The hammer chisel combination is never done straight on. The chisel is set L to the bolt and the hammer blow provides the torque. Chissel at one corner is no different than socket. [Other than the obvious ... the socket applies force on all six corners, while the chisel usually bites into the bolt head].

There is another socket which has spring loaded rods in it. As it is pushed on to the damaged bolt or nut some pins slide back and the remaining stay on the side and help transfer torque to what ever the shape of the bolt is. I dont think they are designed for impact wrench.

Salim

 

You could get a 15' pipe wrench long enough to break the bolt or the crank on it, but you won't be able to stop the motor from turning unless it's a manual trans car, the torque converter will spin regardless if it's in gear...

The chisel hammer method is your best option, and is effective, BUT, grinding/cutting the head off would work, and you could weld a smaller nut onto the front of what's left of the shaft of the crank bolt, and the remainder of the shaft of the crank bolt will easily be extracted that way as there won't be any torque on it when you remove the bolt head, which creates the bind that holds it in place, don't even worry about it--

If the chisel method doesn't work, that is another option for you--

Don't listen to the pipe wrench ideas, it's a waste of time unless your car is a manual--

 

jam a socket with extension onto the torque convertor bolt, and that will lock the flexplate from turning.

 

a mechanic finally got it off. used a snap-on twist socket.

 

That is just the usual bolt extractor found at any SEARS. But good to know for future reference.

 

woohooo....

 

cool, hope he didn't charge extra

 

That crap from SEARS sucks! It stripped one bolt I had to the point I had to cut the darn thing off. It was a Bolt-Out kit by craftsmen

 

Craftsman= $60 for 8 sockets

Snap-on= $60 each socket