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My injectors seem to be fine on the obd2 lower runner, they are just the is300 style injector that fits the vvti 2jzge lower.

Also I don't think you can just delete that air assist hose on the obd2, if you cap both ends it brings the idle way down. In my case from around 850 to 500, it wasn't to happy so I put the hose back on. I wonder how the different iacv's effect the mod, any way to confirm the obd1 IACV fits?

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

This my 95 Cali spec engine bay. I guess I have the OBD 2 style lower runner.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

We are doing the TT ECU mod and adding a MAPECU3 as well. Would the MAPECU only handle fuel and the TT ECU handle everything else? What would the distribution of duty be?

(I am obviously not doing this myself)

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Anthony, iirc, the map ecu 3 is very much like the emanage ultimate in capability. It basically comes down to how it's wired in if I remember right. With the emu, I was able to intercept all ignition and fueling duties, alter those completely separate from the ecu. Basically the ecu expects to see certain things and does things based on what it sees. So the ecu sees what it wants, and then the engine does what you want. Best of both worlds nearly because you have the best base map possible from toyota. With my emanage, I dropped in 1000cc injectors, then scaled the map back to make it run perfect in 10 minutes after the swap. Then later I drove around the grocery store parking lot until it sputtered, filled up with e85, then altered scale again to have a great running car in minutes. 30 minutes of driving later I had a car that made about 60whp better than it did earlier. If toyota didn't do their job so well it wouldn't be possible to do this.

Basically, if you trust where your car is at, then leave it in their hands. Youll get more misinformation here than good. Additionally, don't confine your research about that system to lexus/toyota only, it pretty much works the same on every app. I learned more about the emanage on 3000gt forums than I ever did through any toyota forums

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Helpful Stuff. Thank you.
I'm pretty psyched to use this thing. Sounds like you had a good, easy time with this type of unit.
I installed the Wifi kit and got the Windows only software working on a Mac Air with Parallels today so I won't have to buy a PC. I'm going to have a tuner, tune it but I feel pretty comfortable tweaking afterwards with some study .....
Thanks Again VR!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah you may need to use the obd1 iacv or throttle body then to rectify that. my car will want to idle at 650 stock, but I use the idle screw to bump it up and then turn back the tps so its more like 800-900 most of the time. But if its working then its working I would just use IS300 injectors then and keep it, probably have a better idle that way too.

yeah thats an "obd2" style runner, you can get these in 440 or 550 sizes in aftermarket is300 style injectors.

the map ecu simply replaces the map or maf sensor. it doesn't actually take over anything, it feeds the stock ecu values instead of the stock map sensor doing it so it adjusts for fueling that way.

I think you are a little misinformed on the map ecu, the map ecu does not have its own fuel injector drivers like the emanage ultimate with the fuel harness or aem fic with the fuel harness would have, the map ecu is purely a map replacement or maf elimination device. for the features you are describing I would use the aem fic or an emanage ultimate. the fic has all those features of intercepting the stock injectors and driving them itself like the emanage ultimate, and also stuff like o2 simulation to fool secondary o2's. tough to setup and wire but a good ecu. As far as I know the map ecu 1-3 does not do that, its most important output is a map or maf sensor output to the stock ecu, which is why with the map ecu its important to use a gte ecu rather than a ge ecu since it cannot take full control over fuel.

