2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
04-23-14, 07:35 PM
#1653
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Could a clogged or bad pcv valve cause my issue? I sort of cleaned this about a week ago, and it's got gunk and oil on it again.
*edit* not sure why there is gunk on it. I removed it and the check valve in it moves freely.
*edit* not sure why there is gunk on it. I removed it and the check valve in it moves freely.
Last edited by BuffNStuff; 04-23-14 at 08:39 PM.
04-23-14, 08:04 PM
#1654
I've seen people run breather filters on those so it DEFINITELY should not be clogged.
edit: It could also be the source of that insane vacuum you're reading.
double edit: Maybe not. But it does need to be unclogged to prevent the usual symptoms of a failed pcv valve.
edit: It could also be the source of that insane vacuum you're reading.
double edit: Maybe not. But it does need to be unclogged to prevent the usual symptoms of a failed pcv valve.
Last edited by ashtray; 04-23-14 at 08:10 PM.
04-24-14, 07:27 AM
#1655
Looks like that hose is loose and lets the oil seep out, that could be a vacuum leak or boost leak right there. I would replace the hose and put some clamps on it. The old hose gets hard over time and then tends to not seal again.
Remember the PCV takes in metered air via the passenger side valve cover that goes through the pcv and into the intake. The valve cover gaskets have to have a good seal, the pcv grommet has to seal, and the pcv hose can't leak or you get a small air leak and boost leak.
The PCV itself is good if you can blow through it one direction and can't the other way.
just screw the idle screw in till it goes from 300-600 and leave it there. it should be like a half turn or less its pretty sensitive for a idle screw. Hopefully the new stuff fixes it, didn't think odb2 would give so much trouble.
Remember the PCV takes in metered air via the passenger side valve cover that goes through the pcv and into the intake. The valve cover gaskets have to have a good seal, the pcv grommet has to seal, and the pcv hose can't leak or you get a small air leak and boost leak.
The PCV itself is good if you can blow through it one direction and can't the other way.
just screw the idle screw in till it goes from 300-600 and leave it there. it should be like a half turn or less its pretty sensitive for a idle screw. Hopefully the new stuff fixes it, didn't think odb2 would give so much trouble.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 04-24-14 at 07:30 AM.
04-24-14, 09:34 AM
#1657
I have run the stock n/a ecu with a breather on the passenger side even letting in a bunch of unmetered air and yeah the afr was off a little but the car drove and boosted fine about 75% of the time. other times misfires and then I reset the ecu and back to normal. that n/a ecu was not fun at all.
I bet whats happening is when you get to 5 psi all these things like the injectors and pcv hoses that are barely sealing start to leak off boost and the oil gets sprayed back on the PCV. remember it cannot go back through the PCV cause of the check valve so that oil will just sit there for a second till you have vacuum again, but if the hose doesn't seal it will just spray out. I would check the injector areas as well for oil spray, more likey it would be fuel spray but that either catches on fire or evaporates so you won't spot it much after it happens.
I hope by this time you have invested in a fire extinguisher, and I am not even joking in the slightest sense.
Get a good sized one, the really small ones may not even tickle a fuel fire.
Every time you mess with fuel injectors or those things and you haven't done it yourself or even if you did and are fully confident you can make a mistake that could cost you the entire car. I never mess around with injectors. new seals properly lubricated all tighetened down and pressure tested and double check and triple check. I have seen several cars go up in flames for a badly installed FPR or injectors. The way your injectors are installed I would be super carefull who knows how they made it seal in there with the wrong o-rings.
So be careful and carry a fire extinguisher in the car, it may just save you one day.
If you are leaking enough boost off for the boost gauge to not get past 5 psi then something is def wrong. you may need to do a boost leak down test if you can't figure it out. when the motor looses some of that boost it still gets all the fuel and hits a rich mixture it cannot boost past, either that or if it can still ignite the mix you would have to be leaking off all that extra boost which means an even worse boost leak.
hopefully that odb1 intake takes alot out of the stuff out of the equation, but please use new hoses this time around on anything that looks old or suspect, especially the larger ones ikie that which have that small spring clip holding it on. actual hose clamps that you can tighten down on the ones you replace will help them last longer without problems. do not overtigteh the clamp on the PCV though, it is a plastic type PCV that can crack. I have used a TT PCV before also its the same thing but metal and straight up instead of a 90 degree bend. I went back to the GE plastic one for cleanliness nothing changed at all.
