2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#4277
Driver School Candidate
Questions.
Ali sc3, I’m in the market for a new standalone ECU and I’m new to the import/tuner world. I seen that MAXXEcu has a PnP adapter harness for the MKIV Supra. I was wondering if it would mate up to my 1995 SC300 2jz with A340E trans or would I have to modify? The other question, besides a Supra TT ECU is there another standalone that will directly mate to the SC300 that is reputable? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#4278
This thread is meant for using the TT ecu which is a factory ecu for a 2jzgte. A standalone is an aftermarket ecu that replaces the stock ecu.
The stock TT ecu or the tt ecu mod is the most reliable setup but limited to 440-550cc injectors for it to run really well.
a standalone can run well but it is all in the tune, get a bad tune and it will run badly. They can have reliability issues depending on your setup and your tune.
I would talk to the person who you will get to tune it and see which standalone they prefer to tune, cause if you can't get the standalone you choose tuned properly, its going to to run badly.
That being said, I don't trust the intro level standalones alot of them have sensor pickup issues and some are hard to find tuners for.
If you can afford it, I have heard the best reviews for the pro efi ecu, both in features and tunability on the 2J. next one I would try would be an aem but I personally would lean towards the pro efi.
The stock TT ecu or the tt ecu mod is the most reliable setup but limited to 440-550cc injectors for it to run really well.
a standalone can run well but it is all in the tune, get a bad tune and it will run badly. They can have reliability issues depending on your setup and your tune.
I would talk to the person who you will get to tune it and see which standalone they prefer to tune, cause if you can't get the standalone you choose tuned properly, its going to to run badly.
That being said, I don't trust the intro level standalones alot of them have sensor pickup issues and some are hard to find tuners for.
If you can afford it, I have heard the best reviews for the pro efi ecu, both in features and tunability on the 2J. next one I would try would be an aem but I personally would lean towards the pro efi.
#4279
Driver School Candidate
Hi guys! Quick question.. those of you who are running 2j/1j VVTI wasted spark coil packs & igniter on your 2jzge Non-VVTI, how did you set the timing?? With the timing gun connected to cyl 1 plug wire, wouldn’t it read 2 Ignition signals throwing the timing reading off a bit?? Also, I’m only on 10lbs of boost with TT ecu, what are you guys running your timing at with similar set ups?
#4280
If I remember correctly I had mine set to 10 degrees and yes with a timing light , my car had tt head gasket and arp head studs , refer back to alis write up, on a stock auto 15psi my car ripped
#4281
Hi guys! Quick question.. those of you who are running 2j/1j VVTI wasted spark coil packs & igniter on your 2jzge Non-VVTI, how did you set the timing?? With the timing gun connected to cyl 1 plug wire, wouldn’t it read 2 Ignition signals throwing the timing reading off a bit?? Also, I’m only on 10lbs of boost with TT ecu, what are you guys running your timing at with similar set ups?
Both are the same timing mark, so you wont notice anything different on a stock ecu (or even a standalone unless you have individual cylinder trims which most wouldn't).
So it will just flash every crank turn instead of every 2 crank turns making it easier to read
The only thing you want to avoid is using a "dial back" timing light which are the digital ones you enter the timing number into, those will not work correctly with wasted spark unless they are set to act like a regular timing light.
#4282
Driver School Candidate
Regular timing light will be fine on cyl 1 plug wire. The light will flash on cyl 1 top dead center (TDC) and it will also flash on TDC for cyl 6 because of wasted spark.
Both are the same timing mark, so you wont notice anything different on a stock ecu (or even a standalone unless you have individual cylinder trims which most wouldn't).
So it will just flash every crank turn instead of every 2 crank turns making it easier to read
The only thing you want to avoid is using a "dial back" timing light which are the digital ones you enter the timing number into, those will not work correctly with wasted spark unless they are set to act like a regular timing light.
Both are the same timing mark, so you wont notice anything different on a stock ecu (or even a standalone unless you have individual cylinder trims which most wouldn't).
So it will just flash every crank turn instead of every 2 crank turns making it easier to read
The only thing you want to avoid is using a "dial back" timing light which are the digital ones you enter the timing number into, those will not work correctly with wasted spark unless they are set to act like a regular timing light.
Had to make a couple stops while I was out there
#4284
What exact Ecu part #(s)
I cannot believe the plethora of knowledge held in these forums. Ali, time for my dumb question that couldn’t find answer to. I am 99 sc300 VVTI with FFIM and R154 - should I get any JDM VVTI GTE ECU? There’s SOOO MANY of them. Different part #s some are cheap some are expensive. Is there a list of part #s for the ECU that will work? Are any of them better than another ?
thank you!!