d1aristo

Hi guys,
Im new here and have been very intently studying the na-t TT Ecu mod, and finally been convinced and have decided to take this route.
My car is a 91 JDM Aristo (ecu is map based already) that i turboed a while back and have finally got sick of the GE ecu.
I have put in a JDM supra GTE ECU for my swap. Running 440cc injectors
And here is where my problems begin.
I initially was gonna run stock dizzy with DS62 igniter (as per instuctions in this forum). I wired it up double checking and taking great care. Went to start... Nothing. I got fuel for sure, no spark at all.
Swapped back to NA ignitor and it starts straight away on the GTE ecu and dizzy and revs well etc but throws code 14 (IGF sig).
So i decided i need go for the VVTI coil swap and again try the DS62 igniter, wire it up following the diagrams and triple checking everything as i go. Go to start and i am getting occasional splutter and what seems like only 2 cylinders trying to fire. But over all no spark with the DS62 ONCE AGAIN!! Does my ECU not like the VVTI igniter or something..
I tried swapping the igniter with a mates to ensure mine wasnt a dud, but same result. Code 14 once again.. Double checked IGF and IGT wires are correct, checked the coils are all wired to the igniter correctly. Only thing i can think of now is i may have wired the plugs on the coils backwards as i have no idea what side was B+ and signal. I just wired the same way as the stock coil is wired..
PLEASE HELP ME OUT HERE GUYS!!!
I am seriously scratching my head, and am banging my head on the damn wall. I want to drive my car. What could i have not checked or done right...

ANY HELP WILL BE HIGHLY APPRECIATED.. I am getting seriously depressed over this..

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

I don't think it matters which way the coils are wired but I studied a lot of pictures and diagrams to make sure I had it wired the way the factory would have. I don't recall which was which however and the car isn't here to go look. Have you tested the coils to make sure they're good? you mentioned swapping with a friend, maybe try swapping coils too and see what happens.

I know I had an issue when I did my car that I wasn't paying close enough attention and didn't realize the coils don't sit 1-2-3 or 3-2-1, they're out of order. Maybe throw some lights on the coil plugs and see if they all light up? at least you'll know you're getting power to the coils that way. Just have to start testing individual pieces of the ignition system and crossing things off the list.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Another great thing about MAPECU, is their forums are very active and the moderators / developers of MAPECU are actively involved there. They do their best to figure out / troubleshoot your setup. This to me goes a long way, the AEM Support was terrible, their boards were dead and if it wasn't for Ali and a few people on this forum and supraforums I would of been dead in water setting up the AEM V2 I originally had in the car.

I came from a DSM platform originally, loved my 1997 TSI AWD. DSMLink / ECMtuning was amazing, top notch people and the forum was so helpful I would buy another DSM to mod purely based on the level of support you get with that platform. I wish their was a factory EPROM setup like dsmlink available for the GTE ecu.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

it should have worked with the stock distibutor and the ds62, that means you got some wiring wrong, so when you installed the coilpacks, you have the same problem. I would check the ignitor wires, make sure you didn't confuse the tachometer wire for a ground wire. the original ignitor does not have a ground wire, you must add a new ground for the new ignitor.
the coils shouldn't matter which side has the +B and the signal but I do wire them like they were factory.

I am assuming when you tried it with the stock dizzy you did add the extra 5 pins on the ecu and connect them to the existing IGT wire.
I am assuming when you went coilpacks you added the extra pins above but then ran 2 new wires from the ecu to the ignitor for the extra coils.

if so, that is odd the ecu even runs with the old ignitor, normally when you get an IGF code it shuts off fuel injection.
I would check that ground wire and tach wire are not mixed up, a few people have done that before, I am guessing since you have an aristo the wire colors were not a direct match to the pictures.

d1aristo

Thanks for the reply guys. Yes you are correct with how I wired it up etc. I put in 5 extra pins for the IGT then once I decided to run coils ran two extra wires for the 2 extra signals from the igniter. As you said.

Now im certain I didnt mix the ground and tach up and I had to make up the ground wire. So I didn't mess it up.

But yes a aristo has weird colored wiring that I had to sort out. So that is where I could have gone wrong.. I followed the IGF and IGT back to ecu and checked color matched at both sides. So I couldn't have messed those up. It stumped me to that it ran on the 5 pin igniter. Thats the only luck ive had with it running on the TT ECU..