I bet whats happening is when you get to 5 psi all these things like the injectors and pcv hoses that are barely sealing start to leak off boost and the oil gets sprayed back on the PCV. remember it cannot go back through the PCV cause of the check valve so that oil will just sit there for a second till you have vacuum again, but if the hose doesn't seal it will just spray out. I would check the injector areas as well for oil spray, more likey it would be fuel spray but that either catches on fire or evaporates so you won't spot it much after it happens.
I hope by this time you have invested in a fire extinguisher, and I am not even joking in the slightest sense.
Get a good sized one, the really small ones may not even tickle a fuel fire.
Every time you mess with fuel injectors or those things and you haven't done it yourself or even if you did and are fully confident you can make a mistake that could cost you the entire car. I never mess around with injectors. new seals properly lubricated all tighetened down and pressure tested and double check and triple check. I have seen several cars go up in flames for a badly installed FPR or injectors. The way your injectors are installed I would be super carefull who knows how they made it seal in there with the wrong o-rings.
So be careful and carry a fire extinguisher in the car, it may just save you one day.
If you are leaking enough boost off for the boost gauge to not get past 5 psi then something is def wrong. you may need to do a boost leak down test if you can't figure it out. when the motor looses some of that boost it still gets all the fuel and hits a rich mixture it cannot boost past, either that or if it can still ignite the mix you would have to be leaking off all that extra boost which means an even worse boost leak.
hopefully that odb1 intake takes alot out of the stuff out of the equation, but please use new hoses this time around on anything that looks old or suspect, especially the larger ones ikie that which have that small spring clip holding it on. actual hose clamps that you can tighten down on the ones you replace will help them last longer without problems. do not overtigteh the clamp on the PCV though, it is a plastic type PCV that can crack. I have used a TT PCV before also its the same thing but metal and straight up instead of a 90 degree bend. I went back to the GE plastic one for cleanliness nothing changed at all.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 04-24-14 at 09:46 AM.
04-24-14, 06:11 PM
#1658
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Oh yea. Ever since you mentioned the injector issue, I've had my household extinguisher with me when I'm working on it, along with the garden hose turned on and ready.
Just a little update:
For the peace of mind, I went down to the parts store and picked up new vacuum hose and a bunch of different sized worm drive hose clamps. Any hose that felt remotely stiff or dry, I replaced it. Any hose or line that slipped off its seat remotely easy, I put a worm drive on there. I started it up, and the idle was immediately low from yesterday, so put the car in reverse, and let it warm up all the way, I then put it in park with all accessories off and adjusted the idle to 1000rpm. The revs started to bounce so I adjusted the tps(eye balled it, aka: not how you're supposed to do it) until the revs stopped bouncing. I let it idle for a little bit and then checked the A/F. Perfect. Between 14.5-15.5. I turn the AC on and it goes really rich for about 5 Seconds and then returns to normal. Put it in drive, same thing. Back to park with all accessories off, idle comes up to 1000rpm like I set it to, and perfect A/F. Looks like there was a leak somewhere. So let this be a lesson to everyone, the carb spray and soapy water does not always work. I replaced most of my lines and bought enough hose clamps to do this for $20 and it took 45 mins. Might as well just replace them if you suspect a leak.
So it looks like I am on the right track now. The ONLY thing I notice now, is that if I rev it in neutral, the revs drop all the way back down to zero and it almost dies. It's like the ecu isn't catching the falling rpms until the very last second. Also when I rev in park, it takes about 10 to 15 seconds for the ecu to get the AF ratio back to normal. Seems just, kinda slow.
*edit* correction, it is only good while warm. If the engine is cold, it is still lean and for some reason the rpms are lower until warmed up. Also, between the two times that I started my car today, my temp gauge seems to have stopped working. Says it's all the way cold all the time. My scanner still reports the temp.
I AM SO FED UP WITH THIS.
Just a little update:
For the peace of mind, I went down to the parts store and picked up new vacuum hose and a bunch of different sized worm drive hose clamps. Any hose that felt remotely stiff or dry, I replaced it. Any hose or line that slipped off its seat remotely easy, I put a worm drive on there. I started it up, and the idle was immediately low from yesterday, so put the car in reverse, and let it warm up all the way, I then put it in park with all accessories off and adjusted the idle to 1000rpm. The revs started to bounce so I adjusted the tps(eye balled it, aka: not how you're supposed to do it) until the revs stopped bouncing. I let it idle for a little bit and then checked the A/F. Perfect. Between 14.5-15.5. I turn the AC on and it goes really rich for about 5 Seconds and then returns to normal. Put it in drive, same thing. Back to park with all accessories off, idle comes up to 1000rpm like I set it to, and perfect A/F. Looks like there was a leak somewhere. So let this be a lesson to everyone, the carb spray and soapy water does not always work. I replaced most of my lines and bought enough hose clamps to do this for $20 and it took 45 mins. Might as well just replace them if you suspect a leak.
