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DIY: Door Panel repair

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Old 05-30-10, 09:04 AM
  #16  
FireCode
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Originally Posted by MongooseGA
I agree with your point, but I figured I'd point out that "mines" is actually a word. Like coal mines, land mines, yadda yadda...



I had my panels off a few weeks ago and noticed how so many pieces have cracked over time. Little rattles everywhere. What sort of product could be used to sound proof that kind of stuff? Just a liquid nails sort of thing in the gaps?
Ahhh you ruined my mojo I was referring to showing ownership and when "mines" is used to in that sense, it is not a word.
Old 05-30-10, 09:18 AM
  #17  
RyanV
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Great idea!

Sticky please..
Old 05-30-10, 01:01 PM
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Banikid
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Originally Posted by FireCode
Please for the love of humanity...."mines" is not a word in any shape, form or fashion. To show ownership, you only have to say "mine." No "S" is needed. Drives me up the dang wall. I'm not hating on you as there are TONS of people who do it.

Back on topic...I will do this next weekend!
LOL You sound exactly like my old English teacher. Are you Mr.Skaff? lol

Finished doing this and my door feels stronger than before. Thanks for this DIY!
Old 05-30-10, 03:44 PM
  #19  
kez
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whhaaaaaattt nice doin this since gorilla super glue sucks!
Old 05-30-10, 06:36 PM
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tcrow31
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That's awesome man...I was planning on doing this but couldn't figure out what kind of epoxy to use. Never even thought about liquid nails. Great write up man!
Old 05-31-10, 04:38 PM
  #21  
dwebb99
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Buy small sheets of tin at Home Depot/Lowes, cut to size/shape with tin snips or heavy duty scissors, bend the tin strips to shape/size and use your epoxy/liquid nails/whatever glue fits your application and go to town on the repair. Works like a charm. In my opinion it's the best way to fix (on the backside of interior parts) broken plastic interior bits.
Old 05-31-10, 04:39 PM
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dwebb99
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BTW, ALWAYS scuff up the surfaces to be glued with rough sand paper to insure a good long lasting adhesion.
Old 05-31-10, 05:12 PM
  #23  
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i went for something a little more rigid and in more opinion a little more cosmetically pleasing....
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same idea though... and gawd these door panels are just awful.
Old 05-31-10, 06:27 PM
  #24  
O. L. T.
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Originally Posted by dwebb99
Buy small sheets of tin at Home Depot/Lowes, cut to size/shape with tin snips or heavy duty scissors, bend the tin strips to shape/size and use your epoxy/liquid nails/whatever glue fits your application and go to town on the repair. Works like a charm. In my opinion it's the best way to fix (on the backside of interior parts) broken plastic interior bits.
Tin pieces do not have the holes the backstrap has for the sealant to flow through and adhere. It has to depend on surface adhesion instead of the physical "wraparound" it has flowing THROUGH the backstrap.
Old 05-31-10, 06:29 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by That-Guy
i went for something a little more rigid and in more opinion a little more cosmetically pleasing....
same idea though... and gawd these door panels are just awful.
There's certainly nothing wrong with those! They look good for sure, though they are mounted under the armrest so they are never seen. It defeats the purpose of the extra work, but I agree they look nice. My only complaint is the same as above, you have to depend on adhesion to one side where the wrap around backstrap grabs two sides with adhesion for double strength (front and back of the hole) as well as the flow through strength.
Old 06-01-10, 10:20 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by O. L. T.

Add the liquid nail.




Profit.


Hmmm .... While there's no question this will definitely hold the panel on, my concern about this would be the irregular mounting surface that results from the build up of the metal strap and the liquid nails glue gobs. I know it's nit picking, but it seems that a smooth flat mounting surface would have more surface area friction (ie. holding power) than an irregular surface. Plus, it's effectively "shimming" the handle part of the door panel away from the inner panel. A small issue to be sure, but IMHO, it potentially involves the whole annoying ergonomic issue about the door panels in the first place....that awful loose, flexing, 'un-solid' feeling they can have. I just wonder how this will loosen in time and return to that feeling I can't stand

$.02



OH, BTW....I'd say it's WELL worth it to replace the plastic thread inserts in the door (that receives the mounting screws for this panel) too.
Old 06-01-10, 11:24 AM
  #27  
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Yeah, non issue. That situation doesn't exist and can't because it is not the inside of the engine, it's a door panel that doesn't operate within those tolerances. Matter of fact the panel is almost sloppy in it's gaps. Inside of an engine, that micrometer approach would be very relevant. You can't shim something that already has a 3mm gap in sag alone.
Old 06-01-10, 03:30 PM
  #28  
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Once that bracket breaks, the whole door falls apart.

Here was my solution. 1" piece of aluminum bent to connect the screw holding the armest to the door with a hole for the long screw to attach the door panel to the door. Tough as hell and very easy! It uses no glue and has multiple screw attachment points for strength.


Last edited by shern; 06-01-10 at 03:33 PM.
Old 06-02-10, 08:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by shern
Once that bracket breaks, the whole door falls apart.
You got that shAt right.

I see where you're going with that, as long as the rest of the bracket holds we're good with backstrap. If a catastrophic failure happens of the entire elbow, you got a great setup there.
Old 06-03-10, 06:48 PM
  #30  
sc250tt
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Nice diy! Mines isn't catastrophic yet but a few more hard pulls will be.. Gonna do mines this weekend.


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