SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

ATF change

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Old 06-04-02, 08:22 PM
  #16  
Black94RX-7TT
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Default Re: way to go, cupete!

Originally posted by PERRYinLA
This is the first mention I've heard about nylon parts wearing more rapidly- who told you that, Bill? The only way I can think would happen is if the ATF friction specs are so far off that the computer rapidly opens and closes the nylon valves, causing the well-known "shudder" effect, but if that was the case cupete would have felt that.
There's also the possibility that the nylon they use is chemically incompatible with regular fluid, and slowly breaks down over time.

Speaking of computers and friction specs, Toyota might require it because the computer is tuned for the smoothest shifts for the specific viscosity, and friction characteristics of their fluid. Chrysler purportedly did it with their computer controlled 4 speed using ATF 2+....
Old 06-05-02, 01:58 AM
  #17  
Taka
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Default Re: Re: Picky, picky..

Originally posted by SupraCoup3
it was a lexus... it doesn't need to be changed
This is what my friend told me, dont change it, it's lexus.
but after my lil research on ATF change, I got some idea. I didn't know if I need to ever change AFT. I'll go ahead to change my ATF as many of you guys have done before. and I'll post the result.

here is next question:
Should I just drain and refill? (2 liters)
or flush, drop the pan (8-9 liters) <--requires 2 cans.

If I dont need to change the filter, I might just drain plug and change the fluid.
I just realize something, if I only drain and refill 2 liter of ATF, it means 6 liters of existing fluid is mixing up with 2 liters of new ATF, right?? I'm not sure if this is good idea. can I get some comments?

Thanks

Last edited by Taka; 06-05-02 at 02:05 AM.
Old 06-05-02, 06:58 AM
  #18  
ChrisK
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Depending on how your car shifts, tranny vibrations, if the ATF fluid in the tranny is burnt, smells, you could ever do only 2-4 quarts or flash it all.

With my car, the tranny was shifting fast by noticeable, and after reading on ClubLexus about the smoothness of the shifts, I started to consider flashing it all. Unfortunately, because all Lexus dealers in Chicago area do not have the ATF flash machine I didn’t get to it for a long time. One day I decided just to change 2 quarts myself, before the dealer that I go to did it every 15k miles, after driving the car I felt a NOTICABLE IMPROVEMENT (wwest ) in the way the tranny shifts. At that point I started to call all Toyota dealerships in my area and finally I found one that was willing to flash my tranny, and it helped ALOT.

Again, my fluid wasn't even burnt, it had pinkish color to it, and it didn't smell badly, but because tranny shifts were pronounced, I decided to flash it, and IT HELPED (wwest).

Last edited by ChrisK; 06-05-02 at 06:59 AM.
Old 06-05-02, 07:25 AM
  #19  
VQT
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Bought my white SC last year, the car develop some vibrations between 35-45 mph at light throttle. I thought that the trans. is on the way out. The vibrations began to appear more and more so I decided to change 2 liters of type T-IV. THe vibration disappear. Because I am too lazy to take the oil pan out, I just drain and refill a few time since to make sure most of the old oil is out. I didn't post on the forum because I know that wwest and Lex Luthor will have a fit on how I change my oil

If you're driving an older car sportcar where it might get abuse from time to time, the car will need a lot of attention and maintenance, even a Lexus SC (its just a glorify Toyota). You need to learn to work on your car at least know how to do the basic maintenance like changing engine oil, trans. oil, flush antifreeze, change diff. oil, parkplugs, wires. I assume you guy are as poor as me. For the guys with money, disregard what I just wrote. If you need any maintenance and want to spend money, I'll be happy to do the work for you with half the price the dealer charge you. I need money to rebuild my Corvette (my other toy)
Old 06-05-02, 11:15 AM
  #20  
cupete
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I think the shop guy used the multi-purpose ATF, no vibration or anything before and after, just a smooth working trans.

BTW, how do you change the differential oil? I didn't think this was DIY item. Draining transmission oil is not more than changing the engine oil, however, $15 was pretty good for me to go ahead and change the transmission oil while I was at the shop.
Old 06-05-02, 11:29 AM
  #21  
VQT
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For diff. oil change you need to have a oil pump tool to suck the oil out at the oil level check plug. Then pump new 80-90 weight oil back in. Unless you are changing the gasket then you just put new oil in with the oil pump.
Old 06-05-02, 11:39 AM
  #22  
cupete
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Hmm,

Where the hell is the oil level check plug for the diff. oil on SC400? Sorry, I was able to find the engine oil/trans oil level check plugs only...
Old 06-06-02, 09:37 AM
  #23  
moshlub
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Default Imagination ... or not

Originally posted by wwest
Every time I wash and wax my car it seems like it drives smoother and quieter, isn't imagination wonderful?
Happens to me too.


Check your tranx fluid level and condition once in awhile, more often if you tow, but tranx fluid does NOT wear out and unlike motor oil it is specifically formulated to allow particulates, clutch wear particles, to settle into the sump.
Transmission fluid DOES wear out and it DOES get burned. How quickly depends on how you drive. I get mine changed every 15k miles due to my driving habits. 15k because I drain and add 2 quarts (not a full flush). After I get it changed, it DOES run alot smoother ... and it's not just my imagination either.

