

Set it to 12V, test the battery with the car off. 10.5 volts or less usually indicates a shorted cell. A fully charged 12v car battery should test 12.4 - 12.7 volts. Then start the engine and test again with the car running. It should read 13.5-14.5 volts. That indicates that your alternator is putting an appropriate charge onto the battery.

After you rule out the obvious, I would first test the battery and alternator then start on the parasitic draw test.