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Shaking at 60mph

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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 01:16 AM
  #31  
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Just throwing my .02 in ....
Got some nice wheels, were bent, repaired, still shakes. MC3 Wheels re-barreled the two fronts that were previously repaired. It was much better but still had some vibrations from 60-70 MPH. I was using these alum spacers. They are 10mm. I added a 60.1-72.5mm alum hub-centric ring and used like 60mm studs.

DO NOT GO THIS ROUTE
I pulled the studs and they were all a little bent. IDK why. I think they were Ichiban. So I decided to replace the OEM studs and order a set of 15mm Custom made 60.1-72.5mm spacer that had their own studs.


I got them from http://www.motorsport-tech.com for like $70 each.

They fit perfect and best of all no more vibrations. Just for info.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 10:51 AM
  #32  
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Thanks for the tip. But I've ran aftermarket and stock wheels with, and with out a set of spacers and still get vibration with any combination.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Tabaka
Thanks for the tip. But I've ran aftermarket and stock wheels with, and with out a set of spacers and still get vibration with any combination.
yea me too. thanks though
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 01:14 PM
  #34  
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Likewise, same issue no matter what wheels and I'm not running spacers. It's more pronounced with the is350 wheel because it's a lower profile tire, but it's still there with the stock SC400 wheels
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 01:19 PM
  #35  
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fml! i wonder if i set my car on fire and drive 60 it will still shake...
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 06:17 PM
  #36  
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Well it's coming in and out at 70 mph. Im gonna check my lower control arms and install my other wheels.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 10:41 PM
  #37  
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The is a small bushing into the steering rack that can cause movement, also your end links
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 11:52 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 619Rider
The is a small bushing into the steering rack that can cause movement, also your end links
I've already brought that up in another thread, the steering rack or the rack bushings doesn't really contribute to vibration. If the vibration comes in and out it's definitely the control arm bushings. I've already bought new spacers, hub centric rings and got my wheels balanced and rebalanced and the vibration is still there or at least come in and out depending on road conditions and at the end what the OG's suggested that it was the bushings turns out to be the bushings.
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 08:44 AM
  #39  
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Literally was having the same problem. Went to a shop like a year ago and they told me I had a bent rim. They tried to balance it with enough weights to sink a ship, and it helped but only marginally. Didn't have the headroom to spring for some rims until last week. I mean driving on these things was a nightmare. I have no idea why but whien I got it up to highway speeds it felt like i was hydroplaning. It was effing insane. I hated driving, b/c I thought my wheels were gonna fall off. (trust me I checked over everything and they weren't going anywhere) Finally got the new ones on there with some hub centric rings and it felt like a different car. Same average tires and everything, but damn, it feels amazing. So naturally, 3 days after I get new rims and and my car is running great I get this horrible idling problem that I still haven't figured out.
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 08:49 AM
  #40  
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^^^ my rims are brand new so that cant be the issue with mine but i guess these cars are prone to the same exact behaviors... i put my brand new rims on balanced to zero... everything perfect and my car ides weird too now... lmfao. i thought it was my imagination but i guess the same happened to u
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 08:56 AM
  #41  
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Think I'm just going to do an overhaul of my bushings, flex driveshaft things, replace rear shocks and see how it goes. Probably do this over the winter though as I had my alignment done for my 19"s and I don't want to do a bunch of suspension stuff then have to realign only for a few months before I install my winter set up in the mid fall season.

oh, I have idle issues too
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 08:56 AM
  #42  
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Don't mean to get off the thread, but what is your idle doing right now? Mine keeps going from like 1200-2000 rpm and just keeps going up and down like a cylce. i think my MAF is good (unplugged it and engine ran like hell), took the IACV out and cleaned it (no change), so could it be the EGR?? I started a thread about it, so I you have any input you can move it over there.

As far as the shaking issue, have you done anything with the LCA bushings? I'm thinking about throwing some more money at mine for some supra LCA's if I can figure out the idle issue on the cheap.
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 09:04 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by canman44
Don't mean to get off the thread, but what is your idle doing right now? Mine keeps going from like 1200-2000 rpm and just keeps going up and down like a cylce. i think my MAF is good (unplugged it and engine ran like hell), took the IACV out and cleaned it (no change), so could it be the EGR?? I started a thread about it, so I you have any input you can move it over there.

As far as the shaking issue, have you done anything with the LCA bushings? I'm thinking about throwing some more money at mine for some supra LCA's if I can figure out the idle issue on the cheap.
Haven't touched any of the bushings since I bought the car. I just spent $1,500 on a 90k timing belt/waterpump service along with replacing every gasket and a new distributor.

When I get things done, I just do everything at once and throw the book at it. So, when I save up another thousand towards maintenance I'll replace all of the bushings, tie rods, end links, flex driveshaft things, shocks, etc. I have no clue what labor charges are going to be but I assume near a grand to get it all done. I don't have the time or mechanical skill to do it myself.
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 09:19 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Tabaka
Haven't touched any of the bushings since I bought the car. I just spent $1,500 on a 90k timing belt/waterpump service along with replacing every gasket and a new distributor.

When I get things done, I just do everything at once and throw the book at it. So, when I save up another thousand towards maintenance I'll replace all of the bushings, tie rods, end links, flex driveshaft things, shocks, etc. I have no clue what labor charges are going to be but I assume near a grand to get it all done. I don't have the time or mechanical skill to do it myself.
I suppose if you're gonna do it, do it right. I'm pretty sure that you could do most of that stuff yourself though. None of it is too difficult and if you're replacing everything at the same time that would help with the install, since everything will already be off. That said, I feel you on the time commitment to these types of projects. Time is not at my disposal either, and I no longer have a second form of transportation b/c some d*** sucking f***h*** stole it.
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 11:10 AM
  #45  
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my idle doesnt jump up and down it just is always too high... in park like at 1500 and in drive(auto) its like at 1100-1200.

as for the suspension... im on the same boat as tabaka, i just did the f/subframe, rack and pinion, wheels, tires, alignment, balance, centering rings all at once so imma see if its worth even trying the lca bushings or i might just sell mine and get another one.

i had bought another sc, a newer one, but sold it to my uncle. now i need to find another one. i think the 97+have fewer issues with suspension components. can anyone confirm this? i hate the answer to be yes, i like my year better
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