If you have the money to waste, then by all means "waste" it, but there are better places than a Toyota or Lexus service shop, ....
I disagree. I wouldn't let my car go to "waste", as transmission fluid quality plays a BIG part in your transmission's functionality. Pay for it now, or pay for it later. I choose now.

Please check your manual, as changing the transmission fluid is a routine maintenance item. As with any lubricant to any moving part, it is vital to change out the lubricant. Heck, why do people bother changing out coolant? :eek:

Last edited by moshlub; 06-06-02 at 09:49 AM.
Old 06-06-02, 09:53 AM
  #24  
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How do I change my coolant?
Old 06-06-02, 10:04 AM
  #25  
moshlub
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Originally posted by cupete
How do I change my coolant?
Hmmmm ... I haven't done it before. But I imagine there is a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator and a drain plug on the engine block. Can't tell you exactly where (maybe someone else can point it out).

Not too sure exactly on how to fill and lose the air pockets.
Old 06-06-02, 10:12 AM
  #26  
PERRYinLA
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Question You're supposed to change coolant?

Since this thread is wandering all over the place, anyway, might I chime in with the question of when does the coolant need changing?

I've had my '92 SC400 for 5 years now, have put 30K on it, and have yet the change the coolant solution (or the ATF, for that matter).

The coolant solution still looks green- not as bright as that day-glo flourescent green of new anti-freeze, but not as dark as that olive-drab corderoy green that Dartmouth freshmen wear, either.
Since I live in a warm climate, I don't really need the anti-freeze function, anyway.

So what's the test to determine that the coolant solution is shot, and should be flushed/replaced? And what are the consequences of stretching the change intervals?
Old 06-06-02, 10:26 AM
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Default Re: You're supposed to change coolant?

Originally posted by PERRYinLA
Since this thread is wandering all over the place, anyway, might I chime in with the question of when does the coolant need changing?

I've had my '92 SC400 for 5 years now, have put 30K on it, and have yet the change the coolant solution (or the ATF, for that matter).

The coolant solution still looks green- not as bright as that day-glo flourescent green of new anti-freeze, but not as dark as that olive-drab corderoy green that Dartmouth freshmen wear, either.
Since I live in a warm climate, I don't really need the anti-freeze function, anyway.

So what's the test to determine that the coolant solution is shot, and should be flushed/replaced? And what are the consequences of stretching the change intervals?
Hehehehe ... sorry I opened a can of worms.

In my maintenance record portion of the Owner's Manual Supplement, there's a spot for Replace Engine Coolant every 2 years. I don't have a repair manual. And I don't believe there is really a strict mileage requirement for the engine coolant replacement.

Consequences? It might not cool as well as it should when you need it? Actually, there are some anti-oxidant components in your coolant for the aluminum block. And this is just beside the fact that it IS an engine coolant AND anti-freeze. So warm or cold climate, it serves your engine.

And did you say green? There was a thread quite a while back (in which I was also involved) that discusses the green stuff versus the red stuff. You need the red stuff. The red stuff is made for aluminum blocks, whereas the green is for iron blocks. BTW, more importantly, you CANNOT mix the two, even if it's just a few drops. They contaminate.

Testing the coolant? You can buy a coolant testing tube from the auto parts store. It looks like a plastic cylinder that contains (i believe) 3 plastic floating *****. These ***** float depending on the properties of your coolant.
Old 06-06-02, 04:27 PM
  #28  
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The coolant tester with the little plastic ***** just checks specific gravity, which will tell you the ratio of coolant to water. It will tell you nothing about the condition of the corrosion inhibitors. If the coolant is a couple of years old, change it! Even if the spec. grav. shows it's still good to -34F, the sacrificial suspended metals will be exhausted. Be good to your all-aluminum engine! Or to your aluminum head, in the case of the 6-cylinder motor - and if it's been a few years since the coolant has been changed, have the system thoroughly flushed in the process to get rid of any solids that may shorten the life of your water pump.
Old 06-06-02, 06:56 PM
  #29  
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I changed mine at 125K miles, and it helped with the smoothness for a short time. I drive the hell outta my car, redlining it, WOT at 70 mph, and sometimes drive it w/ overdrive off and like stick ;-)

So more recently it's worn out again, and thinking of having it flushed again--with the RIGHt fluid..Toyota Type IV..not american car dexron.
Old 06-06-02, 09:50 PM
  #30  
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Default ChrisK

Hey Chris which Toyota dealership in the Chicago area flushed you entire ATF system and how much was it? Any contact names?

My SC400 has very pronounced shifts compared to my other Lexus. I want to get it changed as soon as possible. Think you could hook me up with some info?
Also where in the Chicago area are you?
Well if you ever see a Blue SC with a dent in the fender(hopefully soon to be gone) and temp. tags give me a honk!


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