there is answer for temperature fix for 1jz swap..

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=236548

 

Does anyone know which resistor it is for a 97 SC400?

 

This seems to still be such an issue, but I am confirming bypassing the resistor R109 on the back of the cluster worked for me on a 92 sc300 stock manual to get the tach working, maybe its because I had manual? Also with this thread adding the simple ground wire got my temp gauge working perfectly accurate...

Maybe I am a lucky one that bought the right year and model stuff to compliment mine, but honestly everything in my car works like OEM and this thread guided me, straightforward on each one I did.

What I am saying is if this didnt work for you, then you probably need to go another route and find the diff between your model and the model you are swapping with (aristo, chaser, year etc..) Or buy a 92 gauge and a soarer ecu or soemthing? (BTW I have the older soarer Auto ECU)

 

nevermind. I got it working. good luck to everyone else.

 

Ok, gonna revive this from the dead, AGAIN. The Grounding of the 24 pin on the IK2 plug did not work for me, its goes to first bar. Maybe it's because mine is a 92 SC4 w/ gte? 8 pages of try this and try that, and no fix yet. I am reluctant to try the resistor because of everyone reporting such a slow response time it's useless. Has anyone figured out a definate temp gauge fix?

 

Have you verified the temp with an aftermarket gauge? If not, I would put your thermostat back in and then monitor the temp gauge.

 

Well it has always worked that way. When I first got the car, it had a thermostat in it, and they guy said that the shop that did it for him was never able to figure out exactly how to get it to work on an SC4. It has always went to the first bar, that is where he said operating temp was and that it was correct just low on the dash. It has always been grounded, thats what that extra wire was in my picture that I posted on the other thread when I was asking about the IK2 plug. Remember how I said that I tried aftermarket fans and temps soared through the roof? Thats how I found out that it DIDNT work as he said, lol. I heard the the hiss when I got out of the car and saw the coolant dripping out of the overflow bottle and half my coolant had evaporated. It took a good 5 minutes to release all of the pressure from the cap. How I didn't blow a head gasket I have no idea. The next day an Autometer temp gauge was in and clutch fan was back on. It still read high, like crusing temps were close to 200 F, I took the thermostat out and now they reside at about 180. So to answer the question, yes I have verified it, w/ and w/out thermostat.

 

Wow dude, thanx so much for this post. It worked perfectly for me. I have a 1992 SC300 (automatic) with an automatic 1jz-gte swap.

 

wow this was helpful Thanks guys

 

Bringing this back from the dead....

For those of you that tried bypassing Resistor R109 on the back of the cluster and it did not work:

Make sure your BLACK tach signal wire on the IK1 plug (engine harness) matches to the same pin as your old harness location. If you need to, take a look at the female side (body harness) to see if your wire colors match up.

This IG- resistor bypassing has worked in every car that has converted from a cap/rotor to coilpacks igniter.

 

temp is an easy fix but what about tach still nothing ... everyone says resistor 109 and msd tach adapter idk .. has anyone verified a actual fix for this 2 work dont care if it reads off or not

 

The tach fix is 1 or the other, not both. I ran a MSD for years & worked fine. I later deleted it
& did the resistor bypass when I had my cluster redone.

 

Jumper the r73 resistor on a 95 sc300 cluster. Resistor is 3 bands of orange and 1 gold and brown in total color like the r109 resistor. This worked