Well fellas.. WOuld like some direction on this topic. After the swap was done, the Check engine light doesn't illuminate. Im sure this is due to the swap. I tried to do a search a few times but come up empty, possibly due to the key words utilized.

I appreciate anyones insight on this topic.

Jae

 

one of the pins on the 1JZ engine harness does not match up with the body pinout. Im in the process of sourcing mine, but in the meantime there is a ghetto way to get codes out of it.

1) go under the hood and look for the diagnostic port. with a piece of jumper wire, jump ports E1 and TE1.

2) go to the ECU and look for the 16 pin plug (the smallest one.) look on pin #3 for a blue wire w/ a gold stripe. Back probe this using pin or a paper clip.

3) Find a good 12V power source somewhere near by. With a volt meter, hook the positive side to 12V and the negative side to the pin you just back probed.

4) Turn the key to the on position. You voltmeter will start pegging to 12V in a pattern. those are you codes. Count the number of times it pegs 12V and you'll have your codes.

Im probably going to leave my CEL unhooked and splice in a harness where i can check CELs from time to time. I keep getting a code for a fuel circuit, probably from the 12V fuel mod.

 

Good input.. I was able to source the 1JZGTE pinout and trying to source the body plug pinout and see if the pins arent matching.. If so, will make the necessary adjustments and revert. I would like to have it functioning but the tapping in a harness to check for codes on a monthly basis would work as well...

 

Can't you read the code by doing those steps but reading the amount of check engine blinks and pattern?

 

Unfortunately... thats a no.. Reason being is the check engine light isnt illuminating, so you wouldnt be able to see the check engine light blinking..
Hence the reason for the thread.. He was just giving me/CL a method to read codes..

 

yes and no. By watching the voltage vary between 0 and 12 volts it creates a pattern, just like the one when it was hooked up to the check engine light. It might be easier to read it off of an analog volt meter, but i wouldn't reccomend it with an ECU.

Here is where how u read the codes based off a normal check engine light setup: http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

 

I have a fix.... coming soon to a thread near you

edit: heres the thread for the fix

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post5732901