Noise in the engine bay
Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: WY
Originally posted by lex400sc
Just curious guys, but anyone here remember what the mileages were on your cars when you first started noticing the bearing noises? I don't have this problem yet, but I want to be ready for it if/when it occurs. Thanks
Just curious guys, but anyone here remember what the mileages were on your cars when you first started noticing the bearing noises? I don't have this problem yet, but I want to be ready for it if/when it occurs. Thanks
around 60k for me.
Taka: I didn't change the other bearing. but i DID change the drivebelt and the noise is still there. to see where the noice is comming from i shot some WD-40 into the other bearing and the noise went away and came back so i know which one it is. So I will change that one out soon. My car is in the shop getting a supra TT brake upgrade so its going to be 2 or 3 weeks until i get it done. I'll let you know.
Taka: I didn't change the other bearing. but i DID change the drivebelt and the noise is still there. to see where the noice is comming from i shot some WD-40 into the other bearing and the noise went away and came back so i know which one it is. So I will change that one out soon. My car is in the shop getting a supra TT brake upgrade so its going to be 2 or 3 weeks until i get it done. I'll let you know.
Racer
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 1
From: Republic of Texas
Talk about good timing for me! My sc just made the noise this morning- was wondering what it was- glad to find this post. Thanks to all who have contributed. BTW, I'm looking at 78,000 on my Lex. Right now, it only whines for the first 5 min after I crank it, but these things do not get better with time. Sounds like an easy project. Also, the bearing part numbers- are they NAPA exclusive numbers, or is it a universal part number that any shop will be able to find? Thanx!!
Lead Lap
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 771
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
A left hand thread is one that does NOT operate with the "righty, tighty; lefty, loosey" rule of thumb.
Right hand threads tighten (screw in) when rotated clock-wise.
Left hand threads loosen (screw out) when rotated clock-wise.
Left hand threads are often used on rotating parts where the natural rotation of the part will tend to loosen a right hand thread. Chrysler used them for lug nuts on the passenger side of some of their cars back in the 60s (I think). This little trick produced a surge in sales of lug nuts and studs to replace the many ones twisted off by non-Chrysler garage mechanics.
Right hand threads tighten (screw in) when rotated clock-wise.
Left hand threads loosen (screw out) when rotated clock-wise.
Left hand threads are often used on rotating parts where the natural rotation of the part will tend to loosen a right hand thread. Chrysler used them for lug nuts on the passenger side of some of their cars back in the 60s (I think). This little trick produced a surge in sales of lug nuts and studs to replace the many ones twisted off by non-Chrysler garage mechanics.
Pit Crew
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: Texas
thanks for the info guys....
current part number for the tensioner bearing is 6203-2RSJ at NAPA
the only listing they have on a 6301 for the idler shows an open bearing,, is there another part #?, or is this correct? (haven't taken it off yet to check)
current part number for the tensioner bearing is 6203-2RSJ at NAPA
the only listing they have on a 6301 for the idler shows an open bearing,, is there another part #?, or is this correct? (haven't taken it off yet to check)
Since someone else brought up an old thread.
Can someone describe this noise?
I have a noise from the engine bay, it sounds like it's from the belt. Whenever I rev my engine I hear a ticking and whirring noise. The ticking has a little bit of flapping to it.
It basically sounds like my motor is ricey. But of course it's not!
My old Celica did the same, but I expected that from a 1992 230K car. It always sounded like the throaty noise of my car was all exhaust and no engine, even though I was running on stock exhaust.
EDIT: My ex-girlfriend always called my Celica, a toy rocket ship. From the interior when I"m driving agressively all I heard was a whining high pitch noise. My poor little 4 cylinder.
Can someone describe this noise?
I have a noise from the engine bay, it sounds like it's from the belt. Whenever I rev my engine I hear a ticking and whirring noise. The ticking has a little bit of flapping to it.
It basically sounds like my motor is ricey. But of course it's not!
My old Celica did the same, but I expected that from a 1992 230K car. It always sounded like the throaty noise of my car was all exhaust and no engine, even though I was running on stock exhaust.
EDIT: My ex-girlfriend always called my Celica, a toy rocket ship. From the interior when I"m driving agressively all I heard was a whining high pitch noise. My poor little 4 cylinder.
Last edited by DarchMage; Jan 11, 2005 at 10:32 AM.
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Originally Posted by DarchMage
Since someone else brought up an old thread.