So it looks like I am on the right track now. The ONLY thing I notice now, is that if I rev it in neutral, the revs drop all the way back down to zero and it almost dies. It's like the ecu isn't catching the falling rpms until the very last second. Also when I rev in park, it takes about 10 to 15 seconds for the ecu to get the AF ratio back to normal. Seems just, kinda slow.
*edit* correction, it is only good while warm. If the engine is cold, it is still lean and for some reason the rpms are lower until warmed up. Also, between the two times that I started my car today, my temp gauge seems to have stopped working. Says it's all the way cold all the time. My scanner still reports the temp.
I AM SO FED UP WITH THIS.
Last edited by BuffNStuff; 04-24-14 at 07:10 PM.
04-24-14, 06:34 PM
#1659
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Also my timing is now hovering between 14 and 16* so that seems like that is good to go now too.
I wish you could just take the lower manifold runner off without removing the upper
Can anyone chime in as to what size bolts and tap they used for the oil return line flange?
I noticed my return line is leaking a little bit so I am switching to using this -10an flange style.
I wish you could just take the lower manifold runner off without removing the upper
Can anyone chime in as to what size bolts and tap they used for the oil return line flange?
I noticed my return line is leaking a little bit so I am switching to using this -10an flange style.
Last edited by BuffNStuff; 04-24-14 at 06:38 PM.
04-25-14, 08:26 AM
#1660
It seems like you are on the right track, I always eyeball the tps myself it rarely ends up being the same place twice I think the book is full of it, and depending on where your idle screw is set it needs playing with also.
The afr good and the bouncing around being stopped is great, hopefully that gets rid of most of the small leaks.
I had seen where people just capped off the air assist system on the IS forums, but they never said what type of injectors they were using. It is a bit of a pain to take all that off but at least the bolts have come off recently so it shouldn't be too bad. take pictures of the vac lines before you start pulling stuff when you do it.
14-16 is what the timing should be at a warm idle, I dunno what that 22 stuff was before. My guess is that you were on the wrong adjustment on the tps, to one side it does whacky things, turn it to the other side it will run right but want to idle low, then move it a little towards the middle without crossing that major changing point and thats usually where I like how it revs the best. cross that point it will likely do the idle hunting stuff again, its really one of those things you just play with.
oil return flange the 2 side bolts you want to tap for a M8 bolt, and then drill out the center large enough.
I used to have leaks on my flange at the gasket so eventually I just tapped the center hole for like a 3/8 npt fitting and run the hose right into that now. I know its a little small but I have a -3 line feeding my turbo and a -8 return with zero issues now so I have left it like that.
Lce engineering makes a return flange for the other toyota motors like the 22rte except they do it with an O-ring on the backside which seals much better than a paper gasket, and I think it will fit on the 2jz I can go out and check later I have on sitting around I think when I held it up it looked perfect cause toyota never changes anything.
The afr good and the bouncing around being stopped is great, hopefully that gets rid of most of the small leaks.
I had seen where people just capped off the air assist system on the IS forums, but they never said what type of injectors they were using. It is a bit of a pain to take all that off but at least the bolts have come off recently so it shouldn't be too bad. take pictures of the vac lines before you start pulling stuff when you do it.
14-16 is what the timing should be at a warm idle, I dunno what that 22 stuff was before. My guess is that you were on the wrong adjustment on the tps, to one side it does whacky things, turn it to the other side it will run right but want to idle low, then move it a little towards the middle without crossing that major changing point and thats usually where I like how it revs the best. cross that point it will likely do the idle hunting stuff again, its really one of those things you just play with.
oil return flange the 2 side bolts you want to tap for a M8 bolt, and then drill out the center large enough.
I used to have leaks on my flange at the gasket so eventually I just tapped the center hole for like a 3/8 npt fitting and run the hose right into that now. I know its a little small but I have a -3 line feeding my turbo and a -8 return with zero issues now so I have left it like that.
Lce engineering makes a return flange for the other toyota motors like the 22rte except they do it with an O-ring on the backside which seals much better than a paper gasket, and I think it will fit on the 2jz I can go out and check later I have on sitting around I think when I held it up it looked perfect cause toyota never changes anything.
