Coolant Replacement FKS
Depending on the application, trapped air may cause the following: overheating, heater to not work properly or even coolant temperature sensor to misinterpret (sensing air bubbles instead of liquid).
But if there is not a specific procedure, then I would just burp out the system the traditional way. By using this, with the vehicle on ramps so that the radiator cap would at its highest point so trapped air can purge out, follow by squeezing the upper/lower radiator hose, and let it idle with the funnel kit Full for a while and call it a day. Some may turn the heater on to purge some of the old coolant or air out of the heater core, some may not do it.
But of course, if your way works, by all means continue to carry on.
But if there is not a specific procedure, then I would just burp out the system the traditional way. By using this, with the vehicle on ramps so that the radiator cap would at its highest point so trapped air can purge out, follow by squeezing the upper/lower radiator hose, and let it idle with the funnel kit Full for a while and call it a day. Some may turn the heater on to purge some of the old coolant or air out of the heater core, some may not do it.
But of course, if your way works, by all means continue to carry on.

If you aren't sure, look at your fluids. If they look grungy get them changed. All fluids go bad over time even if you don't put lots of miles on your car. Nobody wants that grungy crap in their nice car.
Some air pockets can be a pain in the rear. But how much volume are we talking about? One air bubble? five? Twenty? My local technician did a drain and fill I told him i would take care of the bubbles. Two weeks later I added 2 ounces of coolant. Three months later I checked the level. Everything was perfect. We are not doing a main bearing overhaul here. It's just coolant.
If you aren't sure, look at your fluids. If they look grungy get them changed. All fluids go bad over time even if you don't put lots of miles on your car. Nobody wants that grungy crap in their nice car.
If you aren't sure, look at your fluids. If they look grungy get them changed. All fluids go bad over time even if you don't put lots of miles on your car. Nobody wants that grungy crap in their nice car.
I am not going against you. I am just stating the probable causes. And just because it works on one vehicle, it does not necessarily will work on a different vehicle. We are all here to learn and what matters is the end results. If it works for you, continue to do what you are doing is all I am saying.
Depending on the application, trapped air may cause the following: overheating, heater to not work properly or even coolant temperature sensor to misinterpret (sensing air bubbles instead of liquid).
But if there is not a specific procedure, then I would just burp out the system the traditional way. By using this, with the vehicle on ramps so that the radiator cap would at its highest point so trapped air can purge out, follow by squeezing the upper/lower radiator hose, and let it idle with the funnel kit Full for a while and call it a day. Some may turn the heater on to purge some of the old coolant or air out of the heater core, some may not do it.
But of course, if your way works, by all means continue to carry on.
But if there is not a specific procedure, then I would just burp out the system the traditional way. By using this, with the vehicle on ramps so that the radiator cap would at its highest point so trapped air can purge out, follow by squeezing the upper/lower radiator hose, and let it idle with the funnel kit Full for a while and call it a day. Some may turn the heater on to purge some of the old coolant or air out of the heater core, some may not do it.
But of course, if your way works, by all means continue to carry on.

Just did a coolant drain and fill @63,000 miles. Coolant looked great, almost new.
I did not do the block drain that Viktor shows in his now gone video, but I got about 7 of the 9.5 quarts out and replaced. SLLC was $20/gal at local dealer....most online will no longer ship. So $40 and about 1 1/2 hours.
Took quite a while to get air out of the system. The upper hose is easy to get at but the lower hose is tough to get at so I removed all of the lower covers and getting them back on was the biggest pain. Take pics before you remove all of the bolts and plastic pins. Ran the heater and rev'ed the engine to remove most of the air.
I will check level in a day or two after I get some miles on it.
I did not do the block drain that Viktor shows in his now gone video, but I got about 7 of the 9.5 quarts out and replaced. SLLC was $20/gal at local dealer....most online will no longer ship. So $40 and about 1 1/2 hours.
Took quite a while to get air out of the system. The upper hose is easy to get at but the lower hose is tough to get at so I removed all of the lower covers and getting them back on was the biggest pain. Take pics before you remove all of the bolts and plastic pins. Ran the heater and rev'ed the engine to remove most of the air.
I will check level in a day or two after I get some miles on it.
I decided to do early just to see how it was. Cheap and easy and raining at home, so decided to just do it. I try to do my work on time or early if possible. Keep cars forever.
Next time may do the block drain if Viktor or CCN post the FKS coolant video.
Plugs are coming soon. Just picked up the gaskets for valve cover and for the throttle body. Have the plugs.
No rush on these since everyone seems to say that they can go 100k easily. I will probably do sometime this summer when the schedule is wide open for a day.
I am a little OCD. I never did block drain on any other car coolant change, so no worried mechanically.
Plugs are coming soon. Just picked up the gaskets for valve cover and for the throttle body. Have the plugs.
No rush on these since everyone seems to say that they can go 100k easily. I will probably do sometime this summer when the schedule is wide open for a day.
Plugs are coming soon. Just picked up the gaskets for valve cover and for the throttle body. Have the plugs.
No rush on these since everyone seems to say that they can go 100k easily. I will probably do sometime this summer when the schedule is wide open for a day.
2016-2022 Lexus RX350 Engine Coolant Drain And Fill Instructions
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o7a24stgvn...ions-.mp4?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o7a24stgvn...ions-.mp4?dl=0
Not sure that it matter much but worth the look.
thanks
I will take another look for the block drain next time I am in there. Have to watch the Viktor video again b/c I thought that the drain was toward the rear, but this pic looks like above the transmission where I went looking last time.
Not sure that it matter much but worth the look.
thanks
Not sure that it matter much but worth the look.
thanks







