2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
09-28-17, 03:20 PM
#3451
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the ecu connector and pins are almost identical between a vvti 2jzge and vvti 2jzgte, there may be a couple pins that are different and I think I sent you a link to page 83 something that shows the pinouts.
the MAF has an IAT built in and is already wired on both the ge and gte harnesses. the coilpacks are wired the same on all vvti harnesses so you wont have to change anything there.
you will have to add the wiring for the map sensor if using the USDM 2jzge vvti harness.
some more info would help, like what car/year it is going into and what harnesses you have and which ones you are trying to use.
if your harness are out of an IS300, if you try and use the IS300 harness on a SC300 body, you will have to rewire the side that goes into the body plug of the car.
I''m assuming you are swapping into a sc300, so you could avoid body plug rewiring by using a sc300 98+ 2jzge vvti harness the SC was a later year model (I am not sure if the body plugs are the same for all years).
the engine side connector/wires are the same on a SC vs IS harness, it's the body plug that are different.
there is a thread in the performance section of someone doing a vvti ecu, so check that out also for more specific info.
he said there wasn't much differences at all on the pinouts, which makes sense cause in the old mod most of it was due to ignition being different, but on vvti the ignition is the same across the board.
map sensor you will need to wire if the ecu cares about it, not sure what it does without it but it will run with just the maf at the least until you get to it.
the MAF has an IAT built in and is already wired on both the ge and gte harnesses. the coilpacks are wired the same on all vvti harnesses so you wont have to change anything there.
you will have to add the wiring for the map sensor if using the USDM 2jzge vvti harness.
some more info would help, like what car/year it is going into and what harnesses you have and which ones you are trying to use.
if your harness are out of an IS300, if you try and use the IS300 harness on a SC300 body, you will have to rewire the side that goes into the body plug of the car.
I''m assuming you are swapping into a sc300, so you could avoid body plug rewiring by using a sc300 98+ 2jzge vvti harness the SC was a later year model (I am not sure if the body plugs are the same for all years).
the engine side connector/wires are the same on a SC vs IS harness, it's the body plug that are different.
there is a thread in the performance section of someone doing a vvti ecu, so check that out also for more specific info.
he said there wasn't much differences at all on the pinouts, which makes sense cause in the old mod most of it was due to ignition being different, but on vvti the ignition is the same across the board.
map sensor you will need to wire if the ecu cares about it, not sure what it does without it but it will run with just the maf at the least until you get to it.
The vehicle that its goin into is actually a 1989 toyota pickup. So no body wire is needed. I already trimmed my harness to the bare minimum to run the lexus ignition and engine harness in my truck, so that makes it a lot easier. Also, the Ecu that i found is an aristo ecu that is vvti 2jzgte so i think it should work.
I did just compare the two pinouts, 2001 is300 and aristo vvti 2jzgte. they are alomst identical, excluding the immobilzer plug, but my aristo ecu doent even have the immobilizer plug. There are four pins on both ecu's that would interfere with eachother. For example on the GE ecu, pin 9 on connector e6 runs the Power steering pressure switch but on the aristo ecu that same pin is the signal for the map sensor. So i will just have to break these wires so the ecu isnt reading false information and in the case of that pin, connect it to the map signal. So in total, 3 wires have to be cut and one has to be changed to the map signal.
Not sure if i need the power steering pressure switch for the pump to operate normal, ill have to look that one up.
I was also going to try and tap into the ECT signal to run a temp gauge and tap into the tac signal to get my RPM's. Not sure if you can just tap into them though.
The GE ecu also uses a lot more O2 sensors, but i think the GTE ecu will be fine without them.
also the obd2 pins are in the same location, so why woudnt you retain the obd2? just because its a JDM ecu?
This is what i got when comparing the two pin outs, Although, ill look into the vvti ecu swap that you mentioned in the performance section.
Thanks for the help.
09-28-17, 04:23 PM
#3452
Cool swap, I might end up doing a similar one at some point so this is good info.
Yeah the body plug on those vehicles is pretty minimal, but you will have to wire that eventually for power, ground, ignition, etc.. and to get the stock cluster to work is only a few more wires.
Obviously there isn't a stock 2jz harness for that swap.
Sounds like you got it figured out with the pin differences, you do not need the power steering pressure switch input for the aristo ecu, so just reuse those wires for the map sensor then, which will save running a new wire the whole length of the way and is probably close to the intake manifold anyways.
the 2jz usually has 2 coolant sensors, one for the ecu and one for the stock gauge cluster. whichever harness you use, besides the ecu connector it will have another plug that goes to the body chassis harness of the car.
