Official Thread: Where's that damn noise coming from?
#16
Racer
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Ok the flapping of the seatbelts when the windows are down will happen no matter what... wind will hit them and that is acceptable.
My car has gone through stages of some creaks/rattles. Some fix themselves as time goes on. Otherwise, I find removing the weatherstripping gets rid of the buzz rattles, and then stuffing the cavities (rear panels/door panels) with polyester clumps will solve problems well enough. aside from that, keep in mind these are still exceptionally well-made vehicles.
My car has gone through stages of some creaks/rattles. Some fix themselves as time goes on. Otherwise, I find removing the weatherstripping gets rid of the buzz rattles, and then stuffing the cavities (rear panels/door panels) with polyester clumps will solve problems well enough. aside from that, keep in mind these are still exceptionally well-made vehicles.
#17
Lexus Test Driver
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Originally Posted by IronCobra
well replacing the driveshaft was only about $75.00 labor. I chose this because replacing the bearing can sometimes cause damage to the driveshaft during the process. I think the labor for that alone was around $450.00
so just to replace the bearing its 450 in labor? holy smokes! How much to buy the whole new driveshaft?
#18
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Pirate400
so just to replace the bearing its 450 in labor? holy smokes! How much to buy the whole new driveshaft?
The bearing alone is a bout $250 plus the labor.
#20
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Pirate400
so say that I dont fix it...whats gonna happen? will it just one day break and then I'm SOL?
#22
Lexus Test Driver
Driver's side wood panel, just to the left of the door handle. nasty buzz rattle probably inaudible on a stock exhaust, but with my rumble it rattles to no end while in the 2000-3500 range. I end up hitting it with my fist repeated times until it stops, only to have it come back 10 minutes later.
Rearview mirror rattles hard on full throttle acceleration through the upper RPM range, again, probably because of the exhaust.
My seatbelt doesn't flap around in the wind ALWAYS, sometimes it does, othertimes not at all. I find that putting the buckle somewheres in the middle of the belt (instead of letting it be at the bottom) and obviously tucking the rotating part back sometimes prevents any flappage.
Nasty rattle from my stock subwoofer/rear deck ANYTIME the sub hits. It's really annoying, and has increased as of late. I removed the third brake light cover altogether, and it still rattles. Leads me to believe that its something with the rear deck itself.
Driver's side door panel squeaks, right where your left knee would touch, just above the speaker. Also this panel seems very loose. It squeaks when I hit the slightest bump, so I end up pounding my knee against it much like I do for the wood trim until it stops, only to have it return in 10 minutes.
Lately I've picked up a buzz rattle coming from my climate control unit. Seems like its coming from just behind the defroster buttons. This one only comes up once in a while.
Thankfully I have no noises from the shifter area or that shotty cupholder lid.
Rearview mirror rattles hard on full throttle acceleration through the upper RPM range, again, probably because of the exhaust.
My seatbelt doesn't flap around in the wind ALWAYS, sometimes it does, othertimes not at all. I find that putting the buckle somewheres in the middle of the belt (instead of letting it be at the bottom) and obviously tucking the rotating part back sometimes prevents any flappage.
Nasty rattle from my stock subwoofer/rear deck ANYTIME the sub hits. It's really annoying, and has increased as of late. I removed the third brake light cover altogether, and it still rattles. Leads me to believe that its something with the rear deck itself.
Driver's side door panel squeaks, right where your left knee would touch, just above the speaker. Also this panel seems very loose. It squeaks when I hit the slightest bump, so I end up pounding my knee against it much like I do for the wood trim until it stops, only to have it return in 10 minutes.
Lately I've picked up a buzz rattle coming from my climate control unit. Seems like its coming from just behind the defroster buttons. This one only comes up once in a while.
Thankfully I have no noises from the shifter area or that shotty cupholder lid.
