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Is 1" drop enough for a SC400

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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 12:02 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Bane
You know that cutting the spring changes the spring rate dramatically right?
That's right! It makes the springs stiffer and absorb the bounces less. However, with a good set of hi-performance shocks, and not the stock shocks which will wear out quickly, they will last a long time and provide a good ride. Also, when comparing to the sleeve-type coilovers such as Ground Control, Weapon-R, or some average priced coilover systems that don't provide the shortened shock bodies which could bottom-out, I believe using appropriate cut springs are always safer, because there're always some tensions even when the shocks are at their full height.
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 12:14 AM
  #17  
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I got the eibachs and tokico setup installed for a 1" drop. It has two finger gaps in the front and 1 finger gap in the rear with 18" rims. Gives me a nice conservative drop that I was looking for
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 07:53 AM
  #18  
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Cutting a spring makes it stiffer; ie in half = twice as stiff.
However, a shorter spring will allow the suspension to bottom out earlier.
Ghetto suspension 101.
That'll be $5 please for your lesson today.
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 04:05 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by SCV8
Cutting a spring makes it stiffer; ie in half = twice as stiff.
However, a shorter spring will allow the suspension to bottom out earlier.
Ghetto suspension 101.
That'll be $5 please for your lesson today.
Hah! hah! hah! I don't know how you came up with the phrase "twice as stiff" with cut springs. I tried to calculate the spring rate...but I still couldn't figure out that number. If you read carefully on my statements, I only cut 1/2 coil on hi-performance springs, so the springs still have about 1" in tension to compress in the shocks. I'm not a bone rattling driver, but only looking for a smooth but firm ride. I've been cutting springs and riding those cars for more than 6 years without any problems.

As regard to bottom-out problem, an appropriate cut springs will stay intact with the shocks better than average performance coilover systems without shortened shock bodies. With coilover systems that are lowered more than too much, the springs' top part will definitely have no tensions (which will bottom-out) when go over bumps or dips. That's dangerous! Who knows when the springs' top mount will fall out and bend the shock rod. I'm just kidding. Coilover systems never gave me that problem before, but I still prefer cut springs over coilovers.
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 04:21 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Cloud9
I got the eibachs and tokico setup installed for a 1" drop. It has two finger gaps in the front and 1 finger gap in the rear with 18" rims. Gives me a nice conservative drop that I was looking for
I don't know about the Eibach's gap, but I'm using Tanabe NF210 springs. The Tanabe is advertised as 1" front lowered and .4" rear lowered. However, I don't think that's the correct number because the rear seemed to sit like 1" lowered. All springs manufacterers could never tell the exact drop because the drop depends on other components of the suspension system such as bushings...etc. In fact, I've just replaced the whole front's lower & upper bushings from Daizen and the car sits about 1/4" lowered.

With your Eibach, you may start cutting only 1/2 front coil first and see how it looks like. Grind and smoothen the springs' last coil corner to prevent them to cut into the rubber top mounts. Remember to cut part of the bump-stop as in the instruction. Also, this is a tip for your bump-stop to last. Debur and grind the top of the bump-stop and open it up like the funnel as the original bump-stop's top. Doing this will smoothen the bump-stop and prevent it from breaking when its top touches the shock's upper washer.
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