This plug will have a wire for the coolant temp gauge and a wire for the tachometer already there, there is no need to tap into these signals.
I want to say all the '89 pickups came with EFI, so they also have a body plug harness that uses these same signals and power and switched ignition etc.. they should all match up just find the diagram for the trucks harness, then you can connect them and use the stock dash which is how I would do it.
You can borrow that plug with a good length of wire from a spare truck engine harness and wire that to your 2JZ harness to make your own "hybrid" harness which you can use on any similar truck.
the only issue is to get the tach to work, for our cars we jump a resistor on the back of the tach which lets it work with the tach signal from multi-channel toyota ignitors.
the older 1 channel toyota ignitors used with distributors have a different signal and that is what came on your '89 if it was EFI, so you would have to figure out how to modify it but its probably been done so see if you can search for it.
obd2 doesn't work because Japan doesn't use that same protocol, they use something called JOBD and it won't work for emissions here. you can get the right software and do diagnostics with it though.. at least I have heard that.
The differences with the aristo and supra ecu's are usually that you can get the supra with a 6 speed one, which has a higher rev limit and works better with a manual trans (although you can run manual trans with auto ecu).
not sure about the vvti ecu, but on the non-vvti the supra would control the a/c like stock, on the aristo you had to put in a relay cause one ecu looks for ground, the other for power. its a small thing though and not sure if its like that with the vvti ecu also but if the compressor won't kick on then you know why.
Yeah the body plug on those vehicles is pretty minimal, but you will have to wire that eventually for power, ground, ignition, etc.. and to get the stock cluster to work is only a few more wires.
Obviously there isn't a stock 2jz harness for that swap.
Sounds like you got it figured out with the pin differences, you do not need the power steering pressure switch input for the aristo ecu, so just reuse those wires for the map sensor then, which will save running a new wire the whole length of the way and is probably close to the intake manifold anyways.
the 2jz usually has 2 coolant sensors, one for the ecu and one for the stock gauge cluster. whichever harness you use, besides the ecu connector it will have another plug that goes to the body chassis harness of the car.
This plug will have a wire for the coolant temp gauge and a wire for the tachometer already there, there is no need to tap into these signals.
I want to say all the '89 pickups came with EFI, so they also have a body plug harness that uses these same signals and power and switched ignition etc.. they should all match up just find the diagram for the trucks harness, then you can connect them and use the stock dash which is how I would do it.
You can borrow that plug with a good length of wire from a spare truck engine harness and wire that to your 2JZ harness to make your own "hybrid" harness which you can use on any similar truck.
the only issue is to get the tach to work, for our cars we jump a resistor on the back of the tach which lets it work with the tach signal from multi-channel toyota ignitors.
the older 1 channel toyota ignitors used with distributors have a different signal and that is what came on your '89 if it was EFI, so you would have to figure out how to modify it but its probably been done so see if you can search for it.
obd2 doesn't work because Japan doesn't use that same protocol, they use something called JOBD and it won't work for emissions here. you can get the right software and do diagnostics with it though.. at least I have heard that.
The differences with the aristo and supra ecu's are usually that you can get the supra with a 6 speed one, which has a higher rev limit and works better with a manual trans (although you can run manual trans with auto ecu).
not sure about the vvti ecu, but on the non-vvti the supra would control the a/c like stock, on the aristo you had to put in a relay cause one ecu looks for ground, the other for power. its a small thing though and not sure if its like that with the vvti ecu also but if the compressor won't kick on then you know why.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-28-17 at 04:27 PM.
09-29-17, 07:48 AM
#3453
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Thanks for all the info! I dont want to use my stock gauge cluster because it doesnt have a tach. But still good information, now i dont have to tap into signals, just simply look for the plug that goes to the lexus gauge cluster.
I read online that you tap into one of the wires off the igniter for the tach signal, i tried this but i coudn't get an accurate reading, must be because i need that resistor. We'll see how that goes, along with the ecu swap. I ordered my ecu and map/maf sensor's yesterday so hopefully i can get started on it pretty quick.
thanks again.
I read online that you tap into one of the wires off the igniter for the tach signal, i tried this but i coudn't get an accurate reading, must be because i need that resistor. We'll see how that goes, along with the ecu swap. I ordered my ecu and map/maf sensor's yesterday so hopefully i can get started on it pretty quick.
thanks again.
