I think it's even less than that 15min

 

I think some auto parts stores will even install a new battery for you if the access to it is not difficult. I have done this before with several cars. They are happy to get the sale.

 

On the other side of the coin, significant variance among units is in itself negative indicator. Batteries, like tire sets and many other items, are buy-one style purchases. The cost or hassle of trying multiple units makes it impractical. I'm fine with using a single sample evaluation to help with a buying decision.

On a related note, we put a Walmart Everstart Maxx battery in my son's Subaru yesterday. His current AutoZone Duralast Gold was 6+ years old and likely didn't have much life left, especially in a cold climate. The Everstart looks to be the near-identical battery to the current Duralast Gold and, at $88, is nearly half the price. The Project Farm evaluation made the selection easy. I used an OBDII battery-saver cable and a cheap jump starter to hold settings, and it worked like a champ. Save for doing all the work outside in a snowstorm and 25F temperature, it was very simple.

 

[QUOTE=bamalam;10984838]On the other side of the coin, significant variance among units is in itself negative indicator. Batteries, like tire sets and many other items, are buy-one style purchases. The cost or hassle of trying multiple units makes it impractical. I'm fine with using a single sample evaluation to help with a buying decision.

I trust the ratings in Consumer Reports which are based on multiple samples of each battery.

 

Followed RVRRX350’s step by step diy battery replacement instructions today. Everything was spot-on with no apparent issues.
Some on this thread mentioned using a computer memory device to save radio stations and other memory items, but others have stated when you remove the battery certain systems shut down, and using the memory device reopens some of those systems which may be problematic. (Damned if you do-Damned if you don’t)
So, I took the don’t use the memory saver method and things seem to be fine.
Thanks to all for the input.

 

I looked for the RVRRX350 you referenced, and not finding him.
Please post the instructions, or a direct link to them,
Thanks !

 

See post #14

 

Thanks! This post got me all worried about changing the battery, but still the same process as always.

But...what about the 450h? Anyone anticipate/experienced any issue there?

 

Hi guys, I am a Lexus Master Tech and I am working on a series of maintenance and repair videos that will cover the latest generation RX350.
Here is my video on how to replace the vehicle battery.
Please hit me up with any ideas/suggestions on what other stuff you would like to see in the future.
Thanks!

You Tube

 

When I did it, I did not have to remove the plastic cover, just slide the holding arm under it until the screw hole aligns to screew it back.
You were lucky to have a plastic handle on the battery. I did not and it was difficult and heavy to lift it off.
Plus my battery was in a sleeve that has a bit of insulation in it around its sides to keep the battery warm in the cold weather I guess.

And boy you had a lot of corrosion! The inside of my connectors were smooth without corrosion. And I did not notice a spark when you connected the negative like I did between the negative terminal and the connector when there was at 1mm of between them.

 

Thanks, Viktor. I notice you didn't mention a memory-saver connected to the OBDII port. Is use or disuse of those common practice in Lexus dealerships? Is there any reason you'd recommend not using one when changing the battery?

That was one dirty engine bay in that RX!

 

This annoying situation is semi-on topic. I decided to post here rather than start a new thread. I noticed some sulfation on the battery clamp last summer when my car was only 2 years old. I removed the clamp, did a thorough cleanup with solvent, repainted the corroded area with Rustoleum spray paint, and put it back together. Here I am only 8 months later, and it's back. Google can lead you to information like the following, but it doesn't really show a fix. Is there some spray gunk that will control this? https://www.crownbattery.com/news/su...ry-maintenance

 

It is caused by the battery acid seeping past the seal between the terminal and the case. Really the only way to fix it permanently is replacing the battery.

 

Thank you -- I don't like the answer, but I believe you..

 

We do not use those battery savers. No reason not to use one if you have one I guess, but we don't.
If you replace the battery quick enough, all the settings remain. Just set the clock afterwards and you are good to go.