2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod - Page 226 - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion

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2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod

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Old 03-31-17, 11:30 AM
  #3376  
Ali SC3
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That's good you got that one sorted, those fuel relays can be problematic.
When electronic components are starting to fail they will usually still work somewhat when cold but as soon as they warm up they will exhibit failure symptoms, eventually they will fail entirely.
Common with relays and ecu's, and anything with old capacitors.
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Old 03-31-17, 05:14 PM
  #3377  
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Well , if you are installing a rear bumper to match your Front Bumper...... better .

I hate to clutter your thread but I can't help but post this beauty ....remembered RamboGX when I saw it . I miss my lifted truck which I sold and now wondering .....why don't I put a 2jzGTE on a truck ? My neighbor is selling his messed up 2006 4door Tundra for $500 but body is in pretty good shape.

Promise this will be my last off topic post here .... sorry my bad


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Old 03-31-17, 10:42 PM
  #3378  
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Please post up whatever you feel like, I check in on this thread more often than the others.

Wow though, that tundra is ridiculously nice, I would love to have something like that.
I was actually looking for one of the first gen quad cabs before I got the GX just worked out that way but I still plan to get one at some point.

A 2jzgte should go in there without any issues, I would think like most truck swaps electric fans are needed.
Not sure what mounts would work but for $500 its probably worth some experimenting as a fun toy.
I was planning to use a r150f off a later taco and make it manual, they had a 5 speed tundra w/v6 so you can get all the pedals and manual swap parts for a tundra.

It should be pretty easy for you, its like all the other swaps except some extra stuff hanging off the back of the transmission

Last edited by Ali SC3; 03-31-17 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 04-13-17, 06:45 AM
  #3379  
joe diego
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Need a little help solving code 24. When I search "code 24" or "24" on this thread nothing comes up. I know it has something to do with IAT. Im using an AEM IAT for now but it's not screwed into a bung as of yet. My car stalls.
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Old 04-13-17, 09:11 AM
  #3380  
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make sure you got the right wires for the IAT. then check the resistance across it to make sure its not shorted or open circuit.
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Old 04-13-17, 10:17 AM
  #3381  
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3 View Post
make sure you got the right wires for the IAT. then check the resistance across it to make sure its not shorted or open circuit.
Ok, I'm going to do this.
Does it matter which wire goes into the IAT or just plug the two wires into the IAT?

edit.. Now i have code 12. Thinking I may have to change out the distributor too.

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Old 04-13-17, 12:24 PM
  #3382  
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polarity does not matter on the IAT so just plug them in however.

did you check the timing ever? its possible the timing is just way off to get a code 12, or I have even heard of the coolant temp sensor doing it.
seems kind of random for it to just suddenly go bad if it was working before you started on the stock ecu.
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Old 04-13-17, 04:39 PM
  #3383  
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3 View Post
polarity does not matter on the IAT so just plug them in however.

did you check the timing ever? its possible the timing is just way off to get a code 12, or I have even heard of the coolant temp sensor doing it.
seems kind of random for it to just suddenly go bad if it was working before you started on the stock ecu.
timing was checked and I set it 10 degrees. Car ran fine then stalled... unable to start once stalled. Waited two hours then started but sputtered and struggled. Immediate checked for codes and code12 showed up.

edit: Installed a new distributor and so far so good. Code 12 gone but who knows.

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Old 04-14-17, 02:02 PM
  #3384  
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maybe the sensitivity on the original was a little off, can happen if magnets for the sensors get way to hot (extreme heat weakens the magnets) or the gaps are too far apart.
The 2jzge dizzy the gaps are not adjustable so either its going to work or it won't. I had to change one out with an aem once so it does happen.

run a dizzy cap if you are using the coilpacks to help keep the magnets safe from turbo heat in the future.
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Old 04-17-17, 02:38 PM
  #3385  
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Gerrb, check this one out.

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Old 04-18-17, 08:24 AM
  #3386  
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3 View Post

please dont tell me you bought the vette for the future plans of 2jzing It or that's crossed your mind many times ...
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Old 04-18-17, 10:56 AM
  #3387  
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Not why I bought it... but it sure has crossed my mind a few times
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Old 04-22-17, 06:00 PM
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New issue...

Now car won't start. When I put the jumper in the diagnostic port in the engine bay there was no CEL, so I thought. As I looked even closer there was a CEL but it was very dim, so dim I couldn't decipher the codes. So I put the jumper in the diagnostic port under the dash and the check engine light was working properly. I now have codes 12 and 14. Before I break out the multimeter anyone experience this?
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Old 04-24-17, 04:42 PM
  #3389  
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code 12 is for the distributor no crank signal, and code 14 is for the ignitor no return signal (igf) to ecu. check your fuses and relays. make sure you are getting power at the ignitor.
you said you changed the distributor right? so I would think if 12 came back it was probably something else.

the mod really isn't that involved you don't have to touch any distributor wiring, so not sure why you are having those issues.
most people have a map sensor code or they wired the ignitor wrong or something like that. every once in a while there is a bad ecu also.
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Old 05-10-17, 05:21 PM
  #3390  
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Is there any oether way then jumping the resistor on the back of the cluster to have the tach work? I jumper r73 in the back tach still don't work
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