09-29-17, 10:43 AM
#3454
Yeah the spot on the ignitor for the tach on some vehicles is routed into the car for the cluster and is on some body plug, on some vehicles harnesses its not there so you add the pin to the ignitor.
I think there are different types of tachs so you will need a universal one that works with the multichannel ignitor signal. you could tap into IGF also (like piggybacks do like safc etc.. to get a rpm reading), but its basically the same signal as the tach output.
I think there are different types of tachs so you will need a universal one that works with the multichannel ignitor signal. you could tap into IGF also (like piggybacks do like safc etc.. to get a rpm reading), but its basically the same signal as the tach output.
09-30-17, 12:14 PM
#3455
can you list your whole setup again. you shouldn't have that many fueling issues with the tt ecu mod and you will hit boost cut around 17 psi at this altitude, so you need the bcc past that. hitting mid 12 afr wise in first is not a big deal, you wont have that much boost or load generally in first gear, so it shouldn't be an issue. I used to run 12 afr's in higher gears, but you don't want to get past 12.5:1 above 2nd, you want to be more on the 12 side.
loosing the boost cut feature can be a big deal if you overboost due to a melted line or line coming off wastegate etc... but it depends how much safety factor you have in your setup too. That is one of the reasons I ran the map ecu, its more complicated to get running right (way more) but you can keep the boost cut feature. you could also just set it to below boost cut and run with that until you get everything sorted out and then look to increase boost. with some 550's and a piggyback and your altitude you should be able to run a good amount before hitting boost cut as puling the map signal via a piggyback will also raise boost cut.
ignition wise what was your setup again and current plugs and gap? you want the most gap without washing out the spark. air fuel ratio will impact how far you can go, if your running rich then the gap will have to come down, if your tune is dialed in you can get away with larger gaps. also the coilpacks will allow for larger gaps. there isn't a one size fits all gaps you will have to experiment but generally smaller gap will be more consistent with less power, but larger gap can make more power but can be more touchy. IF you are currently having ignition issues, going to a larger gap isn't likely to help.
loosing the boost cut feature can be a big deal if you overboost due to a melted line or line coming off wastegate etc... but it depends how much safety factor you have in your setup too. That is one of the reasons I ran the map ecu, its more complicated to get running right (way more) but you can keep the boost cut feature. you could also just set it to below boost cut and run with that until you get everything sorted out and then look to increase boost. with some 550's and a piggyback and your altitude you should be able to run a good amount before hitting boost cut as puling the map signal via a piggyback will also raise boost cut.
ignition wise what was your setup again and current plugs and gap? you want the most gap without washing out the spark. air fuel ratio will impact how far you can go, if your running rich then the gap will have to come down, if your tune is dialed in you can get away with larger gaps. also the coilpacks will allow for larger gaps. there isn't a one size fits all gaps you will have to experiment but generally smaller gap will be more consistent with less power, but larger gap can make more power but can be more touchy. IF you are currently having ignition issues, going to a larger gap isn't likely to help.
tt ecu mod supra map sensor gm intake air temp sensor
tt denso stock new fuel pump
pretty sure i've got the stock plugs a supra uses but i don't 100% remember what i put in it they are probably 6-8 months old but even when they were new it was the same
is300 coil packs
So its goes to 9-1 fuel ratio after about 5psi but no cut in boost its increases steadily till 17 psi
I have an apexi neo, i was able to pull 15% fuel and 2'd and 3rd gear were in the 11's air fuel ratio wise first is 13s. I if pulled 10%fuel get get first into 12s but second is 10s and third is 9's again I unhooked the thing because i was having a hard start in the morning it would just crank for a while and not start. Without it everything is all good.
10-01-17, 08:20 AM
#3456
That is interesting that its still so rich on the top end without it, maybe the injectors they gave you flow more than they said or they mixed them up with 500's or 550's.
The stock tt ecu's are kinda designed to dump fuel and go at 10:1 but usually with a bigger turbo that will lean out up top.
What kind of turbo are you running? If you are running a smaller turbo that could help explain the numbers being so rich also.
I'm assuming you have a boost controller in there, that can help get more spool which will bring the afr's down cause it will prevent boost creep on the wastegate.
The percentages at 15% sound pretty good, not sure why you are having the hard start then.
Also being in colorado the elevation doesn't help with the rich problem as there is less density up here, but on the top end it should lean out some more.
The stock tt ecu's are kinda designed to dump fuel and go at 10:1 but usually with a bigger turbo that will lean out up top.