#4285
You will definitely want one without the immobilizer. If you look at the plugs the one with the immobilizers will have a extra grey plug on the right side, the ones without it will be just have a blank metal cover there.
It would be best if you can find a vvti supra ecu as the supra a/c setup is closer to the same as the SC.
If you get a vvti aristo ecu you will need some kind of workaround for a/c, you cant just put in a relay like when using a non vvti aristo ecu in an SC.
A vvti supra 6spd ecu with no immobilizer would be perfect for a vvti sc manual setup, but might be hard to find and more expensive.
next best a vvti supra auto ecu, but I am not sure if you will go into limp mode without the automatic being there, there might be a workaround or simulator for that like the ATEMU or something similar.
last would be the vvti aristo ecu (all automatic) and have to do something separate for the a/c and address the missing auto like above.
The non vvti ecu's weren't as sensitive to the missing auto transmission, but the vvti ones might affect power but could possibly be worked around.
I would probably go standalone at this point since you are manual unless you can find a supra 6spd vvti ecu, you'll get more features and less headache.
Even if you get the right ecu etc.. there are always the issues with the electronic throttle bodies sooner or later so vvti it isn't as simple of a choice unfortunately.
The discussion was a little while ago on this thread for the a/c stuff, would have to go back and look at it.
It would be best if you can find a vvti supra ecu as the supra a/c setup is closer to the same as the SC.
If you get a vvti aristo ecu you will need some kind of workaround for a/c, you cant just put in a relay like when using a non vvti aristo ecu in an SC.
A vvti supra 6spd ecu with no immobilizer would be perfect for a vvti sc manual setup, but might be hard to find and more expensive.
next best a vvti supra auto ecu, but I am not sure if you will go into limp mode without the automatic being there, there might be a workaround or simulator for that like the ATEMU or something similar.
last would be the vvti aristo ecu (all automatic) and have to do something separate for the a/c and address the missing auto like above.
The non vvti ecu's weren't as sensitive to the missing auto transmission, but the vvti ones might affect power but could possibly be worked around.
I would probably go standalone at this point since you are manual unless you can find a supra 6spd vvti ecu, you'll get more features and less headache.
Even if you get the right ecu etc.. there are always the issues with the electronic throttle bodies sooner or later so vvti it isn't as simple of a choice unfortunately.
The discussion was a little while ago on this thread for the a/c stuff, would have to go back and look at it.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-11-21 at 01:23 PM.
#4286
Thanks for that reply Ali, I’m impressed by your experience with all of this. I’d like to try to 6speed TT VVTI Ecu because I’d like this car to have all the stock features without having any issues of reliability. It’s also a much cheaper option and my VVTI motor is not built yet so I figured less than 400 WHP I could get away with for some time.
If you REALLY think it will be too much of a head ache and if no one has really done it than I’ll just go stand alone to save myself a headache. But if you think it’s manageable to run that TT ecu 6speed non-immobilized ECU than I’d give it a shot. But I really don’t want to move forward without your blessing either way LOL
my goals are simple right now : reliable, 350-400hp, a little bit of boost, nice cruiser etc. bagged and boosted as they would say.
so to stay this OEM route: 6Speed JDM VVTI **SUPRA*** non-immobilized ECU correct? From your beginning post I know that wasn’t offered in the USDM version. If that will make it easiest I’ll do that.
If you REALLY think it will be too much of a head ache and if no one has really done it than I’ll just go stand alone to save myself a headache. But if you think it’s manageable to run that TT ecu 6speed non-immobilized ECU than I’d give it a shot. But I really don’t want to move forward without your blessing either way LOL
my goals are simple right now : reliable, 350-400hp, a little bit of boost, nice cruiser etc. bagged and boosted as they would say.
so to stay this OEM route: 6Speed JDM VVTI **SUPRA*** non-immobilized ECU correct? From your beginning post I know that wasn’t offered in the USDM version. If that will make it easiest I’ll do that.
Last edited by jwynn; 06-12-21 at 06:49 AM.
#4287
It can be done without too much extra work if you find that supra vvti GTE 6speed ecu and all the vvti gte ecu's are JDM.
You will need swap your maf for the vvti TT maf and wire in a separate tt map sensor as that ecu uses both.
There might be some other small changes but that is most of it, if you can find the ecu and currently all your electronic throttle body stuff is working as in your engine is running fine then it is very doable.
You will need swap your maf for the vvti TT maf and wire in a separate tt map sensor as that ecu uses both.
There might be some other small changes but that is most of it, if you can find the ecu and currently all your electronic throttle body stuff is working as in your engine is running fine then it is very doable.
#4288
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: TX
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Hey so I finally figured out my issue, turns out one of my injectors was stuck open....oops... anyways now I have a new issue, my car will idle fine up until it starts warming up. It just shuts off and then will start only for a second then turn off, any thoughts