Umm.... I'm guessing because he could afford it. 2jzgte 4 the win

 

I was assuming that this was the 2JZ-GTE here was a JDM rather than US spec.

In that respect, is there a general preference for the JDM 2JZ-GTE over the 1JZ-GTE? If so, what are the advantages, given the JDM 2JZ-GTE and the 1JZ-GTE are both rated for 280hp at the flywheel?

 

^^^They are both rated at 280 but the 2jz in reality produces closer to 320.

If I had more monies I would have gone 2jz too! 2jz's can produce far more torque than a 1jz ever will.

 

would you say the same for a 1.5jz set up ???

 

IMO a 1.5jz is a waste of time. It hasn't been proven that the 1jz head flows better, just speculated. Furthermore, you are putting a head designed for a high revving engine on a block designed for torque. Lets not clutter this fine gentleman's thread though. (haha did I really just call him a gentleman?!?!)

 

Even the JDM 2JZ-GTE (not US spec) produces closer to 320hp?

 

Yes japan rated most cars then at 280hp due to certain laws similar to our emissions.I say they make more power due to turbine wheel differences,no maf, and no emissions on the engines.

 

my setup is OEM best of both worlds IMO-

JDM ecu with map - no need for HKS VPC - the USDM MK4 tt has a MAF and map instead of MAP only. I dont need the usdm stuff to pass smog here, it all looks the same anyways-

I also dislike MAF /AFM style setups, and have plans to VTA with a single turbo later, so the logic was to start without an AFM to begin with.

OEM JDM ecu wiring is very similar to the 2jz-GE NA setup, was easier for me to merge my Sc300 wiring with an aristo harness than to convert everything to usdm MK4 (differnt ecu setup than JDM/UKDM MK4)

JDM JZA80 motor (with no EGR) - did not have to remove egr or convert a aristo front sump motor to supra rear sump setup

USDM twins for extra boost, usdm 550cc injectors

a usdm MK4 motor has only 1 advantage on my setup- tiny bit more agressive intake cam- ill just wait for some HKS to pile up in the garage =)


as previously mentioned, usually 1jz swaps are decisions made on availibility/cost, in my senario, it was in my favour to do 2jz. I was able to pick up an aftermarket DP for a mk4 tt locally (inexpensive and new). with 1j and 1.5, custom business would be needed.

I also have specific goals i needed to have on the parts spec- the 1jz or 1.5JZ is a consideration, but i wanted to be able to do 400 rwhp on all stock parts - stock toyota everything - 1.5 jz dosnt really have turbos that do that, 1jz cannot do it either normally.

the 1 jz is simply a smaller, older version of the 2jz. both will spin crazy high if the build has the proper part spec ($$$$) in it. 2jz is a stroker 1jz, do you want OEM stroker kit or want smaller engine?

1jz is also a bit harder for parts avail, for 2jz-gte I call my toyota parts counter and the part is there for me in a day or so.

At its current break in 7psi, its ~ 270 hp/tq @ the crank happily

if you are on a budget and handy with building hybrid motors, then 1.5JZ may be your ticket with a small/medium single.

the 1jzgte head flows worse than 2jzgte (flow bench tested), a 1.5JZ shouldnt be more efficient or power output producing than the 2jz.

1jz's are benefited from upgrading to 2jz cams, the head is not nearly as OEM aggressive as a 2j. 1.5JZ is most ideal for a guy with a 1jzgte car who has the time to swap bottom ends (or needs to)

in the end, the ultimate power output depends on the person building it and tuning it- 1, 1.5, 2 -all good choices. figure out whichever works best for you-

I originally had wanted to build a 1.5JZ, but did not have a donor 1JZ avail to base off of, I came across the MK4 motor locally and spent a good half year negotiating it. Things worked out after waiting a while and I started the build process

 

Man! sick looking turbo, great work so far!

 

What does "DP" mean?

 

DP = short for downpipe

the 2jzgte usdm and jdm versions had differnt turbos with specific downpipe bolt styles- they are not compatible, most people with JDM 2jzgte turbos are having custom downpipes made (bring car to exhaust shop, etc). I was able to buy a plug and play one, as my turbos are usdm and the SC300 stock exhaust works with it.

I know hks downpipes for JDM MK4/Aristo are availible stateside, they are harder to come by though.

the usdm oem turbo union junction is also 4" vs 3".

 

hooray for snorkus!

JZA80 snorkus and radiator and oem toyota airbox + TRD airfliter for quiet intake.

silly cone filters make waay too much noise

 

Looks stock.

 

Wanganstyl,

We've got similar setups. You are running right now however. Anyway, why did you hook up your heater hose that way? Is everything kosher with your coolant flow. The picture could just be deceiving. Based on the diagrams, I hooked the upper output of the heater VSV over to the cylinder head and the coolant bypass tube that comes straight up between the turbo direct to the firewall. Almost identical to the way the GE was piped when it was in. Do you just have reverse flow?

 

My heater setup was identical to na setup, just fitted differnt pipes to fit with the gte setup

as far as flow direction goes, I piped from back of head water port directly to the heater vsv and zip tied it permenantly open- my ac is freezing cold anyway and the valve wasn't functioning properly to begin with ( car didn't have heat before I locked it open)

regarless of flow and hvac performance there is also another issue I had in mind when I was doing that. To evacuate heat from back of cylinder head to heater core- the bane of all I-6 is equal cooling in cylinders 5/6- same reason usdm mk4 guys dislike egr- it retains too much heat in the rear of the head- if you look at serious rb26 builds, they fit big
pipes to the rear of head where oem there are none- for heat evac fromrear of head to prevent warping, head gasket failure, etc etc.