What kind of turbo are you running? If you are running a smaller turbo that could help explain the numbers being so rich also.
I'm assuming you have a boost controller in there, that can help get more spool which will bring the afr's down cause it will prevent boost creep on the wastegate.
The percentages at 15% sound pretty good, not sure why you are having the hard start then.
Also being in colorado the elevation doesn't help with the rich problem as there is less density up here, but on the top end it should lean out some more.
10-01-17, 06:44 PM
#3457
That is interesting that its still so rich on the top end without it, maybe the injectors they gave you flow more than they said or they mixed them up with 500's or 550's.
The stock tt ecu's are kinda designed to dump fuel and go at 10:1 but usually with a bigger turbo that will lean out up top.
What kind of turbo are you running? If you are running a smaller turbo that could help explain the numbers being so rich also.
I'm assuming you have a boost controller in there, that can help get more spool which will bring the afr's down cause it will prevent boost creep on the wastegate.
The percentages at 15% sound pretty good, not sure why you are having the hard start then.
Also being in colorado the elevation doesn't help with the rich problem as there is less density up here, but on the top end it should lean out some more.
The stock tt ecu's are kinda designed to dump fuel and go at 10:1 but usually with a bigger turbo that will lean out up top.
What kind of turbo are you running? If you are running a smaller turbo that could help explain the numbers being so rich also.
I'm assuming you have a boost controller in there, that can help get more spool which will bring the afr's down cause it will prevent boost creep on the wastegate.
The percentages at 15% sound pretty good, not sure why you are having the hard start then.
Also being in colorado the elevation doesn't help with the rich problem as there is less density up here, but on the top end it should lean out some more.
I do think that maybe the fuel injectors are 440cc at 40psi and with our rising pressure regulator i'm hitting 57 psi of fuel pressure where these injectors may turn into 500ccs or more
11-09-17, 01:19 PM
#3459
So last week, I took the time to perform the ECU swap. Here is my list of parts:
- Aristo ECU
- VVTI Coil Packs
- DS61 Igniter
- GTE VVTI Map Sensor - 89421-12111
- 500cc osidetiger injectors
- GM IAT
- Denso TT Stock Fuel Pump
The car cranks, starts for a second then stalls. It has not run for longer than maybe 2 seconds since I finished the swap and wiring.
Checked the codes, 21 and 14.
21 - The Heated O2 sensor isn't installed yet, but will be added today since I needed a bung to install it... Shouldnt' stop the car from running though.
14 - IGT signal... So I've checked continuity on this wire twice, I've verified that it is connected correctly (but will check again today).
I had my dad check my wiring against the diagrams here and he found that everything was connected correctly. We tested continuity across all the wires (new and old) and found that they are all intact.
This thing really has me bummed out since it is my DD. I'm fortunate to have my wife's car for the time being, but sharing a car is truly a first world problem (at least i can admit that) that I am having a hard time with.
Any additional help will be MUCH appreciated!!
MJ
- Aristo ECU
- VVTI Coil Packs
- DS61 Igniter
- GTE VVTI Map Sensor - 89421-12111
- 500cc osidetiger injectors
- GM IAT
- Denso TT Stock Fuel Pump
The car cranks, starts for a second then stalls. It has not run for longer than maybe 2 seconds since I finished the swap and wiring.
Checked the codes, 21 and 14.
21 - The Heated O2 sensor isn't installed yet, but will be added today since I needed a bung to install it... Shouldnt' stop the car from running though.
14 - IGT signal... So I've checked continuity on this wire twice, I've verified that it is connected correctly (but will check again today).
I had my dad check my wiring against the diagrams here and he found that everything was connected correctly. We tested continuity across all the wires (new and old) and found that they are all intact.
This thing really has me bummed out since it is my DD. I'm fortunate to have my wife's car for the time being, but sharing a car is truly a first world problem (at least i can admit that) that I am having a hard time with.
Any additional help will be MUCH appreciated!!
MJ
11-09-17, 05:46 PM
#3460
code 14 will keep the car from running, that is the IGF signal from the ignitor back to the ecu. If the ecu does not see an IGF signal, it shuts down ignition because it thinks its a misfire and won't flood the engine.
The three IGT wires are from the ecu to the ignitor for the 3 coils. The single IGF wire sends a signal back everytime a coil fires off.
This is one of the wires that was there on the original ignitor, just needed to be moved over to the right spot on the ds61 ignitor.
Its usually the red yellow wire and will go to ecu pin B58, and pin 7 on the ignitor, but the wire color could vary for different years.