#23
Wind howling noise coming from interior vents at highway speed. (sounds like a ghost)
I fixed my sub rattle. I found out it was coming from my rear licence plate vibrating against the bumper, a little cardboard fixed that in 2 seconds
I fixed my sub rattle. I found out it was coming from my rear licence plate vibrating against the bumper, a little cardboard fixed that in 2 seconds
#24
Lexus Test Driver
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I had an idea on how to fix the moonroof panel and door panel from squeaking. I figured since it only squeaks because various parts should be moving against each other. We can take some sort of absorbent type material to line against the rubbing parts. I am going to try this out one day. I just cannot take the moonroof and door panel anymore. I always hit it while driving.
BTW, if you really can't take the moonroof sqeaking, just close that compartment up or open it a little bit.
BTW, if you really can't take the moonroof sqeaking, just close that compartment up or open it a little bit.
#25
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by NYLexSC
Nasty rattle from my stock subwoofer/rear deck ANYTIME the sub hits. It's really annoying, and has increased as of late. I removed the third brake light cover altogether, and it still rattles. Leads me to believe that its something with the rear deck itself.
Driver's side door panel squeaks, right where your left knee would touch, just above the speaker. Also this panel seems very loose. It squeaks when I hit the slightest bump, so I end up pounding my knee against it much like I do for the wood trim until it stops, only to have it return in 10 minutes.
Lately I've picked up a buzz rattle coming from my climate control unit. Seems like its coming from just behind the defroster buttons. This one only comes up once in a while.
Thankfully I have no noises from the shifter area or that shotty cupholder lid
#26
Lexus Fanatic
Originally Posted by southernsc
3rd brake light squeak- no subwoofer in stock place and the new sub in the trunk rattles it loose.
steering column - needs a good greasing of the gears.
steering column - needs a good greasing of the gears.
#27
Lexus suposed to be quiet and rattle free
I can`t complain on interior noises, I have wind noise though from driver side door on the freeway speed. Door gasket is $100, I just asked Friday, spendy....
For noise to occour there have to be vibration source, media to propagate it and noise "emmiter". F.e. tire with flat spot produce vibration, chasis transport it and dashboard resonate in frequency of tire producing noise.
Many of you modified car with aftermarket parts of different resonance freqency than OEM, like exhaust, suspension components, added unsprung weight, etc. Others just have car in bad shape, motor mounts, worn out suspension, bad bearings list go on....... That is many possible sources.
I can`t complain on interior noises, I have wind noise though from driver side door on the freeway speed. Door gasket is $100, I just asked Friday, spendy....
For noise to occour there have to be vibration source, media to propagate it and noise "emmiter". F.e. tire with flat spot produce vibration, chasis transport it and dashboard resonate in frequency of tire producing noise.
Many of you modified car with aftermarket parts of different resonance freqency than OEM, like exhaust, suspension components, added unsprung weight, etc. Others just have car in bad shape, motor mounts, worn out suspension, bad bearings list go on....... That is many possible sources.
#28
Lead Lap
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Soarer_25GTT
Errr... I've got the E-brake creak that I hear on a lot of other cars
#29
Keeper of the light
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by IronCobra
I paid $900 for the complete Driveshaft with bearing from IronToad.
The bearing alone is a bout $250 plus the labor.
The bearing alone is a bout $250 plus the labor.
If you do not fix this the vibration will wear the engine and tranny mounts and cost thousands more in parts and labor and eventually wear the output shaft on the tranny as well as the rear input shaft on the rear end.
This thread is funny though because it reminds me of the "complaints from other forums" thread where an exotic (I think Lambo forum) was like "wind noise above 210 mph, what to do?"
Last edited by O. L. T.; 12-27-05 at 06:39 PM.
#30
I had what I thought was a bad bearing in my drivetrain as well and the local Lexus repair shop I use said that the transmission mount on the SC400 compresses a lot over time and could be causing my noise (especially prevalent when "floating" the accelerator). I bought the mount (I think it was about $80.00) and changed it myself and it made a HUGE difference. I would highly recommend replacing the mount on any high-mileage SC400. Years later I decided to change the engine mounts as well (had to have those done by the shop) and that took virtually all the vibrations out. But I would just try the transmission mount first. My buddy at the Lexus shop tells me this is very common. Mine was compressed to like half of its original thickness.