04-25-14, 04:39 PM
#1661
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tt ecu mod
hello again, got my 02 and my AIT working. but still had same problem???? upon futher research I am pretty sure ive blown my head gasket. I was suppose to have a 12 psi spring in waste gate. I did not have a boost gage on at first. It ran like a raped ape tho. now it is still hitting on six but will only make about 8 psi and doesn't run anything like it did. plus im loosing quit a bit of water with none on ground. none in crank case or oil. have not done compression test but im sure that is what it is. I am going to put a tt head gasket and head studs. do I have to have a gasket from Toyota or is after market ok? im going to run min. boost, maybe 12 to 14 psi. I know I can run more with tt headgasket. summit has studs for about 175 AND TT GASKET for about 50. but I don't want to have to do ti over, so what gasket do I need? so I took out all my plugs and did a compression test. plugs looked a little rich but no sign of water on them. great compression, 160 all the way across. but losing water?? I was looking at this thread about boost leaks. I never even thought about all those possible leak spots. will check/fix all those and do a presser check on cooling system then go from there rich plugs could be from extra fuel to support boost that is leaking off. ill report back what I find.
Last edited by p00rbob; 04-26-14 at 11:35 PM. Reason: checked more things on car
04-27-14, 04:28 PM
#1662
did you have part of the exhaust off at first? sometimes without the whole exhaust on it will make higher boost than with the exhaust and cats on etc..
blown headgasket, what does the oil look like? coolant have have any oil in it? 160 psi all across sounds fine.
maybe you blew a coupler or something simple, that can throw it off. also I would always use a boost gauge but with the stock ecu there is boost cut at 14 psi so you should be alright maybe.
Yeah you will want to run a TT gasket, and arp head studs is preferred. that will let you run more boost. you can keep the stock compression if you are happy with the 8-10 psi or so but if you want more especially on the gas over in Cali you should do the TT gasket and it will be safer in the long run in case you overboost again.
did you burp the cooling system? maybe it looks like you are loosing water and its going in the heater core.
blown headgasket, what does the oil look like? coolant have have any oil in it? 160 psi all across sounds fine.
maybe you blew a coupler or something simple, that can throw it off. also I would always use a boost gauge but with the stock ecu there is boost cut at 14 psi so you should be alright maybe.
Yeah you will want to run a TT gasket, and arp head studs is preferred. that will let you run more boost. you can keep the stock compression if you are happy with the 8-10 psi or so but if you want more especially on the gas over in Cali you should do the TT gasket and it will be safer in the long run in case you overboost again.
did you burp the cooling system? maybe it looks like you are loosing water and its going in the heater core.
04-28-14, 10:13 PM
#1663
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After searching around on supra forums, it seems people have had some issues similar so what I am experiencing whenever they reset the ecu. I wonder if just driving around for 50 or so miles will let the ecu learn, and therefore correct my lean cold idle and poor in - boost performance. One guy said he had backfiring, hesitation, and it would fall on its face after he reset the ecu, and after 85 miles of driving the ecu finally learned and corrected all the issues, and it performed flawlessly after that 85 miles.
04-29-14, 10:23 AM
#1664
sounds about right but I wouldn't drive 85 miles without changing those injectors or the lower runner.
Maybe one of use can get a hold of a cheap IS300 stock injector and test it on our 96-97 lower runner.
I have an open set of 96 runners just sitting here with 96 injectors and I also have an odb1 injector but no IS300 injector to try =(
I think once you do that and drive it enough it should learn. maybe back off the timing to like 8 degrees with the jumper in on the crank if you have been dialing it in at 10 degrees with the jumper in.
Maybe one of use can get a hold of a cheap IS300 stock injector and test it on our 96-97 lower runner.
I have an open set of 96 runners just sitting here with 96 injectors and I also have an odb1 injector but no IS300 injector to try =(
I think once you do that and drive it enough it should learn. maybe back off the timing to like 8 degrees with the jumper in on the crank if you have been dialing it in at 10 degrees with the jumper in.
04-29-14, 08:49 PM
#1665
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If anyone wants to send me a dead is300 injector, I'll take a look and see if it will fit in my obd2 runner.
Yea I am just waiting for a member on here to ship out the manifold I bought off him last tuesday. Thought I would get it this week but that's not gonna happen now. Playing the waiting game.
Yea I am just waiting for a member on here to ship out the manifold I bought off him last tuesday. Thought I would get it this week but that's not gonna happen now. Playing the waiting game.