Can someone describe this noise?
I have a noise from the engine bay, it sounds like it's from the belt. Whenever I rev my engine I hear a ticking and whirring noise. The ticking has a little bit of flapping to it.
It basically sounds like my motor is ricey. But of course it's not!
My old Celica did the same, but I expected that from a 1992 230K car. It always sounded like the throaty noise of my car was all exhaust and no engine, even though I was running on stock exhaust.
Can someone describe this noise?
I have a noise from the engine bay, it sounds like it's from the belt. Whenever I rev my engine I hear a ticking and whirring noise. The ticking has a little bit of flapping to it.
It basically sounds like my motor is ricey. But of course it's not!
My old Celica did the same, but I expected that from a 1992 230K car. It always sounded like the throaty noise of my car was all exhaust and no engine, even though I was running on stock exhaust.
I have time tomorrow to get this resolved if this is the issue.
the noise was described on the first pages of this thread.
ticking and flapping noise to a whirring noise doesn't sound like the noise I heard.
I eventually had to replace the the whole idler pulley and the noise went away. I bought an OEM replacement made by a company called Dayco. This came with the pulley and bearing and the whole thing. I think it cost me under $60 for the unit and installation took about 20 minutes by my mechanic.
ticking and flapping noise to a whirring noise doesn't sound like the noise I heard.
I eventually had to replace the the whole idler pulley and the noise went away. I bought an OEM replacement made by a company called Dayco. This came with the pulley and bearing and the whole thing. I think it cost me under $60 for the unit and installation took about 20 minutes by my mechanic.
Do you think replacing just the two bearings would do it? You said that you replaced the first bearing and the noise wasn't as loud but then you replaced the entire pulley.
Has anyone replaced just the two bearings?
Has anyone replaced just the two bearings?
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,968
Likes: 19
From: Orange County, California
I've had a high-pitched chirping/squeaking sound coming from my engine for a long time, but only when stopped in Drive. If I put the trans in Neutral, the noise stops.
The info on this thread motivated me to pull off the tensioner pulley, and even though the bearing looked and felt new (after 93K miles!), I gave it a squirt of white lithium grease, put some light oil on the threads of the center bolt and reassembled.
That didn't help, so I tried installing a new bearing, and that didn't help.
So if you have the same problem I have (noisy in Drive, quiet in Neutral), changing the tensioner pulley bearing may not resolve it. It's the easiest and cheapest part to try changing, though, so give it a shot. But my problem must be in the tensioner itself, or the bearing shown in the upper right corner in Dennis' pic (below). That bearing is the next thing I will try replacing.
Thanks to Dennis and others for sharing.
The info on this thread motivated me to pull off the tensioner pulley, and even though the bearing looked and felt new (after 93K miles!), I gave it a squirt of white lithium grease, put some light oil on the threads of the center bolt and reassembled.
That didn't help, so I tried installing a new bearing, and that didn't help.
So if you have the same problem I have (noisy in Drive, quiet in Neutral), changing the tensioner pulley bearing may not resolve it. It's the easiest and cheapest part to try changing, though, so give it a shot. But my problem must be in the tensioner itself, or the bearing shown in the upper right corner in Dennis' pic (below). That bearing is the next thing I will try replacing.
Thanks to Dennis and others for sharing.
Last edited by PERRYinLA; Dec 7, 2006 at 12:57 AM.
bump to bring this to light for our newer members.
save yourself a couple hundred bucks and do the fix yourself. i just experienced the same problem and plan on getting it fixed this weekend.
save yourself a couple hundred bucks and do the fix yourself. i just experienced the same problem and plan on getting it fixed this weekend.
update - it was a little difficult to hammer out the bearing because i was afraid of breaking something but after talking to Kaiser, he helped me come to the conclusion that "if i've been hammering on it and the bearing isn't coming out - it's already broken so might as well hammer harder."
yep- it worked. got it out, got the new one in, got the belt on, and all in all - saved myself several hundred bucks.
the bearing you'll want to get is the 6203 2RS - the 2 meaning that it is sealed on both sides. this is very important. picked it up at napa for $20 bucks or something.
yep- it worked. got it out, got the new one in, got the belt on, and all in all - saved myself several hundred bucks.
the bearing you'll want to get is the 6203 2RS - the 2 meaning that it is sealed on both sides. this is very important. picked it up at napa for $20 bucks or something.