serious problem!!!
late update: i want to Autozone and i was out of luck because..
1. i didn't have a check engine light
2. my car is a OBDI (they only do OBDII) 1996^
3. i ran in to a mechanic that told me how to really reboot the computer. (didn't work)
.....
so after doing serious homework i need to check if my SIC sensor is working because it may cause stalling on idle which is whats going on. and if needed to be replace do that and also have my ASC certified mechanic run a check on it.
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
1. i didn't have a check engine light
2. my car is a OBDI (they only do OBDII) 1996^
3. i ran in to a mechanic that told me how to really reboot the computer. (didn't work)
.....
so after doing serious homework i need to check if my SIC sensor is working because it may cause stalling on idle which is whats going on. and if needed to be replace do that and also have my ASC certified mechanic run a check on it.
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
Jonny
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: PA
Lol, while i'd love to let the car punish you for playing around with it, lemme help you out a bit.
There is no such thing as an "SIC" sensor, the ones you should check are: IAC -Idle Air Control, IAT - Intake Air Temp, MAF - Mass Air Flow, and while unlikely it's the problem, ECT -Engine Coolant Temp.
As the above gentleman said, there is no such thing as ASC, so def go for the ASE tech, however ASE's are just papers, what you really need is an experienced tech who knows cars, not books which is all an ASE proves.
Lastly, someone said earlier that the car needs to go through a recalibration and he was correct, it only would have needed slight recalibration if you had not reset the ECU by letting it sit without power, but now the ECU has lost all its long term fuel trim mapping data, and lost calibration for all of its non-continuous monitors, so what you'll need to do is look up the manufacturer's required drive cycle to run all the monitors and do everything it says on the list, see if that solves your problem.
Hope any of these basic starting points help you.
There is no such thing as an "SIC" sensor, the ones you should check are: IAC -Idle Air Control, IAT - Intake Air Temp, MAF - Mass Air Flow, and while unlikely it's the problem, ECT -Engine Coolant Temp.
As the above gentleman said, there is no such thing as ASC, so def go for the ASE tech, however ASE's are just papers, what you really need is an experienced tech who knows cars, not books which is all an ASE proves.
Lastly, someone said earlier that the car needs to go through a recalibration and he was correct, it only would have needed slight recalibration if you had not reset the ECU by letting it sit without power, but now the ECU has lost all its long term fuel trim mapping data, and lost calibration for all of its non-continuous monitors, so what you'll need to do is look up the manufacturer's required drive cycle to run all the monitors and do everything it says on the list, see if that solves your problem.
Hope any of these basic starting points help you.
what no one mentioned is this, try and unplug the maf sensor and look inside the connector maybe when you plugged it back in one of the prongs in the connector got bent. 
always try the simplest things first
always try the simplest things first
Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Rhode Island
Sounds like the computer still thinks the sensor is unplugged and it's running extra rich to compensate. It would certainly explain your misfire issue as well as the bad idle and gas smell.
The steps listed above definitely sound like the next steps to take. (find out drive cycle and follow steps, check plug terminals, etc)
The steps listed above definitely sound like the next steps to take. (find out drive cycle and follow steps, check plug terminals, etc)
Sounds like the computer still thinks the sensor is unplugged and it's running extra rich to compensate. It would certainly explain your misfire issue as well as the bad idle and gas smell.
The steps listed above definitely sound like the next steps to take. (find out drive cycle and follow steps, check plug terminals, etc)
The steps listed above definitely sound like the next steps to take. (find out drive cycle and follow steps, check plug terminals, etc)
speed idle sensor it's also know as the IAC but i just went off exactly what the sensor said... and yea i wasn't paying attention... my fault
Lol, while i'd love to let the car punish you for playing around with it, lemme help you out a bit.
There is no such thing as an "SIC" sensor, the ones you should check are: IAC -Idle Air Control, IAT - Intake Air Temp, MAF - Mass Air Flow, and while unlikely it's the problem, ECT -Engine Coolant Temp.
As the above gentleman said, there is no such thing as ASC, so def go for the ASE tech, however ASE's are just papers, what you really need is an experienced tech who knows cars, not books which is all an ASE proves.
Lastly, someone said earlier that the car needs to go through a recalibration and he was correct, it only would have needed slight recalibration if you had not reset the ECU by letting it sit without power, but now the ECU has lost all its long term fuel trim mapping data, and lost calibration for all of its non-continuous monitors, so what you'll need to do is look up the manufacturer's required drive cycle to run all the monitors and do everything it says on the list, see if that solves your problem.
Hope any of these basic starting points help you.
There is no such thing as an "SIC" sensor, the ones you should check are: IAC -Idle Air Control, IAT - Intake Air Temp, MAF - Mass Air Flow, and while unlikely it's the problem, ECT -Engine Coolant Temp.
As the above gentleman said, there is no such thing as ASC, so def go for the ASE tech, however ASE's are just papers, what you really need is an experienced tech who knows cars, not books which is all an ASE proves.
Lastly, someone said earlier that the car needs to go through a recalibration and he was correct, it only would have needed slight recalibration if you had not reset the ECU by letting it sit without power, but now the ECU has lost all its long term fuel trim mapping data, and lost calibration for all of its non-continuous monitors, so what you'll need to do is look up the manufacturer's required drive cycle to run all the monitors and do everything it says on the list, see if that solves your problem.
Hope any of these basic starting points help you.
thank,
Kernst
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: PA
I didn't even bother searching around google for a drive cycle because half the crap you'll find on the internet about your car is a lie, so instead I put in a request at a local lexus dealership to have them send me the exact manufacturer required drive cycle to run the monitors, and if they send it to me i'll post it up here for you to print out.
I didn't even bother searching around google for a drive cycle because half the crap you'll find on the internet about your car is a lie, so instead I put in a request at a local lexus dealership to have them send me the exact manufacturer required drive cycle to run the monitors, and if they send it to me i'll post it up here for you to print out.
If you happened to clean the Air Flow sensor and mess around with the inside of the sensor. You might have killed the sensor if you did. These sensor are about 700+ a piece. Just something to share about. GL
Pole Position
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: Fl
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: In
After cleaning/killing my MAF with CRC my 95 sc4 wouldnt idle or run for **** so i also disconnected my MAF. Now, I get about 8mpg and tons of power, it died occasionally during idle for the first 2 weeks but now it runs alright. not perfect .....BTW I really need a MAF
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