I did a DIY brake pad replacement only on my 2000 RX300 (85,000 miles) about 25,000 miles ago. Pads were OEM. Just lately now every time after I'm driving awhile and apply my brakes, like coming off the freeway onto a exit, I get this grinding noise. It doesn't happen all the time though. Then there are times the brakes pulsate coming to a stop. These situations get more predominate the more miles I drive in one trip. Sometimes when they pulsate (I can feel it in the pedal), seems like the ABS is reacting to the pulses and makes it worse. Is this a new pad and rotor job this time around???

 

If you just did a pad replacement and not resurface the rotors.
Theres a possibility that there were heat spots or a rust ridge build-up on the rotors that just got worse.
This probably will ruin the pads you just put on.

I'd check the condition of both rotors and pads right away.

 

If it is pulsating when say you are coming off the off ramp of a highway, then there could be and issue with your rotors needing resurfacing.

The grinding I very much remember on several occasions in Mexico City coming down to the base of a hill and there being grinding right when I get to the end...that's more the ABS and sometimes a symptom of the brake fluid.

The other issue we've seen is where the vehicle gets under 5 mph, you stop, and then the vehicle lurches forward/fights you. That's an ABS issue alone and could be anything from an axle issue to one of the ABS sensors gone awry.

 

When I get onto the exit and apply the brakes to slow down I can already feel and hear the grinding, but, it doesn't happen all the time with the grinding. It seems the more I drive these situations can get worse. By the way, I'll be pulling a 16' aluminum boat this year. If I need to replace my rotors and pads, is there any recommendations on special pads and rotors with the extra load pulling a boat?

 

Lexus pads have a post that makes noise when the pads wear down, but you should not count on it. Pull the wheel off and examine both sides of the rotors. They should be fairly smooth. If there are ruts you have a problem.

The genuine pads are a bit noisy, but imho they are good product (wear, noise, braking etc). ... you can always try something different. The genuine rotors are slightly below good (imho), but they rust quickly. The rust is surface rust which wears off by braking, but that makes the brakes noisy after rain/car_wash.

My recommendation would be to stick with OEM and examine more frequently. Specially if you pull the boat one a week or less. Transmission care would be higher up in my list.

Salim

 

salim...I guess I'll replace the pads and new rotors this time around. As far as the transmission concerns, I drained and refilled several times the transmission and transfer case with Mobile 1 synthetic ATF last year and plan on doing it this year again. I learned that from some highly respected posters here. Now am looking forward to learn more about my brakes from you and more respected Lexus owners that I would like to name but I'm afraid I would miss someone. I know they know who they are. Lexmex, I believe recommended Akebono pads from another thread but I would like to know what rotors to use. Thanks everyone so far for responding.

 

I'll tell you one thing, the OEM pads were better than a lot of pads that I've run before (EBC, Hawk, Carbotech, Ferodo). The OEM pads are made by Akebono, who also makes the ProAct pads I'm using now. I am going to try later this year (or whenever the 3 year old Akebono pads I have now where down (they're not close yet), some Axxis Deluxe pads (I already have them).

There have been some other people here who have aftermarket rotors, and I'm sure they'll chime in. I was at one time going to get some Rotora slotted rotors, but my current rotors are handling fine (despite being machined a few times in Mexico). I'm not as keen on drilled rotors because it removes surface area and the slotted rotors and can do a good job at removing the heat.

 

Folks,

I put a four wheel set of ceramic pads on about three years ago (30k miles ago) along with resurfacing the factory rotors. Very happy, no more brake dust on the wheels and no brake chatter noise at all.

I had all the wheels off last week for tire rotation and the pads have plenty of life left. I'm now a believer in ceramic lining. It was just a couple of bucks more than regular lining, from Auto Zone, I think?

I have been getting a little front wheel pulsation lately after some heavy stop light to stop light street racing as I'm slowing down, just before I pop the drag parachute (lol).

Jerry

 

The pulsating is most definitely the rotors. The oem rotors are so to speak "beastly" I finally replaced the original one's at 138,000 miles because they finally warped pretty bad. They lasted pretty good because i have on several occasions overheated them, and the rotors took the abuse. But it started to pulsate, after about a few months so I decided it was about time to replace them. I would have resurfaced them but here in the northeast the salt isn't that kind. And if you look closely few of the ribs in the middle of the rotor were rusted through.

For the brake pads, I'd probably go with Akebono or OEM. Both are very well made and will perform for the money. It really just comes down to convenience and where you can get them the easiest/cheapest.

 

Well, I've decided to go for the rotors this next time around with brake pads. Today I did mostly city driving and the first 10 miles or so the brakes were fine, but it seems the farther I went today the rotors must have heated up and started to pulsate. Anybody try the slotted rotors or the rotors with the holes in them while using ceramic pads?

 

Update...ordered Power Stop cross drilled rotors and their Z16 ceramic pads. Noticed a few days ago the new LS460 comes with cross drilled rotors. Anyway, drove awhile yesterday in the rain, highway and city, and noticed virtually no pulsating in the brakes when stopping. The rain must have kept the rotors cool.

 

I do the work on my DIL's RX and at 140k +mi. the original rotors are quite smooth (mostly local miles and a little hilly) and have no pulsation And have NEVER been turned! My son replaces the pads about every 35-40+ k mi. and always uses Kragen-O'rielly good pads. I am very impressed with the quality of the original rotors. So.Cal. is easy on rotors as far as weather, but not traffic. My wife's '02 Camry has about 60k mi. on the original brakes (rotors and pads) and still in good shape, in spite of the fact it's mostly all local driving. The rotors are amazingly smooth. I also do not believe in turning rotors (I used to though) as long as they are not pulsating and there is not much grooving. I have a mic that I can check run-out with and if I ever have a rotor that is pulsating I'm going to check for run-out before I have them turned. I have had a small pulsation a couple of times in the Toyota and I tried what they say on the "Centric" site. They have changed the site instructions somewhat now but originally explained that pulsation is sometimes pad material that has transfered to the rotor when the brakes have been gotten quite warm from repeated or quick stops and then the brake held (as at a stop) for a little while. They say to get up to say 40 MPH and make a quick stop. Do that a couple or 3 times and it will remove the transfered material and eliminate the pulsation. I was highly skeptical but tried it... and it worked! DO NOT HOLD ON THE PEDAL after this or you only redeposit material on the rotor. I thought "snake oil!" when I read it but it made a believer out of me. They have changed the procedure directions to putting different pads in temporarily but it worked for me when they had the original directions there.

 

Well, I replaced the rotors and pads with Power Stop's crossed drilled rotors and ceramic pads. Now after having them warmed up for a 10-20 miles I still get some pulsating on braking, but not hard, coming to a stop. Thing is it doesn't happen all the time. Frustrating after spending big money for the new brake parts. Any suggestions? I didn't bleed out any old fluid, brake pedal feels fine though. Maybe I need new calipers? I noticed on the driver's front the old pads were wearing off to one side instead across the whole pad. Please help.

 

Let them "Bed" in for a couple hundred miles and see what happens.

As for the old pads wearing unevenly:
The slide pins should move freely. If not they will tend to hang up and **** to one side wearing the pad uneven.

Did you lube the slide pins and made sure they move?

 

I checked the slide pins on the calipers and they were good. I'll run them (pads and rotors) awhile yet and see if they 'bed' in. Maybe I'll even double check the pad free movement in the calipers in the rear brakes also. Thanks for replying.