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important 1JZ swap info learned

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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 01:50 PM
  #16  
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I dont think its the open temp.. it runs fine when i'm moving temp wise with thermostat, but the low speed stuff it just cant handle the lack of airflow and the heat output. I even switched out fan clutches with my non turbo 2JZ one, but didnt make a difference. Even sitting in traffic now that i think about it, with no thermostat, it will run warmer then usuall, but not boil into the tank when stopped with the engine off. No matter what i need a new radiator, with the broken fittings, but this gives me more a reason to get an upgraded one i guess.
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 02:12 PM
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hey that happen to my supra same thing so i changed the radiator but make sure you get a metal oem cause beleive it or not the platics will expand and leak in places you wont see when there are old so get a metal one and a thermostat from napa 180 and you will be fine thats what i did and fix all my problems and 50000 miles later still nice and cool with ac or not
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by AURELIOMK3
hey that happen to my supra same thing so i changed the radiator but make sure you get a metal oem cause beleive it or not the platics will expand and leak in places you wont see when there are old so get a metal one and a thermostat from napa 180 and you will be fine thats what i did and fix all my problems and 50000 miles later still nice and cool with ac or not
heck yeah! Any idea where i can get a OEM metal MKIV supra auto rad cheap?
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 02:36 PM
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well it you can get them from any auto parts store but if you want real cheap try a junk yard also
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 02:50 PM
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since your going in and out of the warm up procedures your timing and fuel tables are constantly altering. flush out the block really well and stick in a new oem thermostat with a new radiator and tell us how its working

Last edited by vipsoarer; Nov 16, 2005 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by vipsoarer
since your going in and out of the warm up procedures your timing and fuel tables are constantly altering. flush out the block really well and stick in a new oem thermostat with a new radiator and tell us how its working

Tell me about the heat issue... it SUCKS!! MPG goes anywhere from 17 to 25.. on the highway it runs so rich u can smell fuel in the car. My other rad in my other SC3 has 210k miles on it, so swapping it out for that is not an option. Guess i need a new one, let me add that to the list of things i cant afford this week that the car needs lol..

The system is fushed out very good, i put the hose to it for a while. No sludge or particles. When i dumped it today to take out the thermo, the water was crystal clear. The motor has 35k miles on it total since new in 1992.
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:05 PM
  #22  
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Get a boost gauge...there is no logical reason not to have one...could save you a couple grand one day.
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:07 PM
  #23  
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i used the stock radiator for 2 years most of which was at 1bar of boost and no problems at all..... this was out in hot *** houston, tx btw.....
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:09 PM
  #24  
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My stock sc300 rad is junk, ill take pics. All the necks are cracked, its corooded going all down the back of it, has 150k miles on it, and if u look inside its all scaley and nasty.. but hey, no way it can be bad
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:17 PM
  #25  
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yo chino was up you going to the meet tonite i might pass by to see what out there yo and hit me up about roxy 2marrow i am down
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:19 PM
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Antifreeze is not used to keep water from freezing as much as it is vital for proper cooling. Water sucks at dispensing heat, antifreeze changes temprature in the flash of a second. The 50/50 mix is essential for proper cooling. So first.............. quit doing what you're doing
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by O. L. T.
Antifreeze is not used to keep water from freezing as much as it is vital for proper cooling. Water sucks at dispensing heat, antifreeze changes temprature in the flash of a second. The 50/50 mix is essential for proper cooling. So first.............. quit doing what you're doing
how come i always read that waterwetter and water cools better then 50/50 antifreeze?
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:25 PM
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olt you got it backwards, water is better but antifreeze changes the freezing and boiling points. its like adding salt to boiling or freezing water. it increases the range of useability before it hits boiling and freezing points.

vj: hosing out the block wont get out the scale. you need to pressurize the system and use scale remover from an autoparts store. rust scale and build up from the sylicone in the water wetter are probably doing you some harm. water wetter is a mixed review item, if changed frequently enough it is much better at disipating heat but when it is not it buiilds up on the walls much faster than antifreeze. i would go back to a 50/50 since it is a street car. on the track be my guest to change it to wetter and some distilled h20
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by AURELIOMK3
yo chino was up you going to the meet tonite i might pass by to see what out there yo and hit me up about roxy 2marrow i am down
ill be at the meet.. if anything call the cell you know the #....

Originally Posted by VJ RC51
My stock sc300 rad is junk, ill take pics. All the necks are cracked, its corooded going all down the back of it, has 150k miles on it, and if u look inside its all scaley and nasty.. but hey, no way it can be bad
so maybe its YOUR radiator and not ALL sc300 n/a radiators.... I remember mteele's stock radiator worked fine as well as mine... my friend william is using the stock radiator right now and i havent heard about any cooling problems yet

btw- i have one of those metal radiators your looking for
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:30 PM
  #30  
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how much do u want for it? Well its just kind of a concern for all since we all have high miledge rads.. i wouldnt want someone swapping over to 1JZ and blow their motor cause of the lack of cooling in a 15yo radiator.
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