Make sure its plugged into the right pin on the ds61 ignitor, sometimes it can back out of the connector.
same with the ecu plug, have had several members where this pin backs out of the ecu connector.
if you removed it ever, make sure when it goes back in you "feel" or "hear" the click as you slide it in place, otherwise its not fully seated.
If the wire is good on both sides, then it could be that ignition is not occurring for some reason (hence no IGF cause IGF is a confirmation of the coil firing).
Since you said the car is starting, I would imagine you have the coil IGT wires correct, or at least one of the three.
Does it sound like its running on all 6 when it starts?
I never had a problem with this code, but other members have and its usually the IGF wire at the ecu.
Or it could be that another wire was mixed up with the IGF wire at the ignitor, especially if the colors don't match up with the first page.
make sure the ignitor ground wire was added too. are your colors matching up with the first page?
The three IGT wires are from the ecu to the ignitor for the 3 coils. The single IGF wire sends a signal back everytime a coil fires off.
This is one of the wires that was there on the original ignitor, just needed to be moved over to the right spot on the ds61 ignitor.
Its usually the red yellow wire and will go to ecu pin B58, and pin 7 on the ignitor, but the wire color could vary for different years.
Make sure its plugged into the right pin on the ds61 ignitor, sometimes it can back out of the connector.
same with the ecu plug, have had several members where this pin backs out of the ecu connector.
if you removed it ever, make sure when it goes back in you "feel" or "hear" the click as you slide it in place, otherwise its not fully seated.
If the wire is good on both sides, then it could be that ignition is not occurring for some reason (hence no IGF cause IGF is a confirmation of the coil firing).
Since you said the car is starting, I would imagine you have the coil IGT wires correct, or at least one of the three.
Does it sound like its running on all 6 when it starts?
I never had a problem with this code, but other members have and its usually the IGF wire at the ecu.
Or it could be that another wire was mixed up with the IGF wire at the ignitor, especially if the colors don't match up with the first page.
make sure the ignitor ground wire was added too. are your colors matching up with the first page?
Last edited by Ali SC3; 11-09-17 at 05:50 PM.
11-09-17, 06:25 PM
#3461
I’m sorry, it was the IGF wire that I checked. And you are correct, it is yellow and red with silver dots on it.
As a last ditch effort, I verified that it (IGF wire) was in the ECU connector again this evening and it finally started. There was a LOT of black smoke and it surged like crazy. The black smoke died out after a while, which I’m thinking was unburnt fuel.
I couldn’t get it to idle correctly.
A couple videos that i took of it:
As a last ditch effort, I verified that it (IGF wire) was in the ECU connector again this evening and it finally started. There was a LOT of black smoke and it surged like crazy. The black smoke died out after a while, which I’m thinking was unburnt fuel.
I couldn’t get it to idle correctly.
A couple videos that i took of it:
Last edited by mrmj2u; 11-09-17 at 09:12 PM.
11-09-17, 10:24 PM
#3462
Where is your map sensor connected to?
Make sure you got the coil order right on the head. Has to match diagram.
last thing verify the timing, your tps could need adjustment.. it’s on page 1 it needs to be in the right spot to idle well.
You can tell if it is by doing the timing cause you should hear the change when you do the jumper, if not then tps is off. Timing will also play a big part if it’s off.
Make sure you got the coil order right on the head. Has to match diagram.
last thing verify the timing, your tps could need adjustment.. it’s on page 1 it needs to be in the right spot to idle well.
You can tell if it is by doing the timing cause you should hear the change when you do the jumper, if not then tps is off. Timing will also play a big part if it’s off.
11-10-17, 05:59 AM
#3463
Where is your map sensor connected to?
Make sure you got the coil order right on the head. Has to match diagram.
last thing verify the timing, your tps could need adjustment.. it’s on page 1 it needs to be in the right spot to idle well.
You can tell if it is by doing the timing cause you should hear the change when you do the jumper, if not then tps is off. Timing will also play a big part if it’s off.
Make sure you got the coil order right on the head. Has to match diagram.
last thing verify the timing, your tps could need adjustment.. it’s on page 1 it needs to be in the right spot to idle well.
You can tell if it is by doing the timing cause you should hear the change when you do the jumper, if not then tps is off. Timing will also play a big part if it’s off.
I’ll recheck the coil/plug order.
Also, I’m almost certain it has to do with the timing. I’ll report back, I jumpered the pins last night and got nothing.
Last edited by mrmj2u; 11-10-17 at 06:18 AM.
