Ahhh you ruined my mojo I was referring to showing ownership and when "mines" is used to in that sense, it is not a word.

 

Great idea!

Sticky please..

 

LOL You sound exactly like my old English teacher. Are you Mr.Skaff? lol

Finished doing this and my door feels stronger than before. Thanks for this DIY!

 

whhaaaaaattt nice doin this since gorilla super glue sucks!

 

That's awesome man...I was planning on doing this but couldn't figure out what kind of epoxy to use. Never even thought about liquid nails. Great write up man!

 

Buy small sheets of tin at Home Depot/Lowes, cut to size/shape with tin snips or heavy duty scissors, bend the tin strips to shape/size and use your epoxy/liquid nails/whatever glue fits your application and go to town on the repair. Works like a charm. In my opinion it's the best way to fix (on the backside of interior parts) broken plastic interior bits.

 

BTW, ALWAYS scuff up the surfaces to be glued with rough sand paper to insure a good long lasting adhesion.

 

i went for something a little more rigid and in more opinion a little more cosmetically pleasing....


same idea though... and gawd these door panels are just awful.

 

Tin pieces do not have the holes the backstrap has for the sealant to flow through and adhere. It has to depend on surface adhesion instead of the physical "wraparound" it has flowing THROUGH the backstrap.

 

There's certainly nothing wrong with those! They look good for sure, though they are mounted under the armrest so they are never seen. It defeats the purpose of the extra work, but I agree they look nice. My only complaint is the same as above, you have to depend on adhesion to one side where the wrap around backstrap grabs two sides with adhesion for double strength (front and back of the hole) as well as the flow through strength.

 

Hmmm .... While there's no question this will definitely hold the panel on, my concern about this would be the irregular mounting surface that results from the build up of the metal strap and the liquid nails glue gobs. I know it's nit picking, but it seems that a smooth flat mounting surface would have more surface area friction (ie. holding power) than an irregular surface. Plus, it's effectively "shimming" the handle part of the door panel away from the inner panel. A small issue to be sure, but IMHO, it potentially involves the whole annoying ergonomic issue about the door panels in the first place....that awful loose, flexing, 'un-solid' feeling they can have. I just wonder how this will loosen in time and return to that feeling I can't stand

$.02



OH, BTW....I'd say it's WELL worth it to replace the plastic thread inserts in the door (that receives the mounting screws for this panel) too.

 

Yeah, non issue. That situation doesn't exist and can't because it is not the inside of the engine, it's a door panel that doesn't operate within those tolerances. Matter of fact the panel is almost sloppy in it's gaps. Inside of an engine, that micrometer approach would be very relevant. You can't shim something that already has a 3mm gap in sag alone.

 

Once that bracket breaks, the whole door falls apart.

Here was my solution. 1" piece of aluminum bent to connect the screw holding the armest to the door with a hole for the long screw to attach the door panel to the door. Tough as hell and very easy! It uses no glue and has multiple screw attachment points for strength.

 

You got that shAt right.

I see where you're going with that, as long as the rest of the bracket holds we're good with backstrap. If a catastrophic failure happens of the entire elbow, you got a great setup there.

 

Nice diy! Mines isn't catastrophic yet but a few more hard pulls will be.. Gonna do mines this weekend.