There is 12v at all the coils. I have no idea what the voltages should be in the other pins.. but number 2 had power in the signal wire where as the rest didn't. So that might be the problem there?? Im sick of this car now

d1aristo

FYI
It does appear to be having very intermittent spark when cranking. This is more than likely because the code 14 is up im guessing..
I just checked all the wiring once again and made myself go abit more insane, then went to start and it nearly fired up then quickly died. It only did this once.. then cranking once again it just does the usual splutter and backfire ive been getting all alone.
I must be close but not close enough.

Should i run a hard wire from the igniter to the ecu for my IGF seeing as thats what the ECU is crying about and see if that fixes the issue. And hard wire the signal wires to my coils (even though i just made a new loom up) But why will it run on my old igniter yet not on the DS62 is beyond me...

What i am stumbling on is the fact that if i didnt have a IGF signal doesnt it ECU cut fuel?? But in my case it doesnt cut fuel. It just fouls the plugs right up. Ive had them out to clean them afew times. And the smell of raw fuel out the exhaust... So im lost..

Desperately hoping one of you guys here with you NA-T knowledge can get me running!!

d1aristo

Another update....
I ran hard wire from igf on igniter to igf pin on ecu. Now I no longer have code 14. And I still got no go. Its firing from what I can tell on cyl 3 and definitely cyl 4. I can tell these two because the header pipes are warm after it fires abit. Does this mean either my IGT wires are bad or coils signal wiring is bad???

Im terribly sorry about all the posts. I just want to have my car again after months of this.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

You've proven you have at least one bad wire since running a new line for the IGF resolved that issue. It's entirely possible you have others. Have you tested for continuity across all the wires between ECU and ignitor and or coils? If you haven't already, check the resistance of all wires involved. Harness may be abraded somewhere or even cut causing high resistance, killing the voltage / signal. Cylinders 3 & 4 run off the same coil pack as I recall so that makes sense if that's the only one firing for those two cylinders to work. Also try moving that coil pack to another cylinder as an easy test of your coils.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I would double check the IGF and IGT are not mixed up again and the coil wires inputs and outputs at the ignitor, I am pretty sure you have a mixed up wire still. If you had to run a new wire for IGF and it changed then the wire you had in IGF was probably not IGF. sometimes they even use a wierd color for hte power wire sometimes its white with a black stripe. I would suggest finding the actual manual for your chassis and look up your wire colors and then you will know. you can also use a multimeter at both ends and check wire continuity from the pin at the ecu to the pin on the ignitor.

also make sure you put the coils in the order shown in the diagram, because it makes a difference. its not just a 1-2-3 setup, if you look at the picture coil 2 is closest to radiator and sits on plug 2 (and plug wire runs to plug 5), coil 3 is in the middle on plug 4 (and plug wire runs to 3), and coil 1 is near the firewall on plug 6 (and plug wire runs to plug 1). this matches the wiring shown for the igniter in the diagram.

also note how the coils go on the new ignitor the pins are all over the place not really in order, like coil 1 is on one side of the connector and coils 2 and 3 are on the opposite side. I think the reason why its not shutting off it because you are getting some signal on the ecu's IGF's pin due to having mixed wires at the ignitor but its the wrong signal so the ecu is not happy, I think if you disconnected it completely it should shut off but its not like a 100% sort of thing with these older ecu's, if its getting a signal some portion of the time or for enough cylinders then it will keep running.

Connecting IGF directly would make the ecu see IGF, but if you had a mixed wire and you didn't fix the other wrong wire, you wouldn't have the right ignition happening, and when there is a misfire it also throws IGF generally speaking. so while you have ensured IGF is correct, I am not sure your IGT and power wires are correct.

with the key on engine off, you should see 12V on ones side of the coilpack connector, and no voltage on the other side. if you are seeing 12V on both sides of the coilpack connector something is very wrong and could be the source of your problems now that IGF is hardwired. check your harness that you made that the signal wire is not making contact with the power wire which is what that sounds like its doing. hopefully the igniter can survive a short like that, but have a backup just in case.